Timmney Trigger Problems - Model 70 Heavy Varmint

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Wyoredman

New member
Help! I have a Winchester Model 70 Heavy Varmint in .220 Swift. I have installed a Timney trigger.

The problem I am running into, is the front screw on the Timney trigger is hitting the aluminum bedding block in the H-S Precision stock.

The screw isn't allowing the stock to seat completely. It appears that I can remove a bit of the aluminum bedding block with a hand drill and everything will work.

Have any of you smith's run into the same problem? Will removing a bit of aluminum weaken the block?

Just trying to get some info before I go ahead and take the drill bit to it!

Thanks.
 
Hi. A lot of Timney's stuff needs a bit of stock removal. No drills though. File. And where the material will be coming off matters. A tiny bit of side won't, but top will.
 
Probably no need for power tools for aluminum
Just use a properly shaped file that will only remove what needs to be removed
 
If noting else, one could use a Dremel with a drum sander on it. They're only about 1/2" in dia. anyhow, so you can take like cuts on the aluminum until enough is removed that the screw will clear.

One could cut the head of the screw down a little, but you'll lose some of the socket on the end. If I remember right, they are allen screws. However, I'd say the bedding block is thick enough, that you'd be better off relieving material at it.
 
Question:

Why shouldn't I use a cordless drill and just make a small counter-sink hole in the aluminum block, just deep enough for the screw and nut to settle into? Using a bit just a shade larger than the nut?

Thanks again.
 
Well, you can, but what I'm sure the others, as I, think, is that you stand a chance of the bit bouncing and scratching your stock. Drills are hard to control, where a file or Dremel, for this purpose, are not. You might put a stone or small drum sander in the chuck, no more that 1/2" in diameter, or less, and do it with a drill. They wont tend to bounce off the work, so you can control the cut better. The main thing is to keep the tool where you want to remove material, and not allow it to walk off.
 
If a drilled hole will give you the needed clearance it could work, but I doubt you'd be able to hold the drill perpendicular to the block without touching the stock with the drill chuck

Since you can see the actual geometry, you may be able to do it with no problem.

I'm just going by the experience of doing damage with power tools when I could have used more patience and a file ;)
 
Mark it, clamp it drill it.....no sweat dude, that much aluminum wont be missed, but remeber to use a drill bit large enough to wiggle action out of the stock.....I think most these fellas cant picture your problem but I could see in the pick that the screw was gonna hit bedding...
Is the length of the factory screw necessary for total adjustment?,,??might look at its purpose fully, could snip it off a bit if it's unnecessarily long Wyoredman.post pics too
 
I drilled the bedding block so the screw would seat. All looks great.

I used my cordless and the appropriate bit. Had to "mill" (for use of a better term) the bedding block a bit with the drill. Works great.

I will get photo's when I have a chance. I didn't take any this weekend, because once I got the rifle together, I wanted to shoot it!

A foot-note, the Timney trigger feels good, but is fairly heavy (3.5#). It didn't come with adjustment instructions like the Timney I installed in my Savage.

I am looking on-line for adjustment directions for Winchester model 70 Timney triggers.

Thanks.
 
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