Tightening the Lock-up on a revolver...

S

Southern Shooter

New member
I am not attempting this myself. I just want to know the procedure of it---

I have an older S&W Model 15 .38 Special and a 1980 Ruger Speed-Six .357 Magnum that have been through several owners and shot a whole bunch. They are beginning to show some signs of a little looseness in the cylinder at the point of lock-up.

What is the procedure that a gunsmith takes to tighten that lock-up on a revolver? And, is it costly?

Thanks
 
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It depends on what you mean by, "cylinder looseness". If you mean end shake, there are shims that will adjust that. However, if you mean that the crane no longer closes all the way...that means it is bent. It would help if you used the correct terms and/or described the problem in more detail.
 
More Specific...

The crane closes all the way very snuggly.

When the trigger is being squeezed all the way back and held tightly...there is still a tad of shake in the cylinder.
 
On the Smith a new cylinder stop and locking bolt should take up some of the play. Not difficult to change. The S&W Revolver shop manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen is a worthwhile investment.
 
A small amount of perceptible "wiggle" is acceptable in an S&W revolver. I know some folks will go rabidass insane at that statement and want to burn me at the stake, but it is true. So how much is "acceptable"? It is about impossible to describe but anything beyond perceptible is probably too much. The usual fix is a new oversize hand and a new oversize cylinder stop.

Shims will take care of most end shake, but there is a point where that solution no longer works and a new cylinder may be needed, or the gun retired.

Truly, getting to the point of too much "wiggle" or end shake takes a lot of shooting. Your guns may be to that point, but they may not be. I suggest looking at some new and used guns and judge for yourself where your guns fit and how they feel in regard to other guns.

Jim
 
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