Trigger on a Remington 700 stiff

[The Kid]

Hey guys,

I have a Remington 700 ADL .30-06 that I got from a local pawn shop. It shoots satisfactorily.

First, when I was at the range, I found myself looking downrange w/ my scope squeezing on the trigger thinking, "break, Break, BREAK, WHY ISN"T THE TRIGGER BREAKING!?!?!" and having to reacquire the target because the trigger was not firing when I put what I thought should be the required amount of pressure on it. What do Remington 700 ADLs from the mid 80's come standard with in terms of pull poundage? Also, should I try to adjust this pull myself, take it to a smith, or get another trigger assembly completely? What are the consequences of messing up the trigger pull settings? Can I damage my rifle?

Secondly, I understand that Remington 700's during the mid 80's were recalled because they fired when you put them on safe. How can I know if my rifle was repaired as per Remington's instructions? Do I need to take it to a smith?

Thanks

 

[Nnobby45]

Model 700 trigger (Rem M721, 722, and Shilen)

One side of the trigger (the rear) has a single screw that controls trigger let off---creep. It's adjusted at the factory and shouldn't be adjusted. * see below

The other side of the trigger (front) has two screws. The bottom adusts weight of pull. Turn clockwise for heavier pull.

The top is the adjustment for over travel.

Follow these steps and you should be all right.

With action cocked, turn over travel screw in one turn or so, until pulling the trigger won't release the sear. Then, while pulling trigger, turn the screw counter clockwise slowly until sear is released. It should then be turned further CCW, ever so slightly, so there is ample clearance between the sear and trigger when trigger is pulled.

* If the trigger let off screw (that single one at the rear) has been tampered with, then turn the screw counter clockwise several turns and close the bolt, leaving the action cocked, then slowly turn this screw in until the sear is released. Now turn it back 1/4 turn or so.

Now adjust the pull weight (front bottom screw). I like 3-4 lb. on a hunting rifle. Now test the action to make sure it stays cocked. Dry fire enough to make sure the trigger release is clean. If not, turn the TOP over travel screw out a bit more.

If, after making the other adjustments, you want a lighter pull and further adjust the bottom front screw, BE SURE TO RETEST by closing the bolt smartly to make sure the striker remains cocked. Do this a number of times. When the rifle is reassembled in the stock, I like to give the butt a moderate rap on the floor to make sure it stays cocked for obvious safety reasons. When I get the trigger the way I want it, a light dab of nail polish keeps the screws secure.

Let me know how this works out. After final adjustment, make sure action is thoroughly tested to verify that action stays cocked by smartly closing the action a few times. As mentioned, I also like a rap on the floor to make sure it stays cocked.


The first time I followed those simple steps, I had no trouble getting a crisp, safe trigger pull of about 3 lb.

It may be that a complete trigger adjustment isn't necessary and you might even get by with simply adjusting the pull weight to your liking- as long as everything else is ok, but no telling what was done to the trigger on a pawn shop gun.

 

[Alleykat]

Squirt some lighter fluid into the trigger assembly, when you get the action removed from the stock. The fluid will clean the assembly and leave a lubricating residue....no further lube needed. As shown above, adjusting the Remmy trigger is really simple. You might just consider adjusting the bottom front screw counter-clockwise a little, just to get the pull weight to where you like it. I always recommend using a trigger pull gage and to not go below 2.5# on a factory Remmy trigger.

 

[kirbythegunsmith]

Details

You may very well be able to adjust your own trigger and clean out some aged lubricants and gunk, but at some time it will be advisable to have a proper gunsmith inspection of the trigger internal parts to ensure that no damage has occurred in previous lives with other owners.
No amount of spray, squirt, or other application of substance will substitute for a disassembled inspection. No outside force will enable the diagnosis of corrosion inside, and a worn sear edge cannot be verified by bouncing the gun butt.
I am not saying that the advice given is useless, just that there are limits to prognosis of all assemblies that are still assembled.
Nobody can look at the outside of a transmission and tell you how many parts are worn out, and a gun is no different in that respect.

Trigger assemblies do not normally have defects that cause them to fire when the safety is applied, but may have a defect that makes them fire when the safety is released; a worn sear edge, for instance.
If it was going to fire by just being on that worn edge, it would fire without needing the safety to intervene, so consider that applying the safety is less likely to push it over the edge than releasing that previously-applied safety.
A worn sear edge is something that can be repaired by a professional.

kirbythegunsmith