Trigger Spring Kits - K Frame

F

fisherman66

New member
I picked up an older Model 10-5 a couple months ago. It’s an old department gun that’s nickel plated in good condition with a hammer mounted firing pin. The trigger is smooth and clean feeling. The break is fine after a little stacking, but dang if it isn’t heavy. I’d guess it’s around 15 lbs. I’ve found a small handful of spring replacement out there. Wolff, Wilson and maybe Cylinder Slide (not sure if they are still offering). I’m hoping someone has some experience they are willing to share. I’ve been dry firing a few dozen clicks a night. It’s smooth, but the weight is quite high. Thanks.
 
I like the Wolf spring kits. I've never had a problem when switching to them. I'd try a 13 pound rebound spring and see if that fits your needs. I use 11 pound springs. You may want to stay with the factory mainspring but the reduced mainspring from Wolf will let you get a lighter pull and as long as it fires your primers it will be O.K.
 
A 'K' frame is a 'K' frame. Same innards. Same springs in 'L' and 'N' frames too.
You'll need a rebound spring housing tool too. Brownell's sells 'em for $19.99.
Totally makeable if you have a lathe though. Or you can bend a screwdriver or the like with a 1/8" shaft and cut a slot on the end. Look at the Brownell's one. It'll tell you everything you need to know about making one. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ls/s-w-rebound-slide-spring-tool-prod774.aspx
Wolff sells a package of 5 12 to 16 pound rebound springs for $9. Or $3.49 each or a 3 pack by weight for $7.49. https://www.gunsprings.com/SMITH & WESSON/K, L, & N FRAME/cID3/mID58/dID264
"...dang if it isn’t heavy..." Cop issue pieces are like that and for a reason.
 
Wolff sells a standard power mainspring that is smoother and a tad lighter than the standard S&W spring. The weights also vary a lot on the S&W mainsprings. The lighter rebound springs may cause you to short stroke the trigger. The light main springs may cause misfires, I use Federal primers to counter the light strike. You may have to experiment a little. You can use a screw driver to remove the rebound spring, probably easier to use a tool.
 
I have a 14# rebound springs in all my S&W revolvers and get no light strikes. That allows me to shoot any ammo or reload using any available primers.
 
Leave the mainspring alone.
You will get the most reduction changing out the trigger return spring. All you need to install it is a screwdriver. If you were doing dozens you MIGHT need a special tool.
Trigger return (rebound) springs have nothing to do with how hard the hammer strikes the primer.
 
Bill thank you for your correction.
I meant to say I never short stroke (outrun) the trigger using the 14# spring. I also have Wolff ribbed mainsprings in my K and L framed guns but I do use the standard duty Wolff mainspring. The reduced power version has given me problems with light hits.
 
Let-off weight for single action is dominated by the rebound spring. As noted, going too light may lead to trigger reset issues. The only way to tell is experimentation.

SA can be smoothed (vs. lightened) by thorough cleaning of the rebound slide tunnel and then light polishing of that tunnel. I do not polish the sides or bottom of the rebound slide, as it usually doesn't do much. Do not polish the top of the rebound slide.

I do not touch the SA sear engagement surfaces and do not recommend that anyone else do so.

Take up weight of the DA pull is dominated by the main spring. As noted, going too light may lead to light primer strikes, and as above, the only way to tell is by experimentation with your revolver and your loads

Smoothing of the DA take up involves thorough cleaning around the bosses and pins for the hammer and trigger, followed by light polishing. Ditto above re: the DA sear engagement surfaces.

I have often found that complaints of sluggish or gritty DA take up ended up being crud under the star or involving the ejector rod and tunnel. Clean these with solvent, dry, and lightly lube with oil.

I use the Wolfe spring kits and find them very well made.

I shouldn't have to say this (but will): there is an art to removing the side plate on a S&W DA revolver. Those who don't know how to do this risk damaging the side plate in a way that is not repairable (and, nowadays, not replaceable). If you uncertain about this, take your revolver to a good S&W gunsmith; it will be well worth the nominal cost. I highly recommend Greg Derr.
 
The rebound spring only affects the trigger pull not the power to the hammer. Disregard, already covered.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top