To 'freefloat' or not to 'freefloate'........

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Orion_VTOL

New member
Just wondering, is it really worth the money to put a 'freefloat' tube on an AR rifle? For the average person, not competing, just wanting to get the best accuracy. For instance:

An Olympic Arms upper, heavy barrel, 20"

Any advantages?

Thanks!
 
I don't see any advantage to it if you do not inted to compete in formal matches unless you intend to scope your rifle and want maxinum accuracy. Then, it might be worthwhile.
 
If somebody doesn't mind doing so, please explain why freefloting improves accuracy. How does it work??? I guess it's just the engineer in me... :rolleyes:
 
Freefloating works because it eliminates inconsistent stresses and strains on a rifle barrel. If you shoot several rounds with the barrel resting on something, then several with the barrel NOT resting on something, there will be some difference in the point of impact. Having the barrel in contact with something else also affects its vibration when fired. If a barrel vibrates the same way, every shot, it will be consistent. If the vibrations are altered from shot to shot, inconsistency in point of impact results.
 
To add a bit: In bolt-action rifles, as the barrel heats it also expands--in both length and diameter. If the wood of the fore-end is pressing against the barrel with any force, then the force will change with the heating. This will change the vibrations from shot to shot--and very little change is required to mess up groups.

FWIW, Art
 
Orion,
I have float tubes on all of my ARs. Also, they have 2 stage match triggers. That combination makes for a very accurate AR.

If you are looking for the first fix, I suggest a good trigger such as Compass Lake or Jewell. I have both types and both are pure magic on increasing the accuracy of the AR.
 
slickpuppy:

Do you have any URLs for Compass Lake or Jewell???


Orion:

I had a similar post on here asking about aftermarket upgrades for ARs. I was told the first thing that should be done was a trigger job, Jewell or JP Enterprises. Here is the web address for JP Enterprises: http://www.jpar15.com/

Hope that helps!!!
 
Art brought up a great point, and that's why I prefer to try a new rifle freefloated first when developing loads for it. Point of impact is consistent with a freefloated barrel (always using the same, good ammo, of course). I consider forend up-pressure to be a last resort measure to be used only when all else fails.
 
Thanks!

I appreciate the posts here. I know that an Hbar will not be as accurate as a bull barrel, but I'd still like to get the most out of this rifle. I'll get a free float tube, and a aftermarket trigger.
 
Art Eatman;

Why does my Huskvarna preffer pressure an inch back from the fore end? It shoots poorly free floate, but sub moa with the pressure point.
 
Jimshorts, I ain't Art Eatman, but I have a response for you. There are two things I would take a look at. First, maybe there is a bedding problem in the area of the action that needs attention, and second, maybe you need to do some new load development for the rifle in its free-floated state. If neither of these suggestions holds the answer, I will fall back on the addage I have been told: Some rifles just don't want to shoot with a free-floated barrel.

Maybe I've overlooked another possibility. Anyone??
 
jimshorts: I don't really and truly know "why", but my little wax-paper shim deal has always worked. That is, free float, and then build up a shim of kitchen wax paper so about a five-pound pull is required to push it into place.

My *guess* is that it works like the shock absorber on a car: It dampens the vibrations just enough such that there is better uniformity from shot to shot through a course of firing.

I certainly wouldn't disagree with River Rider about checking the bedding of the action, and working on loads. However, I've been loading one load for an '06 since 1950, in about six different rifles through the years, and I've always gotten good groups. Now, that's one powder charge all those years, different primers and several different brands and shapes of 150-grain bullets. Lazy Old Fart that I am, when I find something which works I tend to stay with it.

:), Art
 
Bottom line needed.......

SO, will it help a threaded, compensator installed, HBAR to use a free float tube to replace the standard handguards? Enough to be a benefit? Even if marginal, I really do prefer the look of a tube over the standard handguards....

Thanks again!
 
The primary benefit of a float tube on the M16/AR15 is that it allows shooting sling attachment on the tube rather than the barrel. If one wraps up very tightly in prone with a standard rifle the point of impact can shift dramatically. Since the tube does not bear on the barrel, this doesn't occur. A heavy barrel will accomplish a similar result since Service Rifle rules require the issue attachment point. On bolt rifles fore end pressure attenuates barrel vibration which is why Remington and Weatherby bed their sporter barrels near the forend. Heavy barrels are possessed of much less whip or vibration and so are usually free floated. I have owned Wby rifles which shot sub-MOA with the factory pressure until yours truly, in typical genius fashion, removed it. Group size sometimes doubled. If the rifle shoots, let it be.
 
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