Tikka 6.5X55

Cain R

New member
So far the new Tikka hasn't bowled me over with its accuracy. Right now the group is 1.75" @ 100yds. Ouch, my old M96 is much better @ .75-1.00" @ 100yds. This with RL-22 and Hornady 140gr A-Max. Going to check out the twist rate, maybe a shorter 120gr will be better. :(

How many of you go to the trouble to "break in" a barrel, you know, shoot a couple, clean down to bare metal with a copper cutter etc. For the most part I just go sight it in, practice and clean it after every range visit. So far all my new guns have shot very good out of the box with the right handloads.

With this Tikka I took the time and effort to fire, three rounds, clean,fire three, clean, etc Apparently this is the hot ticket to "shoot in" a new barrel. Then it took another 24 rounds to get the Tikka to shoot on paper @ 100yds. Granted this wasn't a handload specifically for the Tikka, but this recipe usually works very good in most 6.5's .75-1.0" groups,but 2-3" groups were the norm for the Tikka. The barrel must be super smooth though, after the 24 sight in shots the barrel had virtually zereo copper deposits, just a little in the throat. :)

Now to find a load that will shoot.
 
Tikka 6.5 loads

I also have a M695 Tikka - and assume UK and US models have same/ similar spec in terms of chamber and barrel dimensions.

Over here Tikka is probably the number one choice with professional stalkers and has a solid reputation for accuracy.

That said, I was quite disappointed with my rifle for the first few months. Previously effective reloads performed very poorly and I was working through every factory load I could get my hands on - without much success.

On checking chamber dimension with a Stoney Point comparator and going for the 'usual ' two thou back off, my favourite Hornady 129grn soft point was barely in the case!

However, I found that Norma Bana 140grn Match rounds grouped sub half inch consistantly and that PMC Silver line - with 140grn Gamekings did the same. On measuring these, I found both the be similar OAL ( using .25 Guage from SP ). But, gosh they do look short! On a hunch, I adjusted my previous reload - Reloader 19 47.2 grains, CCI Lrg Rifle primer and R-P cases, to the same OAL ( 63.07 mm WITH .25 guage ). Bingo - .340 inch groups - averaged over ten three shot groups. TRY AT OWN RISK

Pro Chrono tells me these are clocking 2590 fps ( average ).

I am working on a loading for 140grn A max - will let you know how it goes.
 
"Now to find a load that will shoot."

That's the ticket. Every rifle is an individual unto itself. Every rifle has its own ammo preferences.

There are also several good resources for advice on how to accurize a rifle for zero dollars, or close to it (including searches here at TFL). Some suggestions I've seen in the past include:

-check tightness of the screws that hold the rigle into the stock. Too tight or too loose can affect accuracy.

-Check headspace, as Oakleaf demonstrated so well.

-Shim the front of the stock to add a bit of up-pressure to the barrel.

-Opposite of that: free-float the barrel.

But trying different loads/ammo comes first.
 
>...maybe a shorter 120gr will be better.

Once you check the twist, if it's 1-in-8 or faster, I doubt you'll get _better_ accuracy from a _lighter_ and shorter bullet. You might even try the 160 gr roundnoses or the 155 gr BTHPs from Sierra (the 155s only if you have 1-in-8 or faster twist).

Bruegger out.
 
Bruegger's probably hit on the problem.

I'm betting that this is a twist issue.

The old M96 rifles had a pretty fast twist because they were originally designed to stabilize 160 grain round nose bullets.

I'll bet the Tikka has a much slower twist. Try using lighter bullets and loading them for a little higher velocity than in the M96.

Now you're getting to the reason that I don't have any modern 6.5x55 rifles. Because I don't want to have to segregate ammunition between rifles that are the same caliber. You know--"Ok, is this the 6.5x55 ammo that I loaded for my Tikka, or the stuff that's safe to shoot in my 100 year old Model 96????"
 
Tikka says the rate twist is 1 in 8". Hornady says their 140gr A-Max is optimal in a 1 in 7.5" so, in theory the A-Max should do alright. Going to load some after the Oiler's game and test them out tomorrow.:D
 
140grn A max

Hello again.

I am just back from Brookshill Ranges - Shrewsbury. Managed to call in there for an 'extended lunch' whilst in the Midlands on business.

Firstly, as a new guy, can I check that reloading discussion as such is OK in this area, as I note there is a specific reload section? I don't want to antagonise the other members etc.

I was at the range to specifically test a new batch of reloads using H4831SC powder.

ALL OAL MEASUREMENTS VIA STONEY POINT COMPARATOR WITH .25 GUAGE

1. 129grn Hornady OAL 63.07 with 46.5 grains. Nice circa 1/2" group - more uniform than standard R19 reload, but little in it in practical accuracy terms. However, group was about one inch lower - so assume losing out on velocity. Plan to try working up the powder charge.

2. 140 Grain A Max. Previously found this to be a very demanding bullet to reload - but with the promise of excellent results. My feeling is that the long bearing surface affects the ogive/ throat relationship - making OAL critical to pressure generation. I have flattened and blown more primers with this bullet ( in several calibres ) than anything else.
Tried 46grains to OAL 63.07mm, no chronograph to hand.

My rifle is fitted with a muzzel brake - which is great - but can distort 'at the shoulder pressure guage' feelings! I got the impression that the load was running hot. However, there were no pressure signs on the case - primer OK, headstamp not flattened, no ejector impression etc etc. Playing it safe, I stopped at four rounds.

On collecting the target ( 100 yds ), I discovered the proverbial Hornady hole - one wragged hole - with just sufficient dispersion to detect four distinct bullet marks.

Loath to mess, but I will try backing off a few tenths of a grain and possibly setting the OAL back a little. Next batch will go over a chrono as a double check.

In the UK deer stalkers must use bullets specifically designed to expand on live targets. However, the bullets are classed as Section 5 - which includes machine guns, poison bullets etc. A special authority is granted to acquire these bullets if you have deer stalking on your certificate. However, purchases are entered on your FAC and you must collect in person - illegal to post etc.
However, match bullets are 'unrestricted'. I have heard many comments that A max etc perform very well on deer ( not in the UK! ) - do you have any experience of this?

Finally, barrel break-in. I regard it as essential. Brownings tend to be very finely finished internally and respond to three or four shots. My Tikka, whilst having a highly regarded barrel proved to be rather rough internally. In these circumstances the barrel gets several passes with JB compound, thoroughly cleaned and one round of quality jacketed ammo - Sierra etc fired. It is then recleaned. I use a very tight patch to judge the degree of 'polish'. The Tikka got two dozen shots in this way before I attempted for a group. Some 80 rounds later, it is still slowly improving. I monitor progress by the degree / rate at which fouling accumulates. My 30-06 Browning never required more than three patches soaked in solvent or five miniutes with Forrest Bore Foam to come spotless. My Tikka and REmington run to about a dozen patches and a good thirty minute soak to get the same result.

Regards
:p
 
Hey Oakleaf. Sounds like your gun laws are actually worse than we have here in Canada, living nest to the US really makes me drool sometimes!!:(

Tried more work with the 140gr A-Max with RL-22, worked up and down with near max loadings and tried about 15 different combinations, Having a 100yd range in your backyard really helps on load development.:D, so far none have come close to matching my old Swede. :(

Tomorrow will try some loads with IMR-4350 and the last RL-19 powder I have on hand. The nearest Alliant dealer is over 150 km's away (one way) and seems to be getting harder to find.

The muzzle break, its not factory is it? Had one on another old Swede, but the bloody muzzle blast and noise was so bad I ditched the whole rifle. If the A-Max dosn't work out I'm going to break out the last of my Nosler 140 gr. Partitions.

I really want to use 140's for the big Whitetail we have around here, after all 120's are great for Coyotes but I think just too light for deer.
 
Remain very interested to hear how A max perform on deer - if you get the load to work, please let me know.

I have a thread running under the legal/ politics section ( running the grave risk of getting totally out of hand ) that attempts to cover UK law in detail - following my wife's FAC renewal.

That leads to the muzzle brake. I confess to being a real wimp regards recoil. In addition, both our main stalking rifles are used interchangably between my wife and I. She is quite small - luckily I follow Coopers view on prefering a short stock length.

However, the M/B allows us both to shoot in comfort. The Tikka 6.5 is an attemot to wrest control back of 'my' rifle - a 30-06 Browning with Boss. My wife uses that with 165grain Nitrex and can shoot it all day withot discomfort etc. Accordingly, I had a M/B fitted by a local gunsmith.

Lastly, on deer, you usually retain enough sight picture to see the strike - this can be a real boon in deciding on follow up shots / recovery of the beast etc.

Muzzle blast can be an issue, however in terms of hearing damage, any full-bore rifle is going to do you no good without ear protection.

On the plus side for UK law, it is not too hard to obtain a sound moderator. These can be ideal and also tend to act on recoil in much the same way as a M/B.

I will look to start a thread regards an up coming Roe stalking trip I have planned with my friend Bob - hopefully will again provide interest as a comparison with the scene over there.
 
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