Tips for removing SP & GP cylinders?

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DanP

New member
Time for a more serious cleaning on both my GP & SP, want to remove the cylinders and dip them well.

While I'm at it probably not a bad idea to remove the star ejector (probably using the wrong term for the part that pushes the empties out) and clean the gunk in there.

I heard that it is supposed to be really simple, but the manual doesn't show it (or I'm blind as a bat).

Any quick tips or links appreciated!
 
I guess these are Ruger revolvers? I would recommend against trying to remove extractor. This is very tricky on a Colt or S&W and the star can be damaged very easily. I assume other DA revolvers would be as bad. Not really needed if you clean with a toothbrush and good solvent.
 
I always remove the crane and cylinder from a revolver when I clean it. A Smith & Wesson cylinder slips off the crane, but Colt cylinders remain attached, unless you're willing to horse around with the extraction system, which I'm normally not. I don't know whether Ruger cylinders remain attached or slip free of their cranes, but it shouldn't matter. I just let the cylinder and crane soak in a jar of Hoppe's #9 while I clean the barrel and frame, then scrub off the accumulated crud with a plastic-bristled brush. It's sometimes difficult to hold up the extractor to brush beneath it, so I make sure to hold the cylinder over the work bench rather than the floor in case I drop it with slippery fingers. The face of a cylinder sometimes requires work with a bronze-bristled brush, and it helps to use cotton swabs under the extractor--lots of cotton swabs.
 
The SP-101's cylinder will come off the crain once removed from the frame. The GP's will not. As I recall if you want to remove the extractor Brownells USED to offer a pronged too to do this along with a tool (also not now offered) to remove the cylinder from the crane. I can see getting the cylinder off the crane but as recommended above would leave the extractor alone.
 
I use to use a dental pick or pin punch to disassemble the yoke/crane from the cylinder. Mind you, you need to buy a special screwdriver to remove the nut that holds the cylinder assembly together once you do.
 
Hmm, for some reason I thought that this would be a fairly simple thing for Ruger GP & SPs...

It almost looks like if I bend the thingymabob while pulling on the dooda it would release.

Do the Ruger models that offer exchangeable cylinders (i.e. 45LC / ACP, .57 / 9mm) have an easier mechanism? They are advertised as "no tools needed".
 
Finally somebody who speaks my language.

You say thingabob and I know what you are saying. Doohickys, I know what those are too.

Sorry I was just interested in finding out how to take my cylinder off of the SP101 and got a chuckle out of the previous post.

Chris.:D
 
The swappable calibers would most likely all be single action, the cylinder is so easy to get out on a super black hawk I have yet to even read through the instructions properly.

Double action are a different monster, and I have both an sp101 and a gp100 and have no intentions of taking that thing a ma bob off the crane anytime in the near future unless there is a problem.

I am happy with how they clean up and when in the mood I try and oil the bearing the cylinder spins on.

All mine are stainless and I do not worry about the use marks on the front of the cylinder, I clean em but do not brush em off since I feel you are maybe more likely to remove metal getting the powder out of the pores of the stainless.

I use mine, they are all slicker than when I bought em. If I felt any grit or had a concern, I would see about asking in a gun shop with a live in gun smith who might be willing to show you for little to nothing. I try and buy stuff at these type shops as the free advice makes up for the price differential.
 
just de-lead the cylinder!

Just get yourself a Hoppes De-Leading Tool or Lewis Lead Remover. Follow directions and I am found Shooters Choice Lead Remover, quality cleaning patches and the De-Leading Tool is all that you need to keep your gun turning and firing. Disassembly has caused more problems that solved. See my post on the SP101. It doesn't take me but a few mintues to realize that that SP101 was probably toyed with.
 
Could someone please provide a link for the Lewis Lead Remover? I'd like to be able to research this device, and possibly buy it.
 
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q="Lewis+Lead+Remover"

I bought all my Lewis Lead Removers from Brownells. All this thing is is an alluminum rod that pulls a piece of screen through the bore (definition in a nut shell). It works great and it is cheap. There is no gimmick, gadget, it is simple. Some people use pieces of pot scrubber to do the same thing. Either one makes leading a non-issue. One or two passes through the bore which takes maybe a minute and the lead is gone.
 
GP-100 Cylinder Removal

I took the Ruger LE Armorer's class about 10 yrs ago. We worked on the GPs and I have the manual for it. At that time I mainly dealt with the old 'Six' series guns and in retirement I still do. I actually prefer them to the GP as a carry and utility piece because of the lesser weight and bulk. However I do own a very nice GP.

I do NOT recommend tht you do more than field strip the cylinder from the gun. To remove it from the crane arbor requires a special tool which is pretty close to unobtainable now. I had one custom made and it broke the first time I used it.

You are correct in wanting to keep the area under the extractor star clean and dry. That is vital. Otherwise you can do all the cleaning necessary with the cylinder in the gun and supported. Only if the cylinder gums up to the point it will not spin freely would I consider disassembly--and then I would send it off to the factory.

Personally I prefer the older guns because I COULD disassemble them completely if I wanted to, and then (blue) loc-tite the extractors in to avoid having them loosen in use. 'Progress' is relative. However the GPs are excellent guns and unlikely to give trouble in a lifetime of use. No need to be going inside them, really.
 
Robert Foote's Armorer experience

Good advice Robert. The ejector rods are not locktight in like ten years ago. The "KE-24" Lockwasher Bushing takes care of that and tightens that cylinder perfectly. While I like the Security Six very much (was issued one many years ago). I prefer the advancement in the GP/SP design. I gather you went thru the one week revolver school at the factory? Too many people tinker with their firearms. Everyone (gunsmiths included) that does their own work is responsible for their own work. The factories are very conscious of unauthorized tinkering. It amazes me how many people think they are smarter and more wiser then folks that build these things. :)
 
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