Trying Rem Oil currently; Which grease or oil with it?
- Thread starter bricz75
- Start date
marine6680
New member
Anything but Rem oil...
That stuff is too thin for anything. It can work for wiping down a firearm after you handle it though.
Grease is always a good idea for slide rails on any pistol. Most any gun grease should be compatible.
That stuff is too thin for anything. It can work for wiping down a firearm after you handle it though.
Grease is always a good idea for slide rails on any pistol. Most any gun grease should be compatible.
Yes Rem oil is pretty thin. I used it like water when cleaning since it's so cheap. Until I lost that tiny bottle.
Popular current products you'll hear on the web are frog lube, slide glide, slip 2000.
Oils I have used - Clenzoil, Eezox, break free CLP Collector, Rem oil, Ballistol.
Greases: RIG gun grease, harbor freight automotive grease.
BREAKfree collector is thicker but i believe the focus is that it'll stay put longer to prevent rust, less focus on lubrication. If oils, I use Ballistol sice I still have some left and I find it tends to thicken a little and stays put. But these days I end up using any generic grease for semi auto pistols at metal-on metal contact points including rails, barrel lockup points at muzzle, hood, lugs. I save my oils for cleaning and rust prevention before I put them away. None of my guns have ever malfunctioned just because they were too dry, but they have rusted before.
Finally, you will always hear about the latest greatest product and most of them work well enough. If at a loss standard BREAKfree CLP will work, and any grease will likely stick around too. I sometimes get wrapped up in the latest and greatest until I remember that my guns have worked fine without.
Popular current products you'll hear on the web are frog lube, slide glide, slip 2000.
Oils I have used - Clenzoil, Eezox, break free CLP Collector, Rem oil, Ballistol.
Greases: RIG gun grease, harbor freight automotive grease.
BREAKfree collector is thicker but i believe the focus is that it'll stay put longer to prevent rust, less focus on lubrication. If oils, I use Ballistol sice I still have some left and I find it tends to thicken a little and stays put. But these days I end up using any generic grease for semi auto pistols at metal-on metal contact points including rails, barrel lockup points at muzzle, hood, lugs. I save my oils for cleaning and rust prevention before I put them away. None of my guns have ever malfunctioned just because they were too dry, but they have rusted before.
Finally, you will always hear about the latest greatest product and most of them work well enough. If at a loss standard BREAKfree CLP will work, and any grease will likely stick around too. I sometimes get wrapped up in the latest and greatest until I remember that my guns have worked fine without.
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sigarms228
New member
On my metal frame pistols I use Slide Glide medium grease and have had great results with it. I pulled out a pistol that I had not shot in over 3 years and the Slide Glide was still there like the day I put it on - does not dry out or harden.
i find rem-oil good for rust protection when storing firearms, not LONG-TERM, other than that, too thin for my semi autos. I think it is probably fine for revolvers where there isn't a lot of metal sliding across metal, but for semi pistol/rifle....I prefer others for its longevity
on the other hand, we have all probably become way to over concerned with lube because of marketing/hype, and I am sure rem-oil will probably keep a gun just as reliable as the next. but I can easily notice that a slide or bolt does not stay "wet" as long when using rem over some pricier brands like mpro, elite etc. now how important that is in the grand scheme of things, who knows. it is pretty well documented what does best for storage purposes, but as for functioning....anything that doesn't gum up or attract dirt is probably as good as the next
on the other hand, we have all probably become way to over concerned with lube because of marketing/hype, and I am sure rem-oil will probably keep a gun just as reliable as the next. but I can easily notice that a slide or bolt does not stay "wet" as long when using rem over some pricier brands like mpro, elite etc. now how important that is in the grand scheme of things, who knows. it is pretty well documented what does best for storage purposes, but as for functioning....anything that doesn't gum up or attract dirt is probably as good as the next
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marine6680
New member
Slip 2k Gun Lube is relatively cheap for a modern CLP... its $20-25 for a 16oz bottle. I have seen other new CLPs cost two to three times as much. (like Rand, MPro7, and Frog Lube)
I find that it is an excellent lube. It does not drain away, dry out, or get gummy... Breakfree CLP has done all of that to me before, several times.
I hear good things about Slip 2k grease as well. And I do always recommend grease for slide rails.
I find that it is an excellent lube. It does not drain away, dry out, or get gummy... Breakfree CLP has done all of that to me before, several times.
I hear good things about Slip 2k grease as well. And I do always recommend grease for slide rails.
johnwilliamson062
Moderator
Anything but rem oil. Really we aren't kidding. Throw it away. I'm serious.
I use RIG grease to wipe down my guns and given the price I couldn't be more happy. Absolutely no issues with it. Buy a small can for something like $5. That will last you decades. A sheepskin applicator cloth they sell is a couple bucks or you could make your own.
For insdie the gun I use CLP and grease of various brands overtime seing little difference. I think all boasted some sort of milspec standaard. o idea if that means anything though.
I use RIG grease to wipe down my guns and given the price I couldn't be more happy. Absolutely no issues with it. Buy a small can for something like $5. That will last you decades. A sheepskin applicator cloth they sell is a couple bucks or you could make your own.
For insdie the gun I use CLP and grease of various brands overtime seing little difference. I think all boasted some sort of milspec standaard. o idea if that means anything though.
They really aren't and the differences have been covered in several posts. Petrol/natural motor oil breaks down into some compounds that aren't very friendly in a few months time.
I've used only simple Mobil 1 10 weight on all my weapons for years including the slide rails of my 1911's.
It doesn't freeze, it doesn't cake up and it doesn't run all over where it's not suppose to. And it coats the metal very well.
The quart I'm using I bought over 6 years ago, so the saving over the name brands is well worth it.
I look at the so called gun oils like I do Rolex watches. You're paying more for the name than anything else.
It doesn't freeze, it doesn't cake up and it doesn't run all over where it's not suppose to. And it coats the metal very well.
The quart I'm using I bought over 6 years ago, so the saving over the name brands is well worth it.
I look at the so called gun oils like I do Rolex watches. You're paying more for the name than anything else.
marine6680
New member
Lets see...
Motor oil... it works well but smells, is full of chemicals that are poisonous and/or carcinogenic, leach through your skin when you touch it, and breaks down when exposed to the air.
or...
Slip 2k... No smell, is non-toxic, doesn't break down, works well, and is still cheap compared to every other reputable gun oil/CLP.
I'll stick with my Slip 2k.
I pay $20 for a 16oz bottle every few years... I don't see the savings of $10 spread out over those years worth the substantial downsides of motor oil.
I also use Lubriplate food grade oil and grease, it is some of the best oil, and THE BEST grease I have ever tried, but it is not as easy to find as Slip 2k. You have to look hard to find it from places other than resellers who sell small quantities at a big markup, or industrial size amounts. If you can find the stuff in the smaller size, you pay less than $20 for it. The grease can be found in 16oz cans, and the oil by the quart... And that will last you many years.
Motor oil... it works well but smells, is full of chemicals that are poisonous and/or carcinogenic, leach through your skin when you touch it, and breaks down when exposed to the air.
or...
Slip 2k... No smell, is non-toxic, doesn't break down, works well, and is still cheap compared to every other reputable gun oil/CLP.
I'll stick with my Slip 2k.
I pay $20 for a 16oz bottle every few years... I don't see the savings of $10 spread out over those years worth the substantial downsides of motor oil.
I also use Lubriplate food grade oil and grease, it is some of the best oil, and THE BEST grease I have ever tried, but it is not as easy to find as Slip 2k. You have to look hard to find it from places other than resellers who sell small quantities at a big markup, or industrial size amounts. If you can find the stuff in the smaller size, you pay less than $20 for it. The grease can be found in 16oz cans, and the oil by the quart... And that will last you many years.
I use straight Rem oil (or similar thin oils) on my semi-autos and have had no issues ever...in 50+ yrs. When you say it "seems" too light for the rails, does that mean the gun is not funtioning properly?
Like already posted, I agree that a lot of hype is out there about oils. Most of it a stab in the dark with little to zero long term empiracle evidence to back manufacturer claims. With that said, in the last few years I have been trying synthetic oils and liquid like synthetic grease on different guns to see what they offer. In reality I don't see much except the thin syn oil drys and leaves a slicker surface than straight dino oil types.
bc
Like already posted, I agree that a lot of hype is out there about oils. Most of it a stab in the dark with little to zero long term empiracle evidence to back manufacturer claims. With that said, in the last few years I have been trying synthetic oils and liquid like synthetic grease on different guns to see what they offer. In reality I don't see much except the thin syn oil drys and leaves a slicker surface than straight dino oil types.
bc
Better options to RemOil
I find it interesting that S&W is promoting the use of "Ballistol", as a lube for some of their firearms. That stuff has been around since the big war. .....
For long term surface protection, I use "Strong-Arm" lubricant. .....
Be Safe !!!
Took the words right out of my mouth. Years ago, I discovered the limitations of RemOil when I used it on my 1100 and in freezing weather, it would not function in semi-auto. Wound up giving it all away. ......
I find it interesting that S&W is promoting the use of "Ballistol", as a lube for some of their firearms. That stuff has been around since the big war. .....
For long term surface protection, I use "Strong-Arm" lubricant. .....
Be Safe !!!
WVMountaineer
New member
Kroil oil. Good stuff for anything from lube work on the rails to bore cleaning. Non harmful to leave on metals, won't freeze or gunk. Just good stuff. God Bless