Hey all. So I bought my first ever gun the other day - a S&W M&P sport AR15. Took out it shooting, had a lot of fun. Now I am looking for tips on cleaning and care, which I don't know much about. I've found some good general information online but I want to make sure I am doing things right. I got some basic cleaning rods and some lubricant and solvent. Do I mostly just need to clean out the bore with solvent and then lubricate the bolt and bore after? What about the lower and the inside of the chamber? Thanks for the help as always.
Took my first ever rifle out yesterday... tips on cleaning and care?
- Thread starter Spacelord
- Start date
gunfighter48
New member
Clean the AR like you would any other rifle. Clean the bore with solvent, then run a patch with some oil on it thru the bore. Then run one move dry patch thru the bore. Clean the receiver, bolt, and carrier with solvent. I use a good gun oil to lube the receiver and BCG. The lower receiver will eventually get dirty and use solvent to clean it out. I lube the hammer and sear of the trigger group. I like spray cleaners because you can get into hard to reach places. Do a Google search on "cleaning AR15" and you fine a massive amount of info.
I only clean my AR about every third trip to the range. I usually shoot 100 - 200 rds each trip. I run a bore snake thru the bore a couple of times. Then I wipe down the bolt and carried and do a lite lube on it. Works for me!!
I only clean my AR about every third trip to the range. I usually shoot 100 - 200 rds each trip. I run a bore snake thru the bore a couple of times. Then I wipe down the bolt and carried and do a lite lube on it. Works for me!!
Ditto the advice about a good one piece cleaning rod. I use and recommend Dewey's one piece rods, with the appropriate attachments. You will also want a bore guide--it makes life so much easier!
Other stuff you will need:
A good double ended toothbrush. This will help in cleaning the upper receiver.
Properly sized patches. I use the GI patches available from Brownells. These are made to MIL-Standard, and are the best to use in my experience.
A few chamber brushes. I'd probably spring for the Dewey Chamber cleaning kit, also available from Brownell's. It doesn't cost much, and you have a fixed bronze rod that will do a good job.
While you're at it, get some big patches as well. These will help you sop up oil and solvent from the barrel extension (the place where the bolt itself locks up on the barrel/chamber face).
Pipe cleaners. If you break open the rifle and remove the bolt carrier group, you will see the end of the gas tube. Around the outside of the gas tube where it comes back into the upper receiver group are four holes. These are gas relief ports, and a pipe cleaner with solvent will remove the gunk and grime.
Remember when cleaning to run something down the buffer tube (receiver extension). It can stack u0p some dirt, as well.
Pay attention when you clean to the INSIDE of the bolt carrier where the bolt itself lives, as well as the "tail" of the bolt itself. Carbon loves to bake itself on there--after all, the gas that cycles the rifle comes down into there first, from the gas tube. To prevent a nightmare of cleaning, wipe it off with solvent after every trip to the range.
Finally, a HUGE portion of the problems with the AR family can be cured by keeping the chamber, barrel extension and bore clean, and remembering that the AR rifle loves to be run WET. Use a good oil after cleaning to put a heavy film on the bolt carrier group, and the bolt itself. Don't forget to put a drop on the locking lugs, and to spread it around. A drop on the inside of the charging handle where the carrier key rides won't hurt, and don't forget two drops of oil down the carrier key itself.
Congratulations on your new rifle! If you need any more help, just ask--there are tons of folks here to help.
Other stuff you will need:
A good double ended toothbrush. This will help in cleaning the upper receiver.
Properly sized patches. I use the GI patches available from Brownells. These are made to MIL-Standard, and are the best to use in my experience.
A few chamber brushes. I'd probably spring for the Dewey Chamber cleaning kit, also available from Brownell's. It doesn't cost much, and you have a fixed bronze rod that will do a good job.
While you're at it, get some big patches as well. These will help you sop up oil and solvent from the barrel extension (the place where the bolt itself locks up on the barrel/chamber face).
Pipe cleaners. If you break open the rifle and remove the bolt carrier group, you will see the end of the gas tube. Around the outside of the gas tube where it comes back into the upper receiver group are four holes. These are gas relief ports, and a pipe cleaner with solvent will remove the gunk and grime.
Remember when cleaning to run something down the buffer tube (receiver extension). It can stack u0p some dirt, as well.
Pay attention when you clean to the INSIDE of the bolt carrier where the bolt itself lives, as well as the "tail" of the bolt itself. Carbon loves to bake itself on there--after all, the gas that cycles the rifle comes down into there first, from the gas tube. To prevent a nightmare of cleaning, wipe it off with solvent after every trip to the range.
Finally, a HUGE portion of the problems with the AR family can be cured by keeping the chamber, barrel extension and bore clean, and remembering that the AR rifle loves to be run WET. Use a good oil after cleaning to put a heavy film on the bolt carrier group, and the bolt itself. Don't forget to put a drop on the locking lugs, and to spread it around. A drop on the inside of the charging handle where the carrier key rides won't hurt, and don't forget two drops of oil down the carrier key itself.
Congratulations on your new rifle! If you need any more help, just ask--there are tons of folks here to help.
I really like the BoreSnake for a quick and easy cleanup on the AR. A couple of passes and wipe the outside is good unless you burn a lot of ammo. Every 200 rounds or so clean the bore with good solvent, bore brush, and rod and soak the bolt in Hoppe's #9. Lube the gas rings with CLP when reassembling and grease the cam pin and bolt lugs a little. I put a small drop of RemLube on the trigger, disconnetor, and hammer pins in the lower and occassionaly a tiny dab of grease on the sear contact. Lots of folks don't use grease but my rifles don't go to the desert so I don't see any problem.
A 2 combat tour Iraq veteran said it's better to lube and clean every night than to not lube and not work when needed.
A 2 combat tour Iraq veteran said it's better to lube and clean every night than to not lube and not work when needed.
Don't forget to pay particular attention to the Star Chamber (breech)...where the bullet goes in 
Grit in there can make yer life MISERABLE! So ALWAYS close the Dust Cover the SECOND you stop firing.
Get in that habit now...that way if you ever find youself in a sandy/dirty area and yer on the go...you won't have a Jam-O-Matic.
Absolutely nothing worse than white sand in yer action...that stuff is EVIL.
Grit in there can make yer life MISERABLE! So ALWAYS close the Dust Cover the SECOND you stop firing.
Get in that habit now...that way if you ever find youself in a sandy/dirty area and yer on the go...you won't have a Jam-O-Matic.
Absolutely nothing worse than white sand in yer action...that stuff is EVIL.