Top ejecting lever action throwing spent shell and new shell

T

texas724

Inactive
I have a top ejecting Rossi (I know, that's my first problem) .357. I run Blazer .38 spl through it (about 200 rounds so far), and everything is working well with the rifle with the exception that I have to be pretty careful with the action.

If I run the action too fast it spits out the brass that was just fired, and the new round that is being brought in. If I do the action to slow the fired brass seems to always find a good spot on my arm to land on.

Is there anything I can do to get this rifle running efficiently? I don't plan on doing any cowboy action shooting, but it would be nice to load my next round without having to worry about where it will end up. :mad::confused:
 
If you run it too fast, you launch the loaded round right off the cartridge elevator. It's just the way the '92 works. The problem is made worse, if you happen to unconsciously "bounce" the rifle in your arms, while working the action.

Heavier cartridges will help (brass-cased, not aluminum), but can't eliminate the problem entirely. Going to .357 may help, as well.

As for dropping it on your arm, when run slowly... that's also just the way things work. It's a top-eject firearm, and the ejected casings must obey gravity.
Again, brass-cased ammo should change the way it ejects, even if only slightly.
 
The carrier may be sticking and when you slam the lever down it makes it act like an ejection seat. My 44-40 doesn't do that. A lot of CAS shooters use them in .38 special and believe you me they run them faster than anybody else ever will.
 
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In my experience, aluminum cases (i.e., Blazer's) have a lot more "drag" when rubbing against action parts, because of the material's properties (as compared to steel or brass).

I seem to recall some kind of small print warning on Blazer boxes about what firearms are they are unsuitable for use in, but to tell the truth, it's been so many years since I've bought any Blazer ammo that I've now forgotten exactly what was printed.


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I really just take this rifle out for fun, and target shooting. I don't really want to run .357 through it all the time due to the cost. Could anyone recommend a good brass case .38 spl that runs good through their lever rifle?
 
I have had very good luck with Winchester White box .38 spl. I don't have a rifle like yours but the ammo has run very well through my Ruger SP 101.

They are brass cased and I usually pick them up at Wally world for around 35-40 dollars per hundred.
 
My Rossi 92 will do that occasionaly with .38 specials too. It seems like it might righted in working the lever smoothly and not bouncing the rifle as stated above. It does not do this with .357 magnum cases.

I reload all my .357/.38 so cannot help you with which factory ammo is better. These are fun little rifles. Good luck working the kinks out.
 
My 1892 in .357 mag double fed on me the other day. I was being too kind on the action. I found that turning the rifle on its side slightly to stop the hot brass hitting me when ejected worked just fine. No good for fast shooting but easy enough to run the rounds through. I use round flat nose lead bullets and they slide into the breech pretty well.
What is the difference in 38spcl and 357mag price? I'm in Australia and load my own but to buy .357 costs, $44 for 100 or $399 for 1000.
 
I also have an R92(actually pretty decent guns but wont compete with high end stuff and can't really be run at CAS levels without a lot of modding) and I work the action as fast as I can.
I have a bad habit(re: I feel like hot s***) of working the action as fast as I can and catching the spent cases AFTER the action is completely closed.
.38s are a pain because of how short they are, not so much the weight, from my perspective anyways. It's a matter of slowing down OR going with a way heavier bullet. I reload so I stick with .357Mag cases and I don't have that problem.

You CAN run round nose in a lever-action as long as it's not too pointy. If you do run round nose through your gun, it's on you! I'm not taking any responsibility!!
With that out of the way, I've run 200 of these
http://www.targetsportsusa.com/p-727-independence-38-special-130-grain-full-metal-jacket-ammunition.aspx
so far and I've got 100 more waiting for my next trip.
One of my local shops sells them for $20 for 50 rounds.

Also: I'm not sure why, but WalMart sometimes has the bulk packs of .38 +P that work REALLY well in these guns(well mine) and are cheaper than .357 but shoot pretty similarly.

BigBaz357: Around my neck of the woods(southern California), .38s usually go for about $18-25 for 50 rounds and .357 goes for about $22-30 for 50 rounds. If you shop around, you can usually find stuff for cheaper, like bulk packs.
 
" (I know, that's my first problem) "----texas724

Why did you discount the gun....right out of the chute....?
I have most any lever gun that has been made, and some are Rossi 92's and they work as well as most any other.
You also said you just take this rifle out for fun.....it doesn't look like you are having that much of it [fun].
I load almost everything I shoot [she shoots] and I run .38special and .357magnum thru all my levers on a regular basis.....no problem ! But over time I have learned the parameters of these types of guns [not yet an expert] and I have NEVER attempted to use a cheap aluminum case in one of them, so I can't comment other than I would never even think of doing such a thing. Even if someone gave me a few cases of them [aluminum], I would shoot them in something else. Most of the problems with lever guns.....and ESPECIALLY with the .357magnum calibers is........ammo choice. Simple as that. Accuracy in one..........now that is an entirely new ball game.
 
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