Trimming the Barrel Model 700 Remington .270

S

stilllookin'

Inactive
I read that trimming an inch off and recrowning the barrel can improve accuracy by reducing flex upon firing. I have a mountain rifle with a lite barrel, and have noticed I don't get the accuracy at the range with repeated firing as with thicker, heavier barrels. I believe it's because the barrel heats up and flexes more than thicker barrels. My barrel is 22 inches. Anybody have any thoughts on this?
 
If the crown on your rifle is damaged, it would be a good idea to recrown it for sure.
Cutting one inch off the barrel to improve accuracy and "make the barrel stiffer" is a waste of time.

Dipper
 
I don't think 1" is going to do much for you in stiffness. A new crown may help accuracy, but if you're not getting the repeatability between shots, it's probably because that light barrel is heating up quickly. Since that barrel isn't freefloated, you may want to play with the pressure pad in the tip of the stock. It puts upward pressure on the barrel. Some remmy's I've played with liked the sporter barrel floated, some did not. You can relieve some of that upward pressure by sanding down that pad then test shoot it. Keep that up till you find a sweet spot. You may have to keep doing it till you completely float the barrel. If you decide to do this, keep in mind as you sand down that pad, your point of impact will change when shooting it.
 
trimming the barrel

The barrel is floated. After some thinking, I realized that it's the first shot that really counts when out deer hunting. Then, and at the range, for the first shot the barrel is cold and accurate every time. It just seems to be very difficult to repeat tight groups unless I let the barrel cool down significantly after each shot.
Incidentally, the notion to remove some from the barrel comes from the book Understanding Firearm Ballistics 6th Edition Rinker page 64.
By the way, thanks for the responses.
 
Last edited:
The Remington 700 Mountain Rifle used a #2 profile barrel, a little noodle-thin thing intended to keep weight down to a minimum, which it does. You will seldom get very good groups with a barrel like that. You really need to ask yourself which is more important, weight or target accuracy. As you said, the first shot out of the barrel is the one that counts in a hunting rifle. For example, I have a 7X57 rifle that shoots 1-1/2" groups, nothing to write home about. But I don't shoot animals for groups, I shoot to hit a kill zone approximately 8" in diameter, so I'm good out to 400-500 yds if needed. Your rifle is the same thing, "paper accuracy" is of little importance when hunting. As others have said, cutting 1" off the barrel will make little or no difference in your rifle's accuracy, and may actually affect it negatively. If you want better "paper accuracy", you can get a heavier barrel. If you want a lightweight rifle to carry, keep it like it is.
 
Thanks Folks. Regardless of what the book says (which, in the author's defence, is not stated as a must do, but as a can do considering many other variables) I will leave my gun the way it is.
 
I hate to hear of shortening barrels. Like those long barrels for the velocity, but not that it really matters that much.
 
bbl.

Sir;
Scorch is right; I've got a Remington 280 Mountain rifle and, yea, that bbl. is "noodle thin."
However, mine groups very well at 100 yds., under an inch. I know, as Scorch says, this is unusual but different guns are just that, different.
Cutting off you bbl won't do a thing for you - if you want to re-crown it you'll only loose about .010..
Is you bbl. floated - mine is. How about stock bedding, glass bed that recoil lug.
If you're just using this rifle for big game 1 1/2" groups are O.K.
Harry B.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top