Tigger Job On S&W J-Frame

D

Druggie

New member
:confused: Has anyone had a "trigger job" done on a S&W J-Frame? Honestly, I don't know what all is involved in a trigger job, but obviously the goal is to get a smoother, lighter, trigger pull.

My carry gun is a S&W 337 AirLite Ti. I also have a Taurus 85 ULT Titanium. The S&W is lighter, sleeker, better looking, better quality, but the TAURUS' trigger pull kicks the S&W's butt.

I want that s-m-o-o-o-o-t-h Taurus trigger pull in my S&W. Would a "trigger job" accomplish this? Is a trigger job a routine chore for an able gunsmith?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.
 
Unscrew the sideplate on your J-frame, and take a look. You will notice a spring inside the grip that actuates the hammer, and a spring inside the transfer bar behind the trigger. The spring in the handle is responsible for the stiffness of a double-action pull, so slackening it a bit will reduce this. The spring in the treansfer bar controls the stiffness of the single-action pull, slackening this will have the same effect for the SA pull. You will also notice (if you remove the parts. don't do it unless you know what you're doing, they're difficult to reassemble, trust me) that some of them have rough corners and rough surfaces. Polishing up these parts will make the trigger pull feel smoother.

Obviously the springs can only be slackened to a point, too loose on the mainspring and the gun won't fire, but the little bit that they can be will make it easier to shoot.

Smoothing out the internal parts, and reducing or stiffening the springs (per your request) are standard parts of a "trigger job".

A competent gunsmith should be able to do this with no problem, but I would ask for examples of his work if possible. Do that with any gunsmith work you request.
 
From my exp. you can get a very smooth trigger on a J-Frame trigger but you may be disapointed in how light it can be made, while still being reliable.

Maybe it has something to do with the trigger geometry, leverage or something else but just seems the larger frames can give a much lighter pull than the J's.
 
Don't "just" unscrew the sideplate. Easy to bugger up the works unless you know what you doin.

Trigger rebound spring affects both single and double action pull.

Get Jerry Kunhausen's book on S&Ws, read it a few times.....then dive in.

Sam
 
Taurus has recently relocated a pivot pin and lightened the mainspring in their small-frame guns. New ones really have sweet trigger pulls compared to J-frames, which have always been the coil-sprung red-headed stepchild of the *&* lineup.

I'd recommend a Wolff spring kit and a gunsmith who is knowledgeable in the field of wheelgun trigger work.
 
First shoot 500 rounds through your 337 before you consider an action job. Nothing smooths up an S&W revolver like shooting it. On top of that, it's fun.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I did talk to a very good gunsmith today, and he recommended the Wolff spring kit...it is the "Shooter's Pak-Reduced Power"--8 lb. hammer spring and one each 13, 14, and 15 lb. reduced power rebound springs. Cost--$9 + S&H.

By the way, I have had my 337 for over year, and I've shot over 500 rounds through it (and that trigger pull still just doesn't match the Taurus 85 ULT).
 
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