I recently picked up a project gun. A new old stock savage model 111 chambered in .22-250 Remington. It's a blind mag sporter barrel configuration without the accutrigger. Wood stock and top mounted bolt release.
Right out of the box it really was a tack driver.I am a rifle guy so I do not use this term lightly. For a cheap rifle it was shooting 5 shot 100 yard groups right a sub MOA. Considering these factors, I classify this as a tack driver within the realm of the sub 500 dollar guns. Anyways, the project I am undertaking is to make this gun a coyote/ predator gun. Basically all I wanted to do was put a different stock on it and dress up the bolt as well as barrel. Trigger job. Remove iron sights and put on a Nightforce. A mid to semi-long range coyote killer.
I swapped out the stock. Losing the cheaper press checkered wood stock and upgraded to a Boyd's featherweight thumbhole. I received the Boyd's stock and I needed to set it up in my mill to make it fit how I really wanted (another topic all in itself). In this new stock, the barrel is free floated and the barrel nut is even free floating as well. When in the stock it is sturdy. Really sturdy actually, no slop at all.
I guess my question is... is free floating necessary if the stock fits well as is and it shoots sweet? I almost feel in the grand scheme of things, too little of the stock is being supported, but just enough to make it sturdy. Recoil lug fit is good. Slightly touches the wood in the mortise I believe. Should I glass bed it to make more of the receiver touch the stock since so little of the (ugly savage) barrel nut and the actual barrel is free floating?
PS.. stock is not pillar bedded but it is a heavy laminated wood stock. Anyone who knows the building/ constriction trade... it's pretty much a good looking stock made out of a micro-lam. So pillar bedding really may not be needed.
Thanks in advance and feedback would be helpful,
SRE
Right out of the box it really was a tack driver.I am a rifle guy so I do not use this term lightly. For a cheap rifle it was shooting 5 shot 100 yard groups right a sub MOA. Considering these factors, I classify this as a tack driver within the realm of the sub 500 dollar guns. Anyways, the project I am undertaking is to make this gun a coyote/ predator gun. Basically all I wanted to do was put a different stock on it and dress up the bolt as well as barrel. Trigger job. Remove iron sights and put on a Nightforce. A mid to semi-long range coyote killer.
I swapped out the stock. Losing the cheaper press checkered wood stock and upgraded to a Boyd's featherweight thumbhole. I received the Boyd's stock and I needed to set it up in my mill to make it fit how I really wanted (another topic all in itself). In this new stock, the barrel is free floated and the barrel nut is even free floating as well. When in the stock it is sturdy. Really sturdy actually, no slop at all.
I guess my question is... is free floating necessary if the stock fits well as is and it shoots sweet? I almost feel in the grand scheme of things, too little of the stock is being supported, but just enough to make it sturdy. Recoil lug fit is good. Slightly touches the wood in the mortise I believe. Should I glass bed it to make more of the receiver touch the stock since so little of the (ugly savage) barrel nut and the actual barrel is free floating?
PS.. stock is not pillar bedded but it is a heavy laminated wood stock. Anyone who knows the building/ constriction trade... it's pretty much a good looking stock made out of a micro-lam. So pillar bedding really may not be needed.
Thanks in advance and feedback would be helpful,
SRE