threaded knob vs. new handle welded on

O

oldscot3

New member
I have a mauser sporter built on an Argentine 09 action. The original bolt handle was reforged to gain scope clearance. It clears nicely however it's functionality is offset by its appearance, in short (excuse the pun) it's stubby.

I'm thinking of improving the rifle by either having a Dakota style handle welded on or having the knob turned and threaded for a longer knob. I like the idea of the threaded knob but don't care for the "tactical" look of most I've seen for this hunting gun.

Thoughts? The smith that reforged the handle was strongly opposed to welding.
Anybody know of a threaded knob that is more pear shaped in appearance?
 
Many old timers favored forged bolt handles over welded on ones because the latter kept coming off. Still, a good welder should be able to cut off the old handle down to the stub and weld on a new one that will be longer and with any knob shape you want. Cutting the handle at the knob end and threading it and the knob will work, but would leave the handle shorter than it is now.

Jim
 
!

Here is a 1909 sporter with a welded on bolt handle.

It's just right!

100_0030.jpg
 
Apparently they don't cut the knob off and then rethread. They turn the knob down to a shank and then thread it. Most tactical knobs advertise adding between 3/4 to 1 1/4 inches.

Just right indeed, wish mine looked like that.
 
Get in touch with THE GUN PARTS CORPORATION. They have boxes of Arisaka bolts with turned down and welded handles, they may have some Mauser bolts laying around too. I have seen some crappy welded bolt handles in my time, but that was mostly gas welded by people that could not gas weld. With the modern welding equipment now, you could just take it to a welder.
 
I once watched a gunsmith show a customer the weld job he did on the customer's bolt handle. He worked the bolt rapidly a few times, exclaiming about the quality of the welding and how smoothly the bolt ..... ooopps! I don't think I will ever forget that guy's face as he stood with the rifle in one hand and the bolt handle in the other. The customer was not impressed.

Jim
 
Take a good look at how the Remington bolt handle is attached. I have heard a lot of complaints of it coming off. This is due to poor heat and set up when silver soldering or brazing, whatever the application is. There is nothing wrong with welding a bolt handle on.
 
If you otherwise like the handle, have the knob turned off and the handle threaded.

I don't have one, but PTG makes them-including one for use on a mill instead of a lathe. Just google something like "bolt handle threading" and you'll come up with a ton of guys that have the jig and do it often (and cheap). If you have a mill or lathe, you might even want to get one- not very expensive.

http://shop.pacifictoolandgauge.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=310_127

As long as the knobs aren't cast (I know there's at least one manuf that casts- might be Savage) it's a simple process. With the cast handles/knob I remember reading there was the possibility of hitting voids which trashed the job.
 
Thanks for the replies... if I can find a good smith in my area I'll see what they say. I do already have the Dakota handle.
 
Depending on the cost involved, I'd go with the threaded option. I've done both(never had a bolt handle fall off, either) and the threading is less stress inducing on the bolt and less likely to overheat bolt cocking cam or lugs.
As a novelty, I welded an actual bolt onto a Mauser bolt as a "handle"(get it, BOLT handle) contoured and shaped it and rounded the hex head for comfort when cycling the bolt.
 
I have seen photos of "Last ditch Mausers" with an actual threaded bolt welded on the bolt body. Scarey looking guns to fire.

Holy Mackerel! For what it costs for all those tools you could probably take a box of bolts to a welder. I don't get this surge of bolt welding problems. It may be rumors from the problems Remington had with some of their bolts. I have dovetailed aluminum bolt handles on to lighten rifles for years and never had a problem. If you took a hammer to one there would be a problem, but under normal use? If you need a hammer to open or close a bolt, you have other issues going on. There are different types of gunsmiths, just as there are different types of doctors. Gunsmiths tend to want to work in certain areas. Maybe try out another one for this venture?
 
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Someone converted a VZ24 to 270 and welded the bolt handle. He was breaking in the barrel today and notices a crack in the bolt.
I asked him if he got it hot welding and dropped it in water.
He said he has a bronze buttressed thread heatsink he made screwed in and welding paste all over it. That part of that bolt never got hot.
I told him to take another VZ24 off the shelf, cannibalize the bolt, weld it and get going again.
 

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