Titegroup or WSF in a 40s&w

P

Poconolg

New member
Has anyone used these powders in a 40? I was given 2 lbs of each and wanted to know if anybody used them. I use X-treme 165 gr plated bullets with 7gr of Power Pistol now and they shoot good. I am always willing to try something new, who knows it may be better.
 
Both TG and "WST" work extremely well in a 40. Dunno about the WSF however but can say WST works great in my Glock and S&W Shield.
 
I use WSF in all my .45ACP loads and see no reason it would not work well in a .40 caliber also. Extremely clean.
 
Yes, I use a lot of TiteGroup in .40 S&W both with 165gr and 180gr bullets...its a very good powder, fast burning, low volume.

Because its low volume, you need to be careful with it...so you don't exceed max or overcharge ( or undercharge for that matter ). Make sure your press is tuned up ...and check your drops.
 
Titegroup is my go to powder for my wifes .40 loads. Runs just dandy. As Big Jim said though, mind the tiny charge size.
 
I'm a WST guy for .40 at the moment, but just ordered a pound of VV N320 to see what all the hype is about.

I use Titegroup for 9mm, but not .40.
 
Winchester Super Field WSF is the only powder I shoot in 40 S&W. I load mostly 165 FMJ-FP and 165 Rem Golden Sabers and 165 Speer Gold Dots. Shoots great in Glock 23 and Beretta Carbine. My loads run from 6.3-6.6 grains for velocities around 1000-1075 fps in the pistol. Fills the case well to avoid a possibility of a double charge. I'd highly recommend WSF.
 
I initially used Bullseye but stopped as I found it too smoky & sparky and actually came across an eyeglass set-screw in my second canister which pretty much put me off it entirely. I've done several thousand rounds of .40 in cast lead, plated, fmj, and jhp with between 3.8 and 4.7 grains of Titegroup and I've not had any problems. I prefer CCI 500 small pistol primers. Last 7000 rounds I've had only one miss fire. I prefer Federal and Remington cases and use Winchester brass for plinking rounds but have a primer hole reaming tool from Lyman to debur the WIN cases which often have a bur. I keep a failure collection and most of my cracked case failures are blazer brass. I suspect an inferior alloy and no longer reload Blazer brass. I typically don't use Aguila brass as I've found their tolerances to vary greatly which is especially evident in non-centered primer holes. On bullet weight I typically prefer 180 GR plated rounds. I also make my own 187 grain brass jacketed hollow points.
 
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