I have a Mauser K98 with a Timney trigger that was installed on it about 20 years ago. It is a definite improvement but the bolt requires considerable effort on the cocking stroke. I have emailed Timney but they have yet to get back to me. Any suggestions on how to adjust this?
Timney triggers
- Thread starter Scribe
- Start date
I may be way off here, but it sounds to me like your issue is the camming surfaces built into the bolt rather than anything to do with the trigger. The sear lever of the trigger simply rests on the bolt sear catch area on the bolthead, right? It cocks on opening which has nothing to do with the trigger until the bolt body is rotated downward where the bolt head is held by the sear again. See if you can lubricate or smooth out your camming surfaces.
brasscollector
New member
When I first acquired my 98 the cocking effort was heavier than I liked, or thought was correct. Disassembling the bolt revealed the firing pin was worn down in a couple of spots which was causing it to deflect and create more resistance. I bought a different one from Numrichs and the problem was solved.
This is a common problem if you install a trigger for a commercial 98 on a military 98. Military 98s have a notch in the bottom of the cocking piece to allow the sear to return to rest after a shot, commercial 98s don't. So what happens is a commercial 98 trigger's sear resets in that notch after the shot, getting caught in the notch in the cocking piece. Flat bottomed cocking pieces do not allow this because the sear doesn't rise far enough to reset.
So try this: clear the rifle, then dry fire it. Lift the bolt handle with the trigger pulled. See if this reduces the effort required. If it does, then you either replace the trigger or the cocking piece. Simple.
If the bolt lift is still hard, someone may have overheated the bolt when forging or replacing the bolt handle. If this is the case, Csenit can be used to re-harden the cam surfaces.
So try this: clear the rifle, then dry fire it. Lift the bolt handle with the trigger pulled. See if this reduces the effort required. If it does, then you either replace the trigger or the cocking piece. Simple.
If the bolt lift is still hard, someone may have overheated the bolt when forging or replacing the bolt handle. If this is the case, Csenit can be used to re-harden the cam surfaces.
I am just a rifle hobby guy since way back. I like to find out how to take it apart and improve accuracy. Years a go I found out one of the most needed tune ups with wood stocks... is a solid action to stock. If it moves at all you will have multiple grouping. Wood bedding swells, compresses and softens. My most recent purchase was a Savage 10T. The tooling was good for surface but I could have scraped paint on all the edges. I took an fine stone to them. Then took the bolt apart. Thanks to the internet help. burrs, sharp edges and bearing surfaces all needed some work. I used JB on some of the bearing surfaces. That smoothed them out.
