Timing and lock up

I

IAmTheWest

Inactive
Hi everybody! I'm new here to the forums, figured I might throw a question out there for my first post. So about a year ago, I traded my used S&W M&P 9mm for a S&W m65 with a 4 inch barrel in decent shape. Looking back on it now, well... Let's just say that it was a learning experience.

Anywho, the gun had little to no flame cutting, the cylinder had some rotational play, but locked up fine... Or so I thought. This is where the confusion begins.

The gun fires without issue, and locks up well before the hammer drops in DA, and SA. When I apply some drag to the cylinder and manually cycle it though, it JUST misses full lockup on all cylinders. I've been told that this is an issue that needs tribe fixed, but I've also read on the web that the drag test is unreliable and doesn't matter. I haven't noticed any shaving of lead...

So what gives? Can I still shoot this thing and not worry? Or should I send it back home for a tune up (which S&W states will run about 60 bucks)?

I did attempt a search but it didn't seem to turn up any answers. Maybe my Search fu is weak lol.
 
I don't have an answer to your question, but I didn't want that to stop me from welcoming you to The Firing Line.

Good luck getting the info you need.

Tom
 
When you release pressure on the cylinder, does it then click into full lockup? If it does, your revolver is just fine and you have nothing to worry about.

Opinions about the drag test vary, but I myself don't use it. IMHO, so long as the cylinder locks up properly when the gun is cycled very, very slowly with no drag on the cylinder, it's still OK. The key here, however, is that the action is being cycled very slow because if its done quickly the momentum of the cylinder will carry it into lockup and potentially mask timing problems.
 
The gun fires without issue, and locks up well before the hammer drops in DA, and SA. When I apply some drag to the cylinder and manually cycle it though, it JUST misses full lockup on all cylinders. I've been told that this is an issue that needs tribe fixed, but I've also read on the web that the drag test is unreliable and doesn't matter. I haven't noticed any shaving of lead...
Click to expand...

Why you manually draging(whats that mean), you said the gun works fine in DA/SA so why are you playing with it.

I do this to test the timing on my revolvers~ UNLOAD THE GUN
UNLOAD THE GUN
UNLOAD THE GUN
WARNED YOU

dry fire it while holding the trigger,(keep holding the trigger) turn the barrel towards your face, put a light in the cylinder, and see if the cylidner is lined up with the barrel, if not your timing is off.

If you manually play with the cylinder at this point, in some revolvers you can put the timing off and some are dead lock ups it doesn't do that.
 
I don't think the drag test is accurate. I think you can make most S&W's fail with it on one or more cylinders, yet the revolvers run fine.

I would shoot that revolver and never give it another thought.
 
The 65 is a fine revolver. Without holding the gun and testing it myself I couldn't say if the timing is off but from what you stated I'd guess it is okay. I'd use the link tmlinch provided.

Welcome to the forum.
 
I have a 65-2, and I do a bit of revolver smithing (smith and wesson only, they're easy to work on) I'd say your gun is fine to shoot, but you want to get that checked out by a qualified smith, of which I am not one. I'm of the shade tree variety gun smith. I do know how to properly time a revolver, and I would do it for you much cheaper than $60, but I have no ffl to accept shipment, nor any friendly relations with a ffl dealer. I'd say it's likely a worn hand or worn ratchet/star on the rear of the cylinder, easy to replace and fit. Best of luck to you.
 
Would it be better if it locked up using the drag test...well, it'd probably make you feel better about it...but in reality, unless it's shaving lead, or exhibits other accuracy destroying behavior, it's not a problem. Of the 26 revolvers (all Colts, Rugers, and 13 S&W's) in our family's possession, 4 have that same "problem". None are inaccurate, and none spit lead...all are used on a more or less regular basis. I'd not worry about it.

While it is possible to time a revolver cylinder/hand/bolt stop so accurately that there is no wiggle in the cylinder when it's at full cock, 99% of quality revolvers do exhibit some wiggle...it's not destructive to accuracy, unless excessive, and is necessary to allow the bullet to align with the forcing cone/barrel end. A good custom gunsmith takes pride in fitting to the no-wiggle standard, but it's not necessary for good accuracy.

I am curious about S&W charging you to check it out...they're pretty good about CS and this might fall into a warranty freebie category.

JMHO, Rod.
 
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I am curious about S&W charging you for checking it out...
Click to expand...

This was my thought also.

I bought a used M29 which was out of time at purchase. Sent it to S&W. They sent it back repaired, no charge.
 
Thanks for the replies, everyone! Nice to know that I can put my faith back in my old(er) gun again! I've tried a few of the other types of pistols: Glocks, Xd's, M&P's, 1911's, etc. and nothing strikes my fancy like a good wheel gun. (Maybe the 1911, but still not a wheelgun)

As to S&W's "awesome" CS, when I called I was met on the other end of the line by a somewhat stern sounding rep. who informed me that their lifetime warranty only included items that were manufactured from '89 on. Apparently my gun was made in '86, so I would have to pay for any repairs unless due to manufacturer defect. When I told him that I was going to wait, he then tried to convince me that it was going to cost A LOT more if I took it to a private gunsmith. Pretty bummed after that one.

I've been thinking about maybe customizing this one a bit, with a nice satin bead blast done by S&W, though it seemed pretty high at $250. Is that a fair price? Maybe I should just look at a GP100 (I've had my eye on one for a while now)?
 
Welcome to the forum "IAmTheWest."

Thanks for the info on the 1989 cut off date for lifetime repair. Unfortunately, all my Smiths predate that by quite a margine in some cases. Oh well.

I too have a S&W 65 and it was my duty gun for many years and it saved my bacon once. The only thing that I did to it was put a yellow plastic insert into the front sight as the stainless steel sight without the insert was difficult to see on a sunny day.

I bought mine in 1977 and I think that was pretty near the start of production for the model. Least ways it was the first one that I had ever seen and I had to have it at once. I still have it.
 
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S&W may or may not charge to repair a pre-1989 gun or a gun that was purchase secondhand depending on the circumstances. In many cases, S&W will go ahead and repair a gun for free even if it technically isn't covered under their warranty, but having a concrete cutoff date allows them some discretion should a gun be damaged or worn from neglect or abuse. I can tell you that they fixed a nonfunctioning decocker on my 1076, which was bought used in that condition, free of charge but YMMV.
 
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