The Little Pin

T

timlab55

New member
I wanted to changed out my buffer in my AR15. So I got a buffer kit thinking no big deal, but I'm wrong (as usual). I got the new buffer up to 4.7oz from 3.0oz, but I can't get that little pin in. I saw a few youtube video's and the only tools I have is a hammber and vise. So my question is this, what special tools do I need to do this project (getting the little pin and out (if needed))?
If you can find the tool on amazon, could you please put a link.
Thanks
Dan
 
One of us is confused?
I think "The little pin" might be the Buffer Retainer". Its designed so you don't need to remove it to change the buffer.

Its a spring loaded plunger that pokes up and prevents the buffer from leaving the buffer tube.

The buffer retainer travels in a vertical direction and is trapped in its little hole by the end of the buffer tube overlapping it just a bit. You can use some pokey tool such as a small screwdriver or punch if you want but I generally use the fingernail of my trigger finger to push the plunger down,out of the way of the buffer. The recoil spring will then drive the buffer out for you.

This task does not require a hammer or any other tools .

Are you just looking to add weights to the buffer?

What is it you are trying to accomplish by this and why?

There is more to buffer design than weight. Research "Bolt Bounce"for example.

I just select a buffer with no mark,or an "H" ,or an "H-2" etc.
 
Why can’t you lock it horizontally in a vice and hammer the pin in? Usually a hammer, large punch and maybe a pin punch to align the bumper should be all you need.
 
"My AR-15 does not cycle after shooting"

OK. Please help me understand how a heavier buffer will get it to cycle.
The lighter buffer is more likely to cycle.It offers less inertia/resistance to cycling.
Heavier weights and different rubbers are more about soaking up energy that isn't necessarily wanted.
What is your cartridge and barrel length?

Often the problem that needs solving is about being over gassed. It cycles,but too violently. Some buffers are tailored to full auto fire with short barrels.

In some cases an adjustable gas block might be a better way of throttling things down.

These AR accessory outfits are happy to sell you muffler bearings when you need a brake drum pump.

Start with the idea an H,H-1,and H-2 buffers have met most needs for over 50 years. Those are generally about$20.

If the bolt isn't opening far enough to pick up the next round, a heavier buffer is not the answer.

Is it a 5.56?

What is the barrel length? What ammo are you using?

What is the gas system length? Is it possible the gas block port is not aligned with the barrel gas port?

Factory gun or home built? There are a LOT of possibilities that a buffer kit won't fix. Using an A-2 butt stock screw with an A-1 stock will result in a failure to cycle.

Now,to the question you asked about the pins. Its pretty hard to drill through two parts like the buffer and plug and have the hole perfectly centered, Off center .001 or.002 is a problem if you assemble the plug 180 degrees off. Be sure the holes line up.

Pretend your roll pin is 1/8 dia by 5/8 long. I made that up. Imagine a special starter punch 1/4 in diameter that has a .130 or so clearance hole about 3/8 deep on center axis of the punch.

If we load the pin in the end of the punch we can hold the short little SOB square over the hole without whacking our finger with the hammer. A bit of lube on the pin won't hurt . A 2 1/2 in long 1/4-20 cap screw will make a fine punch if you drill a hole in it.
 
Looking at the picture of the kit, I don't see what your problem is, assuming you assemble it with the holes lined up.

If the only tools you have are a hammer and a vice, you do need more tools.

something to hold the pin, like needle nose pliers can be very useful.

From the picture the pin(s) are hollow, so I would assume they are roll pins, ad the seam is just not shown.

I suggest you check out "roll pin punches", which are not the same as the usual drive pin punches. Also consider your hammer. One size does not fit all tasks well. A small hammer is useful for starting the pin, tapping it into place lined up and straight.

Another trick is to use a drill bit, close enough in size to be a "slip fit" to keep the buffer tube cap lined up while you start the roll pin.

Its just there to hold the end cap in place, it shouldn't be a problem unless it is grossly oversized for the hole it needs to fit into.

Changing the buffer weight will have an effect on the rifle cycling, but it is not a guarantee of solving your issues all alone.
 
@ OP--probably the first part of your issue needs to be deciphered first--why is your AR not cycling (what are the symptoms and possible causes) and then figure out what the best solution (meaning easiest and least costly IMO). Kurt at KAK is a good guy to contact directly if you can since you bought the product from his company to begin with--I suspect that if you call him and walk him through issues and ask for detailed suggestions he will more than likely steer you on the right direction.
 
punch

Yeah, from what I see, the correct tool would be a a roll pin punch of the proper diameter . A roll pin punch will have a slight nipple on the face that will allow the pin to center and drive straight. A standard punch can work, but you can booger the pin too.

Using a slave pin as described by 44AMP will hold the two items in alignment till you get the pin started. A simple , small vise is a useful tool, Harbor Freight will be glad to sell you a cheap one that will work for most household tasks.

Whether or not that will solve your undescribed problem is another matter.
 
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