I'm looking at a S&W 625-6, 4" barrel, that's obviously had some trigger work. I think I could get it for about $370, which isn't too bad. It's very smooth both SA and DA, and feels a bit "light" in DA. My question is, how do I tell if this was a job done right, or if someone was overly ambitious on the polishing or stonework, replaced springs, etc.? I know about making sure the hammer stays cocked back under thumb pressure, etc., and I guess I might have misfires if the spring was too light (but only after buying it, of course). But, what other things should I look for? I'm pretty sure the most I'd be able to pull off was the grips, and the shop doesn't know the history on this gun.
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Trigger work; how to tell good job from butcher job?
- Thread starter treeprof
- Start date
9mmepiphany
New member
the only sure way that i know of is to fire it.
if the spring is too light, it is an easy fix to replace the springs
if the spring is too light, it is an easy fix to replace the springs
To put it simply, you can't, and you may find out later that the work is no good.
Too many trigger jobs are achieved by polishing the heck out of everything and replacing or lightening springs with little knowledge about how the gun works.
CAUTION: Gun makers add an "edge" into their guns to make for reliable functioning under adverse conditions - dirt, cold, etc. ALL trigger jobs remove or lessen some of that edge. Think very carefully before you have trigger work done on a pistol that is being carried for serious purposes. A slicked up pistol that does not work is an awkward hammer without even a claw.
I have seen a slew of trigger jobs, some done by "name" pistolsmiths that ceased working because the case hardening was ground or polished off the hammer and trigger. I have also seen ones that felt good, until some actually tried to fire the gun and found that the mainspring (hammer spring) had been made so light it wouldn't set off the primer.
Some rules: If it is too light, especially on the DA, demand that you be allowed to test fire it. On the SA, cock the gun and try to force it off cock, then try to jar it off cock. If it does either, it is dangerous.
A customer once told me that he had sent his S&W revolver off to a "supersmith" for work. The gun comes back and the cylinder won't open. Back it goes. The gun comes back again and the rear sight is missing. Back it goes. Then the gun comes again, and this time the owner takes it out and tries to click some bowling pins to death. Long irate conversation with "supersmith" finally ends with the smith yelling, "Well, gawdammit it, you didn't tell me you wanted to SHOOT the damned thing" and slamming down the phone.
I fixed the gun at a cost of a new hammer, new trigger, new strain screw, and several new springs, plus labor. Then I did a trigger job which is still fine after 20 or so years. It isn't as light as the one by the "supersmith", but then I figured he just might want to shoot the damned thing.
Jim
Too many trigger jobs are achieved by polishing the heck out of everything and replacing or lightening springs with little knowledge about how the gun works.
CAUTION: Gun makers add an "edge" into their guns to make for reliable functioning under adverse conditions - dirt, cold, etc. ALL trigger jobs remove or lessen some of that edge. Think very carefully before you have trigger work done on a pistol that is being carried for serious purposes. A slicked up pistol that does not work is an awkward hammer without even a claw.
I have seen a slew of trigger jobs, some done by "name" pistolsmiths that ceased working because the case hardening was ground or polished off the hammer and trigger. I have also seen ones that felt good, until some actually tried to fire the gun and found that the mainspring (hammer spring) had been made so light it wouldn't set off the primer.
Some rules: If it is too light, especially on the DA, demand that you be allowed to test fire it. On the SA, cock the gun and try to force it off cock, then try to jar it off cock. If it does either, it is dangerous.
A customer once told me that he had sent his S&W revolver off to a "supersmith" for work. The gun comes back and the cylinder won't open. Back it goes. The gun comes back again and the rear sight is missing. Back it goes. Then the gun comes again, and this time the owner takes it out and tries to click some bowling pins to death. Long irate conversation with "supersmith" finally ends with the smith yelling, "Well, gawdammit it, you didn't tell me you wanted to SHOOT the damned thing" and slamming down the phone.
I fixed the gun at a cost of a new hammer, new trigger, new strain screw, and several new springs, plus labor. Then I did a trigger job which is still fine after 20 or so years. It isn't as light as the one by the "supersmith", but then I figured he just might want to shoot the damned thing.
Jim
Guy B. Meredith
New member
You can tell you have a bad job when the surface of the clockwork begins falling apart. Too much polishing by an incompetent smith takes off the surface hardening and the result is a very short life.
All - Thanks for the input. I'll pull what I can and look it over more closely. But it seems like I'm going to have to fire it first if I decide to buy. There's a range up the street from the shop, so maybe I can work it out. The thing's so clean and looks so little used that it makes me a bit leery that there is indeed something amiss.
Check for "push off" in SA mode. Cock the gun and apply pressure to the back of the hammer. If you can get it to slip off and drop, somebody stoned the hammer/trigger and it is junk.
Firing: shoot about 50 rounds DA mode and see if you get any light strike misfires. If so, it means somebody likely shaved the face of the strain screw and you aren't getting enough hammer spring force. New screw and hammer spring will fix it.
Rebound: fire in SA and release the trigger VERY slowly and see if it hangs up during the return stroke. That means the rebound spring is too light.
Firing: shoot about 50 rounds DA mode and see if you get any light strike misfires. If so, it means somebody likely shaved the face of the strain screw and you aren't getting enough hammer spring force. New screw and hammer spring will fix it.
Rebound: fire in SA and release the trigger VERY slowly and see if it hangs up during the return stroke. That means the rebound spring is too light.
"I have seen a slew of trigger jobs, some done by "name" pistolsmiths that ceased working because the case hardening was ground or polished off the hammer and trigger."
You absolutely need to avoid polishing any surface that is critical and has a lot of wear potential including (especially) the hammer/sear contact surfaces and the inside of the hammer/trigger that rides the boss pin.
Most "beauty" (pimp) jobs that polish the hammer or trigger sides are working on surfaces that have a lot of contact area against the frame and the contact is "incidental" in nature, not supportive. Going through the hardening on those surfaces isn't advisable, but probably doesn't affect gun performance or life significantly.
You absolutely need to avoid polishing any surface that is critical and has a lot of wear potential including (especially) the hammer/sear contact surfaces and the inside of the hammer/trigger that rides the boss pin.
Most "beauty" (pimp) jobs that polish the hammer or trigger sides are working on surfaces that have a lot of contact area against the frame and the contact is "incidental" in nature, not supportive. Going through the hardening on those surfaces isn't advisable, but probably doesn't affect gun performance or life significantly.
Hi, bountyh,
I should have made myself clearer. I was NOT talking about the sides of the hammer or trigger, I was talking about stoning and polishing the engagement surfaces, including the single action engagement notch.
As you say, polishing only the sides of the hammer and trigger will not usually cause problems even if the case hardening is cut through.
Jim
I should have made myself clearer. I was NOT talking about the sides of the hammer or trigger, I was talking about stoning and polishing the engagement surfaces, including the single action engagement notch.
As you say, polishing only the sides of the hammer and trigger will not usually cause problems even if the case hardening is cut through.
Jim