To replace Marlin 39A stock or not?

jmstr

New member
Hello,

Would/could you live with a beautiful original 39A rifle stock that was about 1/8" low/short in the pistol grip area, where it meets the top/bottom tangs of the receiver? [it was over-sanded, but there is NO gap at the front, where it meets the body of the receiver. This just makes the metal stand 'proud'.]

Or would you spend over $400 on new stocks to make the wood edges meet the edges of the metal tang in that area, for a rifle you use once or twice a year [but said rifle would also be the last rifle you would ever sell or give up]?

Here is the situation:

I have a 1954 39A.
I didn't like the dingy, dinged-up buttstock, with some bad scratches and odd finish characteristics.

I took the time to remove it, remove finish, sand it down [lightly, I thought] and then put a couple of layers of Tru-Glo on it.

It came out very nice- and I didn't realize the stock had such good coloring in it. Sorry, no pics.

However, I now find myself with a beautiful stock on the rifle, and the pistol grip area is now about 1/8-3/16 shorter than the tangs on the receiver.

There is nothing I can do to build up wood there, and the wood does look good.

What I am wondering is everyone else's opinion: Should I just leave it alone [it looks beautiful and has no cracks] or should I try to track down a replacement stock and start over?

IF I go the replacement stock route, I expect it will cost me a few hundred dollars to get a stock with as good of wood grain/figuring.

As I said, I love this 39a, and it would be the last .22lr rifle I would own. If I could only keep one .22 rifle, this would be it [bye bye 5 little friends- nice to know you].

If I could only keep ONE rifle, I would probably keep this over anything else [in California here- who KNOWS what stupidity I will face], although I'd really hope to keep a centerfire rifle [can't decide on that one yet- probably M1 Garand] AND a rimfire rifle [No question- Marlin 39A].

In addition, I use rifles about 2 times a year- due to work, range distance, and my preference for handguns. I have over a dozen rifles, so I get this one out once every two years or so.

In other words, it would be more of a safe queen that I love and wouldn't kick off her throne, rather than something I use on a daily basis.

I will attempt to get some pictures on Friday afternoon, before my Granddaughter gets home and I have to put everything away.

But trust me, the wood pattern looks great. The following picture shows something like the quality of my stock, but it isn't quite as good looking and it isn't my stock:


marlin-rifle-parts-39.jpg
 
I'd spend $30 on an Acraglas kit and some masking tape and build it up. Easy to do than it sounds.
Gunparts wants $95.45 for a new walnut butt stock. No forends in stock. Boyds has those($31 or $42) but no stocks.
Bob's Gun Shop has some too. Semi-finished stocks start at $80. Matching forend is $80. www.gun-parts.com
Marlin won't even look at a 62 year old 39A.
 
If it were me....

I couldn't stand that.
I would keep my eyes peeled on Gunbroker and the Marlin Owners forums classifieds (marlinowners.com) for take-off stocks that could be used. --Either installed as-is or refinished with care taken not to remove wood in important places.

Or, if the cost of new wood and some shaping isn't a problem, there's always "defect" / "seconds" stocks:



Knotty Screwbean Mesquite, as part of an overall customization and conversion (pistol-grip 336W .30-30 to straight-grip .444 Marlin).
Even though Knotty Screwbean Mesquite is a good wood for stocks, the fact that it's full of knots means that it's a "low grade" wood.

Less than half the cost of "good" wood, and cut for the stock shape that I requested:
(Scope was temporary, and the butt plate is not finished.)

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Or...
'Quilted Maple' with a little defect on the driver's side:
(Another 336 project.)

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That one little defect (which only appeared during rough shaping on a duplicator) meant that a $400 stock was reduced in price by 80% -- with matching fore-end with no defects.
 

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With the grain direction and the color of the wood at the tang area, you may be able to make a clean slice and glue a piece of walnut on in that area, then just shape it to fit. One issue may be the Tru-Oil penetration, that may give you fit with glue. Because of that, I would be inclined to use an epoxy type glue that would not be impeded by the oil.
 
Many times I got wrapped up in wanting to better a firearms appearance in re-doing its stock. No more. These days I'll only improve a weapons function, reliability or scope. New stock or a duplicated one is a couple hundred bucks or better. My suggestion: Lightly sand the stock finish off. Swell the dents out by wrapping the stock a few rotations in cheese cloth. A long pour or dip in boiling water will raise most dents and to some degree bad scratches also. Leave the stocked wrapped till its cheese cloth has dried. May take a few times to swell them all. "Its a lot cheaper to re-do than buy new."
 
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