Traditions 1851 Navy 44 cal

T

TGuidry

New member
Here they are. I've already dissassembled them down to the last screw. One at a time I might add in case I had a brain fart and couldn't put them back together.
The wedge was some what difficult to get out because there wasn't much sticking out of the other side. Also the cylinder of one of the revolvers had some silght resistance when removing it but only towards the end. I thinking a little emry cloth will correct that problem but I am open to suggestions.
I have not fired them yet because I have nothing to fire them with. I did that so I would fire them until I got familiar with them. I am going to Cabelas on Saturday to get the needed supplies.
 

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Welcome Mr. Guidry. I’m originally from Louisiana but have never heard of Parks, LA. I have family in Lafayette and see on a map that Parks is very near there.
I’m not sure what your concerns are regarding your B/P revolvers. Try to give more detail and you will get friendly advice on this forum. As for the stuck wedge do not tap on it with anything made of steel. A brass punch or even something made from wood will help remove them without causing damage. Best of luck with your new addiction.
 
I'm supposing you know this, but put the gun on half cock when you are taking the cylinder off the arbor. When you go to put it back together, put some bore butter on the arbor and give the cylinder a spin. Shouldn't bind. If it's binding when you got it all together, the wedge is probably too tight..
 
I use the edge of a house key to drift out the wedges that are flush. The keys are a fairly hard brass or bronze but won't damage the steel barrel.
 
Nice addition, T...

One possible reason for tight wedges and wedges that don't come very far through the barrel is that the pistols may be relatively un-fiddled with. Not fired much. Not disassembled often.

1851 Colt replica was the first pistol I ever owned. They hold a warm spot in my heart.
 
I use the sliding brass bolt from a gate lock, few touches with a filer made it slightly undersized to the wedge, taps the wedge out and doesn't mar anything.
 
wedges.

Yep on the bore butter or similar.
But first in 1/2 cock and assembled spin a few times check for any minute binding.
Make sure the wedge isn't too tight.
Then remove the barrel again spin for binding. This will leave some minute marks to show where the problem is.
But you said it only did it when almost off.
If that is only place and time, then I wouldn't worry much.
It's possible it just new and not worn in.
I bought a 1847 colt replica a couple months back as a kit.
Mine did not bind at all. But I still used some steel wool on the arbor to check for little gotchas. Also used a very fine honing stone to smooth the hand, bolt, trigger surfaces.
The release is smoother now.
But do have some fun shooting them!
 
When I was shooting my Remington 1858's in SASS competition, I used a copper anti-seize paste made by Wurth for automotive brake systems on the arbor and nipples. Made swapping cylinders on the fly easy....

Good stuff on the wedge too...
 
On a new gun the wedge should be just past flush. It usually only takes a few dis-assemblies to loosen up to where thumb pressure is all that's needed.
 
just got mine in the mail not long ago I am a fan of black powder so I could imagine that I am going to love it I already have a traditions black powder 50 cal rifle and now I have the 44 pistol I cant wait to fire it
 
The wedge on a Colt cone is there to hold the barrel on. The barrel should fit whether the wedge is hammered in or thumb pushed in.
It is not to adjust the cylinder gap.
If the cylinder gap changes with pressure on the wedge then the arbor is the wrong length. Read Pettifogger's articles on proper tuning of Colt style cap and ball guns.
 
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