trying to understand

New_Member_Name

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i have 1 gun that will only shoot about half of the bullets you put in it, take the ones it didnt fire, put them in another gun, and they'll fire? gunsmith said everythign looked fine to him... anyone else ever experience this?
 
well as far as ammo, doesnt really matter what kind it is, i've used WWB, magtec, etc. i have had this problem ever since i got the gun, its a 38 spl commanche2. i shot it tonite and 2nd round it started not firing. took the ammo out, put it in my ruger, shot wonderful. i took it back right after i bought this gun for the same thing and they had a gunsmith look at it and he said everything looked ok. i'm thinking about selling this thing at a pawn shop tomorrow.
 
We need some more info. At least, make and model of the firearm and exactly what you mean when you say it's not firing. It kind of sounds like you might be getting light primer strikes or something, but it's hard to really tell what's going on from your original post.
 
sorry about that. I didnt see your 2nd post originally.

I had an issue with my CCW when I got it. It would sometimes freeze up so to speak before I emptied the 5 round cylinder. needless to say this bothered me and after I got over the 5minute projection that the weapon was faulty, I learned that I needed to break it in. at least shooting a bunch of rounds helped me because it was crimping or jump crimping. since it was a 2"barrel and only 23.9oz weight the heavy .357 ammo was 'crimping'. I got thru it and then also changed ammo next time to be sure. that was just my personal experience. I had to rectify it because I couldn't stand having an element of doubt about whether it would fire. I have tested it at different times but it has never happened since switching ammo
 
It's either a weak mainspring, something gumming up the hammer drop action, a short firing pin or a gunked-up firing pin (the latter assumes it has a frame-mounted firing pin as opposed to a hammer-mounted in which case it ain't that).

A weak mainspring is the most likely.
 
its a 38 spl commanche2

http://www.comanche-firearms.com/category/1572-Comanche_Revolvers_38.aspx

Sorry to tell you but the Comanche is not a very high quality firearm.
What you seem to be describing is light strikes on the primer. You could try a second time in the Comanche to see if the rounds will fire then. Just make sure you wait 20 seconds after the failure to fire with the muzzle pointed down range before doing anything else.

There are a few reasons for light strikes. The easiest to fix is weak springs. Either have a gun smith swap out the springs or but a set of Wolff Springs for your gun and replace them yourself.

http://www.gunsprings.com/

A better fix would be selling your Comanche and buying a used S&W Model 10
 
I agree with what Jim March said, buy one more item to check.

Are the chambers clean and polished, and not too tight? If the cartrige was not fully seated it would take energy from the main spring to the hammer to seat the cartrige fully forward causing a lite strike on the primer.


"So your'e the man who shot Pretty Boy Floyd. How are you when it's toe to toe and someone is going to die....I'm used to that.... How about you? Better find another line of work Mr. Pervis". - John Dillinger
 
I learned that I needed to break it in. at least shooting a bunch of rounds helped me because it was crimping or jump crimping. since it was a 2"barrel and only 23.9oz weight the heavy .357 ammo was 'crimping'.
This is twice in a couple of days I've heard someone say this. It's not the correct terminology, but it's easy to understand. For anyone who doesn't understand, here's a rundown.

Revolver ammo is typically crimped, more specifically, with a roll crimp. The end case mouth is lightly rolled around in to the bullet, usually in to a crimp groove or cannelure. The end of the brass cartridge case physically grips the bullet.

This crimp does two things -- it holds the bullet in place for a moment so the pressure can build evenly and the bullet can begin it's forward motion at the proper time, and it also holds the bullets of the non-shooting cartridges in place during heavy recoil. (at the handloader bench, it does a third job... it removes the case mouth belling so that the rounds will chamber properly)

Bullets that are heavy resist motion. When you have a light(ish) handgun and heavy slugs, the recoil is stout and the entire handgun jumps backward toward the shooter when you discharge it. The other loaded rounds in the cylinder lurch backward as the handgun lurches backward under recoil. But the heavy slugs in those loaded rounds don't tend to want to move backwards with the recoil.

An object at rest tends to stay at rest until a force is acted upon it. So those bullets do move backward with the recoiling handgun, but they resist that movement at first.

When you don't have enough crimp on those rounds, those bullets then jump the crimp. They look as if they have jumped forward a small bit. In actuality, they simply tried to stay in one place while the handgun, it's cylinder, and all the cartridges in it lurched backward. But they will try to move and some will succeed on occasion. And with the next discharge, the same force will act upon the rounds that haven't yet been fired. So, after 3 shots from a 6-shot revolver, you've got three loaded rounds that have taken the recoil pounding three times and are trying to "jump crimp." If one of them does jump -- even by one millimeter, then the next discharge will move that bullet even more.

When the bullet has crawled forward enough to stick out of the cylinder face, it'll hang up the motion of the cylinder and tie up the revolver until you can push it backwards with force, out of the way.

For those that believe a revolver will never fail... just try shooting some ammo that jumps the crimp. It's a failure that you won't rectify during any kind of a fight.
 
I have a Taurus revolver (Yeah, I know) that had the same problem that the OP described.

Everything looked good, but it would only fire maybe half the time.

When I compared the amount that the firing pin protruded from the frame (wiht the trigger pulled, and hammer resting on the frame) to a S&W of similar design, it appeared that the firing pin wasn't protruding enough.

The problem was in the fit of the hammer to the frame in conjunction with the transfer bar. This fit is critical for reliable ignition, and should be fitted so that the weight of the hammer, when resting against the frame, puts enough force on the transfer bar to push the firing pin enough to fire the cartridge. It's a delicate balance, because if the hammer rests too much on the frame, the gun won't fire. If the hammer rests too much on the transfer bar, it can break the transfer bar.

Using a diamond hone, I lightly filed the part of the hammer that rests on the frame enough to allow the firing pin to protrude enough to fire the cartridges reliably. I also checked, while doing this, to be sure that the hammer wasn't resting all it's weight on the transfer bar by pulling the trigger, then watching to see if the hammer moved as I released the trigger.

I did this myself, but I'm pretty handy with tools and figuring things out. If someone isn't all that handy this way, or doesn't trust theirself enough to do it, then I'd suggest having a good gunsmith check this to see if it's the issue.

From reading the OP's posts, I'm thinking that this was a new gun when it started having problems. If that's true, then it's not likely to be a hammer spring. Gunked up? Maybe, but a good cleaning is easy to do, and will eliminate that possibility.

Daryl
 
Maybe not the gun, but the ammo.

New_Member_Name said:
trying to understand
i have 1 gun that will only shoot about half of the bullets you put in it, take the ones it didnt fire, put them in another gun, and they'll fire? gunsmith said everythign looked fine to him... anyone else ever experience this?
Buzzcook suggested it, but I will expand on the thought.

If it fires with the second try in another gun, try giving it a second try in the same gun.

Often, the first strike will seat an improperly seated primer. The second strike, then has a better chance at igniting the primer. And poor seating of primers is not limited to handloaded ammo. OEMs have quality control problems, too.

If it is the gun and it's a new gun, a call to the manufacturer will probably make it right.

You can make an estimate of how hard the firing pin is hitting the primer if you open the crane, put your finger in front of the firing pin and drop the hammer. It should sting just a little. Then try it with the other revolver, the one that reliably fires. How do they compare?

Lost Sheep.
 
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