Thinking of reloading...243 questions

A

ARqueen15

New member
Hi...

So I'm looking at a very attractive deal on a new t/c compass rifle package. The big caveat at least to me is that it is in 243. Mind you, everything I've read on that his round tells me it can do everything I'd need with excellent ballistics.

What is giving me pause is the obvious, that being ammo cost.

It doesn't seem like anyone even makes match grade rounds in 243 and the walmart and other stuff is near $1/round.

Is there a consensus on reloading 243? Also what are you seeing as your reloading cost assuming you don't case bullets? Finally how long would you say it takes to create 100 rounds on a simple single stage press like an affordable Lee loader?

Intended use would be precision shooting (not competitive, just casual and an individual thing) and possibly hunting for mid sized game.

I've looked at the various online reload cost calculators and used supplies from midway as inputs but end up around .78/round. Obviously if I bought I don't know, 10000 primers and 5000 bullets, then reused the brass 8x then costs would drop somewhat though it's hard to see it being less than .50 to .60 a round. Given this would be out of a bolt gun it is hard for me to fathom shooting that much so I used 250 as a starting point on the reload calculators.

What I can see is that hazmat fees on primers and powder along with bullet costs seem to ensure you can't do this below a certain minimum cost. Decent bullets seem to be around ~.20/bullet, primers add another .03-04, then hazmat fees add another bit too.

I've ruled out going up in caliber (such as to. 308 though I woukd consider 6.5) given I'm not keen on having more recoil since I've been doing a lot of 12 gauge shotgun slug shooting lately and my shoulder is rather unhappy with that.

The alternative could be. 223 which has tons of match and cheap ammo while still offering the opportunity to reload but with many more options. The catch is finding a rifle (easiest and cheaoest is likely an ar with a 1:7) with a fast enough twist to handle the best heavy and highest sd.223 rounds but even these don't seem comparable to the better 243 loads.

I'm new to this so apologies in advance if these are neophyte questions!
 
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Well, I believe if there is a "concensus" on reloading .243 it is that handloaders by & large will absolutely handload for pretty much EVERY cartridge they use. There are only a few exceptions, typically in "blasting" chi-com steel-cased chamberings such as 7.62x54R, 5.45, 7.62x39, etc etc.

As for hazmat fees on shipped powder and primers... yes, you do get dinged on those items so it helps to either buy locally or buy in bulk. When loading bottle neck rifle, you typically do burn through far more powder than you do in pistol ammo.

Handloading certainly is a direct method to get less expensive ammo but nearly every handloader on the planet will tell you that while your cost per round drops way, way down -- you absolutely 100% will be spending more and more money. You'll spend money on equipment, you'll wildly diversify what you make and you'll get drawn in to the hobby side of this game. You will spend more money (a good bit more!) but you'll also shoot a whole lot more.
 
#1 dont buy primers/powder online. Its just to expensive.

#2 you did say you precision shooting, best way to be precise is to roll your own.

I think your cost per round will be closer to $.50 if you buy powder and primers locally.

There are lot of other rounds for the AR that would send a bigger bullet down range, IE 6mmx4X , 24-45 sharps etc. But I guarantee you will shoot more rounds with an AR which will help to negate the savings over 243.
 
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"It doesn't seem like anyone even makes match grade rounds in 243"

Have you looked at Nosler's Shooters Pro Shop? I think they advertised some 243 on their reduced price sheet yesterday. Their ammo is close enough to "match grade" for casual use.
Re: reloading
Some of the 243's I've loaded for over the last 1/2 century proved to be very sensitive to bullet weight and velocity making finding "just the right load" highly consumptive of both time and components . Others were simply "pick something and crank it out".
 
Using a single stage RCBS Rockchucker, I would allot 3 hours to load 100 good .243 rounds. That assumes I'm trimming cases and measuring every charge (I have one of those automated Chargemasters). Of course, you don't have to do it all in one effort. Waiting for the cable guy? Prep a few cases. Rainy day? You get the idea.

I don't know where you live, but the Great Shortage is over most places. The powders used for .243 are pretty popular mid-range ones. I like IMR-4064 and -4320 plus a few others. You would not be wrong in buying an 8-lb container of 4064. Primers should also be available locally. Bullets? They're not as cheap as they used to be, but 6mm bullets are very popular. Shop around.

Now, if you're shooting 300 yards or less, you will do well with a .223. Lots of folks shoot that round to 600. But if you want tack driver ammo, you won't see much cost difference. Certainly no time difference for loading. That cheap ammo ain't bad, but you can do a lot better.

The truth is, most of us loaders don't really want to know our cost per round. We enjoy it for what it is.
 
7's said it quite well.

I don't think you'll find many folks who got into hand loading only to get out of it. Of course once you've invested in it you can't afford not to....:D

Before I loaded my own I never shot as much- my ammo reserves seemed depleted and I was always "rationing". Not a problem now. My goal is to have buckets of loaded rounds piled around the house......the problem is now I shoot too much to get ahead of it. :cool:
 
Check prices/availability on ammoseek.com. They show prices starting at $0.62 per round. Figure 45-50 cents per round for handloading (reusing your brass). Even with inexpensive Lee equipment (which I use & love) it's about $300-350 for a decent set-up for loading. Takes a bit of shooting to recoup the start-up costs (at $0.10 - 0.15 per round). I reload pistol & rifle for both my wife and I and consider it a big cost savings.
 
Reloading is not about saving money. It's about using the best possible ammo in your firearms. Reloading is tailoring the ammo to your rifle. It also lets you keep shooting new cartridges that the assorted marketing dept. decided to discontinue.
As mentioned, buy components locally. The Hazmat fees and shipping costs will negate any cost savings found on line. Wouldn't rely on on-line calculators either. Don't buy anything that's "On Clearance" either. Usually means it's been discontinued by the manufacturer.
"...match grade rounds in .243..." Until relatively recently there was no such thing as a match grade 6mm bullet. Wasn't until the benchrest guys got playing with 6mm PPC and 6mmBR that the manufacturers started making 'em. That was around 1978.
In any case, the .243 has pretty much only been a hunting cartridge. Deer sized game(that includes black bears) and varmints. Isn't used much for target shooting. Primarily due to the rifles being rifled for deer bullets.
Heavy for calibre bullets need a faster rifling twist to stabilize properly. In the .243, that's usually 1 in 9.125 or thereabouts. Slower twists like 1 in 12 or 14 are best with lighter bullets. However, those twists are found more in custom barrels than regular hunting rifles. The assorted heavy barrel 'Varmint' rifles included.
What's really important is using the right bullet for your intended game. As in do not use varmint bullets for deer or bears. Those are usually 85 grains and up, but there are some lighter bullets around now. Varmint bullets are designed to expand rapidly upon impact. Deer bullets have controlled expansion. They penetrate then expand.
Nobody says you cannot shoot varmints with a deer load. A Speer 105 grain SP does amazing things to a ground hog. It's the best practice for deer season too.
If you opt not to reload because you found a deal. Remember that all rifles shoot all ammo differently. You will have to try a box of as many brands and bullet weights as you can to find the ammo your rifle shoots best.
 
You came to the wrong place to get talked out of reloading! :p

Additionally if you shoot any other caliber you have a minimum of equipment to load that caliber too.
 
Hornady 95 gr SST on a great sale.....LINK. $1.19 /Rd


Bullet same. $0.25/rd

Powder - IMR 4451 at $25 /lb locally $0.15/rd

Case - Winchester $0.44/10 loadings $0.04

Primer - Federal Benchrest $0.04

$0.48 per round plus shipping of bullets

Seems like a reasonable price. How were you figuring the price?


BTW, I would suggest you save a bit and start at decent:
Lyman Ultimate Reloading System

I would probably start with the Lyman Starter Kit...
Sell the scale. Buy a Hornady Powder Dispenser, good Mitsutoyo calipers, a 1" gage Block, Hornady headspace/OAL tools, notebook, Wilson Case Trimmer....and get at it
 
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Thank you for the many responses and educating ne on some finer points of reloading.

With all that in mind I think it makes more sense to go with the 223 for now. It gives me the option of cheap, readily available rounds along with match ammo to start off with. True, that I could go through more ammo with a1:8 twist AR than a bolt gun but I can be methodical with the semiauto too. .. mostly by focusing on fundamentals and not rushing any shots.

And of course I can ease my way into reloading without being stuck with an expensive, if superior, caliber with the 243 once I get my rifle fine tuned with a solid optic.

I've specifically noted what was suggested to buy primers and powders locally as those hazmat fees would truly add up quickly!

Any suggestions on a decent setup to get started? I know some are not fond of the basic lee sets. Ideally I'd liketo keep start up costs low. No doubt I'll need a die for 5.56 and. 243 if I go that route too and I'm also thinking a decent digital scale at least.

100 rounds in 3 hours seems quite reasonable so that would be a rate I'd be happy with!

EDIT: I started typing my reply before refreshing the page. I appreciate the suggestion on the reloading set and note it isn't a Budget Lee rig.

I confess that the comment on a 95 grain 3000 for bullet doing amazing things to a ground hog had me in stitches! Well played :)

I have to ask. .. why did everyone say you won't save money? I could see where you would throwing lead down range with an ak or ar but with a decent sized caliber in a bolt gun can you really shoot that much? The rate of fire and the barrel profile seems like shooting 150 rounds in a day at the range would be far fetched. Doubly so if you were loading 308 or something with pop to it, I'm imagining my shoulder quitting early.

Or is it that people shoot more often?

Unrelated but is it OK to a shoot some decent factory ammo (and I don't mean steel cased tula) and use the spent cases as my initial stock of brass or am I better off getting new brass?

As to my price sources, I went straight off of midway and framed supplies around 250 rounds since it would be a new thing and I didn't want a warehouse of primers before knowing if I enjoyed the activity or not. I think the calculations shared take into account repeated use of brass which I hadn't. ...I framed it as a sort of 250 rounds and done. Obviously even then I could have bought 50 brass cases and reused them several times but didn't think of that... oops, novice at work here!
 
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You save money per round, but you end up shooting more, and buying more and more dies/equipment.

I got the Lee Loader (the one that uses a hammer) for 7mm Rem Mag first. I shot over 300 rounds of Rem Mag with that thing.

Then upgraded to the 4 hole Lee Turret Kit.

First year with that I shot another 300+ rounds of 7mm Rem Mag, 900+ rounds of 7mm-08, and between myself and my neighbor 1000+ rounds of 40 S&W.

Now I do about 200 7mm Rem Mag, 1000+ 7mm-08AI, 600+ 243 Win, 100 or so 30-06, 1000+ 308 (I don't even own a 308), 200-300 257 Roberts, 1500+ 45 ACP, and about 2000 9mm.

I'm using RL 26 and Hornady 105gr. Match in my wife's Rossi R243. 1:10 twist.
According to Hornady it won't stabilize the 105's but have had no issues to 500 yards.

Reloading also opens up the whole gambit of obsolete and wildcat cartridges.
My 257 Roberts I shoot using everything from 75gr. HP - 120gr. HPBT Gamekings.

I'm in the process of building a Mauser. (ok, rebarreling, stock, base, rings, scope) This in 284 Winchester.

And your not going to find any Ackley Improved cartridges, aside from 280AI, on the shelves. (280AI being "standardized").
 
Regards buying ammo for the brass vs. new brass: "Milspec" 5.56x45 ammo may have crimped primer pockets. Repriming without additional preparation can be a pain. If you go that way or use a lot of range pickups (I do!) you can get a little primer pocket swaging tool. Makes things a lot easier.
 
Real Guns.com

Real Guns-Calculators-Handloading

Plug the numbers in and it will tell you how much per round.
 
Personally I'd cross a single stage off the list for a first press and get a Lee turret press. I never did like the index feature, but otherwise, I think they are great, and do everything a single stage does, but with a LOT more flexibility.

Also, the cheapo single stage C-frame "breech lock loader" is quite fragile. If you go single stage, you won't be wasting money getting an "O" style press.

Re the mil crimp thing: IME with thousands of mixed 5.56 MG fired surplus, I find precious few that need a decrimp. But here's the trick I use: Set the decap pin to just barely push the primer out. Ones that have a "real" crimp (maybe 1 in 1-200) will bulge out, but remain attached. Set those ones aside for decrimp.

Unlike 7.62 nato which IME every one gets a decrimp, reduced load due to case thickness (volume). And after fighting the brass springing back, I anneal every one if it's MG fired.

I use an RCBS decrimp, but if I had it to do again, I'd just get the Dillon. Having to swap out the shell holder gets old, and the eject system is sort of funky on some presses- I have to use a coat hanger for the eject collar, and it wouldn't fit at all on my other press.
 
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Quick tip for loading 243 Win.

Take the expander out of the sizing die. Especially if it's a Lee.

I have to F/L size every time for my wife's Rossi R243 single shot. What a PITA!!

Looking to sell it (although I hate to because it's wonderfully accurate) and get her a Savage 11VT.
 
press

I think startng to load bottleneck cases on a single stageis the perfect way to start. I still load most my bottlenecks on my 40+ yr old Rockchucker. A progressive makes pistol cases faster and easier, and I wouldn't be w/o one now, but to start, step by step and understanding and keeping up with the process, a single is fine, thinks me anyhow.

Sevens had a great post and on target. If your disciplined and limit your involvement, you can indeed save money. For a long time, I only loaded .38/357 and .308 on the old single stage, and I'm certain I paid for the press many times over. But as new guns came along, and my interest grew, .....watch out! I'm way over my head now, and have some many components on the shelves, unused, that I may not shoot them all in my lifetime. But I've got a cool bench though.

I'd say, w/o hesitation, that anybody that shoots very much at all, get into loading.
 
"I think startng to load bottleneck cases on a single stageis the perfect way to start."

YES. Get an "O frame" press, the "C frames" and turret presses have too much flex. 243 is one of those smallish cases than can require a lot of force to resize and (IMHO) isn't a good candidate for neck sizing BTW. The 243 was one of the first cases I starting loading with and has probably given me more headaches than any other.
 
I am still using a single stage press and have been doing so on and off for 40 years.

Littler rounds like 223, hmmm.

If you do 223, get a bolt action. The semi auto's are not what they are cracked up to be accuracy wise. I played with those a while back, pretty much neya and that was supposed to be a good one.
 
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