Traded for an 1858

Oquirrh

New member
I been drawing down my collection of rimfires and a guy offered me Remington New Army (Pietta) for a rifle. I jumped at it. It's marked BD in a box, does that mean 1994? Yet another guy offered me a brass-framed Traditions Navy in 44 cal. I turned him down.

I don't know what put the scratch in the cylinder, but the lock tab hasn't been dragging for me. I shot it and while I don't like the looks of the Rem as much as the Colts, it seems more dependable.

What can I do about the scratch? Cold blue and get over it?

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BTW: I was just about to fire caps off on all the EMPTY cylinders to clear 'em out when I decided I should take the pictures first.
 
BD is 1994. The scratch was probably caused by letting the hammer down from half cock and then turning the cylinder til it locked. I bought a used 58 like that, doesn't bother me.
 
Yep, '94.

The part that caused the cylinder ring is called the bolt. Hawg's right about how it happened. Very common on single action revolvers, even the modern designs. Cold blue will work ok.
 
I say that you traded up.. :D

Like mykeal said, the cold bluing will work out fine to get rid of the scratch & if treated right you shouldn't have another issue of it again.
 
Thanks for the feedback

The gun appears to have been used only a few times and sights have never been dinked with. Shoots 6-7" low and 3" left with .457 balls (that's what I had). I got some .454s to see if it changes anything. After I settle on a load, I'll get the file out.

The spring tension (?) screw in the front of the grip was all the way in and the trigger was way stiff. I backed it all the way out, seems to have helped and still pops the caps. I'm going to shoot it heavy this weekend, then tear it down for a clean and polish--I've done some rifle triggers, but never a revolver.

The nipples are slightly 'shroomed--I'll probably order new (I think they are metric, generic pietta).

Any tuning tips (or links) for the '58?

Last :confused: item, when I ease the hammer down from half-cock -- trying to put it between cylinders for safety-- it gets stuck and won't go back to full cock. I have to take the cylinder out and let the hammer go all the way forward, then it releases what ever is stuck and I can cock it again.???
 
Tuning tips

Oquirrh, I got a couple things that might help. First back off your bolt/trigger spring screw about 1/4- no more than 1/2 turn. Bolt should snap up lightly not hard.(test w/ cyl out finger over bolt at halfcock pull to fullcock feel snap)
Then along with backing off mainspring screw so as it is not loose but snug and won't fall aout.
Check the top of trigger where it mates with sear or hammer, if it's rolled or burred lightly stone it. Maintain flat surface on top and remove rolled material.
Check Hammer's Bolt leg cam for burrs or raised material where the bolt leg slides up the hammer cam.
That's about all what I can think of off the top of my head from here.
Hope it helps,
SG

Rems Gotta Love um...
 
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