To gate or not to gate?

RRR

New member
Converting my 36 Navy steel frame to centerfire. Now do a gate one or drop in? I like to shoot BP too so I am not sure what I want to do. Input is wellcome.
 
What I'd like to do with a Colt '51 Navy is get the Kirst drop in .38 Colt and cut out the rear of the Kirst to load from rear after cuttin' out the cap port to be a loading port.
If it were a Remington '58 Navy then I'd go with an R&D .38 Colt drop in...
I'm not sure but I did hear someone say one or the other Mfg. were not making the .38 Colt Conversions anymore. Anyone know if this is true?
 
Kirst Konverter

I bought a Kirst Konverter with gated ring in .38 caliber for my Colt 1851 Navy revolver. It fit right into the gun with no work whatsoever. (An earlier R&D cylinder that I had purchased from Brownell's did not fit either of two guns and was sent back.)
The gun seems to function normally, but I have not had the chance to fire it yet. Of course, it's awkward to load and unload, having to remove the wedge and barrel each time so it's tempting to grind out the frame to allow loading with the cylinder in the gun. It would be a neat conversion, but I don't think I have the skill to do this right.
Haven't decided on this yet, because I probably will not shoot the gun much.

- - Buckspen
 
Either get an inexpensive 51 to practice ion with Mr. Dremel... or give "Rifle" on here or Wayne on Voy.com/60048/ a holler and i am sure he'd be glad to help you out. He's an xlint Gunsmith will fit that port and reblue it for you too.

(footnote you could make the loading port with hand files also and reblue with Perma Blue Pasre...it's a cold blue but works better that the liquid stuff.)
 
Krist with the gate

I went with the gate on a SS Remington and also added the ejector in place of the loading lever- Easily switch back and forth-
Intend to get a blue Remington and use the same Krist with it-
While I am pretty used to doing odd stuff with a Dremel over the years I paid a fella to do it for me and re blue it-
Haven't decided whether to shoot 45LC cowboy or the weaker Schofields.
Might have to get a box of each.
 
I gotta say I do like the .45Schofield for accuracy and pleasure of firing with...don't get me wrong I love the .45Colt R&D Conv. in my Rogers&Spencer filled with 35gr of fffg BP and a 250gr soft lead boolit a pretty hot load even in the Dragoon it was a hot...I'll be tryin' ffg next go around.
First two shots fired out of five, Duelist style, I nailed two bean cans at 25yards ... The other three went into the OJ Carton.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/JUNE2009/25ydDead.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/JUNE2009/Downrange.jpg
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c277/Smokin_Gun/JUNE2009/DirtyGuns.jpg
 
I did a 38 SW con on a CVA 36 Navy brass frame years ago. Been smithing on and off for 20 year or so. I believe I will go with a gate(maybe) even with a gated con I can still shoot BP from time to time.
 
Smokin_Gun did you get the gun hot as in a really hot water bath before you used the liquid Perma? I have real good luck that way.
 
Going to gate. I figger less ware and tare then taking the barrel off ever time. NOW Kist or R&D? Also looking for the best price too.
 
I'm not sure but I did hear someone say one or the other Mfg. were not making the .38 Colt Conversions anymore. Anyone know if this is true?

Kirst still advertises the .38 LC for 51's on their website and Buffalo Arms still lists the R&D in .38 LC. Was it me I'd go with Kirst and get the ejector rod setup
 
I have looked at the Kirst gate system looks very cool.

Does R&D make a gate system? All I have seen from them is the system where you pull the whole cylinder off and take off the end cap then reload the cylinder and then put the gun back together.

Could some one link some various gated systems for me to understand this better.
 
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I did a 38 SW con on a CVA 36 Navy brass frame years ago. Been smithing on and off for 20 year or so. I believe I will go with a gate(maybe) even with a gated con I can still shoot BP from time to time.

How did the brass frame hold up? I have read that it's not recommended but I think if you kept the cylinder end play tight it would be OK.
 
madcratebuilder I shot it atlest 200-300 times did fine. The 38 smith it kinda weak. Now if I remember right the kit was 39.99 or 49.99 had a breach ring helded 6 rounds and it the time was only made for brass frames. Don't?can't recall where I got it from, shotgunnews maybe.?. Like I typed it was 20 years ago. Heck to give the ammo more kick I drilled out about nose added a few grains of powder and topped them off with small rifle primers LOL.
 
Smokin_Gun did you get the gun hot as in a really hot water bath before you used the liquid Perma? I have real good luck that way.

No RRR I din't do that...and used the Perma Blue Paste works better than the liquid seems to last longer. I'll try the hot water heating next time, and maybe a 170-200f oven heat. What would happen ifin ya gave one a bakin' after a preheated application? Would it keep longer ya think?
Gotta love BP Guns always somethin' new to try. Thanks for the tip RRR...:cool:
 
I bought my pair of 1860 armies because I wanted a BP pistol.

I have decided that if I want a metallic cartridge pistol i will just save up my money and buy a Ruger Black Hawk.

Maybe in 44mag.
 
I have decided that if I want a metallic cartridge pistol i will just save up my money and buy a Ruger Black Hawk.
That's cool but cartridge conversions are completely historically accurate and represent an interesting and oft-overlooked era in sixgun history. Some folks, like myself, are completely enamoured with them.
 
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