Tried asking about these in the reloading section... no answers...

M

Magnum Wheel Man

New member
how about cartridge hand reloaders, like Ideal combo tools that cast the bullet, & include all the functions to load a cartridge & fits into a saddle bag ???

I have become interested in these, & think it could add more enjoyment to my old single shot rifles, & black powder cartridge guns if I load for them on the range...

anyone played with, or use one of these regularly ??? thoughts ??? plusses & minuses
 
I've used the 310 tool since the early 60s. Still use one for 45-70 & 40-65. No real drawbacks. Very compact. If you use them the way they are intended they are just fine.
 
I have a Marlin Model 1892 rifle made about 1908. Caliber is .32 Long Colt or .32 Rimfire (courtesy of interchangeable firing pins).
I had difficulty some years ago finding a heeled bullet mould for the .32 Long Colt. Lyman last made them in the 1960s.
I found a very old Ideal reloading tool, such as you describe, marked for 32 L. The mould threw a heeled bullet of about 95 grains, when cast of pure lead.
Alas, someone years ago filed the top of the mould, where the two halves meet, apparently to bleed off trapped air during casting. I don't know if this worked, but it left a wide fin on each side the bullet while casting. I had to trim these fins off before use.
Later, I found a nearly identical Ideal tool that was nickel plated and in much better shape, sans the mould damage.
It casts a nice heeled bullet but such tools are a devil to use. Once hot enough for casting, the handles are likewise hotter than the hinges of Hades.
Thick leather gloves help, but affect dexterity.
About a year after finding this second tool, I purchased a like-new Lyman 299152 mould. I use it exclusively. The two reloading tools are good decorators.
These tools work fine for reloading, but they're not fast. The primer seater is cupped, to fit the convex primers of long ago. Seating a flat primer can work, or not. I found that Winchester primers worked best, CCI was the most troublesome to fully seat.
This is not an indictment of CCI primers, I'm just pointing out what worked and what didn't.
There is no powder measure with my old tools. I believe a proper black powder measure was supplied when you bought them, but after more than a century the measures are long gone. This is usually the case.
Both of my tools were soiled with a century of dust and gummy oil. I cleaned them with a plastic brush in hot, soapy water. This also removed any black powder fouling or dried lubricant that might be in the seating chamber. I dried them in my oven, at it's lowest setting (170 F) with the door cracked to allow moisture to escape.
I reoiled them very lightly. The washing removed a lot of crud and they looked better.
They're fun tools to play with, and could be useful at the range if you bring a means to measure powder. However, a modern hand tool that uses modern dies would be easier to use.
As an accompaniment to an old gun, though, these old tools are hard to beat.
I kept the damaged one in my office for many years. Even those who didn't own a gun found it fascinating, especially the bullet mould.
If you can find one that's in good shape, at a good price, get it.
 
Hello, Magnum Wheel Man..I posted reply in reload section on your question about these tools. One thing I did forget to say, if you get one of the early non-adjustable ones..these have a cylindrical extension with a semi-pointed end, with tiny hole in center. The hole is to bleed excess lube that is scraped off bullet as it seats. And that conical point serves as a case mouth expander! These non adj. ones are bullet specific..usually the one out of attatched mould or one like it. They also seat & crimp at same time. The later adj, tools had option of seating different bullets.
 
If you're really interested in the old combo handloading tools, I suggest you contact the Single Shot Exchange. (do a Google search)

I don't think the articles are online, but within the last 6 months, there was a well researched 2 or 3 part article about these. It covered all the major types and variations of them. It was really well done, but since I can't remember the author's name, I can't give him full credit... (Wonder if it was "Klinko" though?)

Anyway, it was a great read.

Tight groups,

Old No7
 
thanks for the replys guys... I was also looking at one in 45-70 with a 405 grain bullet mold... I thought would be fun to use with my Martini in that chambering... also have a Martini in 50-70 & a pair of rolling blocks one in 32-40, one in 40-65

I've seen a couple in 38 S&W, so far nothing in 32 S&W for the revolvers... but will have to watch them for sale on line for a while, & maybe buy a couple to play with if I can find one in the right calibers, & in good enough shape to use, & not priced out of my price range
 
The old tools are really only meant to be used with black powder as there is no case sizing station. The powder kept the bullet from seating deeper, and the crimp kept it from moving out. If you want one for smokeless, get a 310 tool with a sizing die, or get a separate sizing die where you just pound the brass flush into it for sizing.

The tapered exterior of the die is mostly used to remove the crimp. Don't try to bell the cartridge mouths too much, or you'll likely ruin the mouths of your brass pretty quickly. My .45 Colt ideal tool cats a bullet with a slightly beveled base to facilitate starting the bullet into the mouth of the case.
 
Lee handloader kits and molds

Try this, maybe: You can get a mold for about 25.00 and you can find the little Lee Handloader kits in the red plastic boxes from $20.00 and up in the new and used market. I have bought some on E-bay and some at gunshows. I bought a couple for reduced rates at gunshops.

I like to shoot 45-70 in a trapdoor carbine. You can cast your own or buy loose bullets. I have even loaded .454 roundball in 45-70 cases for a plinker load. Straight wall cases are easy to handle and load. Cheep if you work up your own loads.

With the little Lee kits, all you need is a mallet to tap the case in and out. Comes with powder measure, charge table, size die, capper and de-capper. All of it is in one neat little box that fits easily into your pack. Carry a can of FF black rifle powder, or Pyrodex CTG, or if you prefer, Hercules #7, some good caps, a handful of cases, your Lee kit, and you are ready to go to the range and shoot. You can reload your cases in seconds, right there at the shooting bench.

If you keep your loads conservative, and if you use a single-shot rifle and dont crimp, your cases last a long time.

The little Lee kits are good if you are only reloading a few at a time, and dont want to mess with the press, or if you need portability for going into the field.

I have a K98 (German) that I really like shoot and hunt with. I even have a little Lee kit for it. Usually I use my RCBS press for my 8mm loads, but occasionally I have used the Lee Handloader Kit for making up just a few plinks or speciality loads or other things when I am away from the press in the field or traveling.

About 30 years ago, I even bought a Lee Handloader Kit for .25 ACP ! That particular kit had no charge table in it. I used to use shotgun powder among other powders in those tiny little cartridges. I had some little Raven pistols and a few other odd pieces that I shot them in. There was a gun shop not far from the house that had a bunch of boxes of .25 FMJ loose bullets that no one wanted. I used to buy them up for a discounted rate and plink with them.

You can find these little kits in many, many different catridge applications. It might work for you.
 
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