That won't buff out...

The complaint was that the gun wasn't hitting paper, and the cylinder was stuck. The first sign of a problem was the bulge under the "N."

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And why was the cylinder locked shut? Perhaps it was this:

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Yep, it had to be hammered open. So, just how many were in there? We're figuring at least six.

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This...isn't really fixable. It's a shame, too. The gun was an old Atlanta Police Department gun that had been handed down.

There are two morals to this story. First, stop shooting if you're not seeing hits on the target. Second, stop shooting if you hear a puff instead of a boom.
 
Why isn't that fixable? My first thought was to go to eBay and look for a replacement barrel.
A 4" nickel pencil barrel for a model 10 can't be that hard to find.
 
As has been mentioned already, that (possibly) IS fixable. As long as the threaded portion of the frame (into which the barrel screws) is not bulged out of spec or cracked, then a new barrel can be fitted.

The most likely area for damage or cracking is the flat portion of the frame, under the barrel stub, which is the thinnest portion of the frame in this area.

Obviously, the existing barrel is junk - and that may well be what the OP meant by "not fixable".

But, by no means would I consider junking the frame of that good 'ole K-frame Smith, UNLESS it is determined that the frame is bulged/ cracked. There is a good chance, in fact, that the frame is OK. But, this is NOT a DIY project for a home gunsmith. The frame SHOULD be checked by a competent gunsmith, or better yet, returned to Smith & Wesson and checked by them. Cost-wise, it may not be worth it to repair (model 10's are not the most valuable of the old Smiths), but it would be nice to see that old 10-2 resurrected.
 
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As long as the threaded portion of the frame (into which the barrel screws) is not bulged out of spec or cracked, then a new barrel can be fitted.
We haven't checked closely. The yoke is bent up pretty badly, and that appears to have been the case before this incident.

It might be possible to rebarrel it, but the cost of repairs would far exceed the value of the gun at this point.
 
This maybe the wrong place for this but how many of these incidents are because of progressive loaders? All I have ever had is an RCBS Jr and trickle heavy loads and weigh every 10th one if they are lighter loads and I'm using a good metering powder. And that is a real shame though, nice old Smith.
 
It ain't the fault of the press.
A poor craftsman blames his tools.
If I had to still rely on a single stage press, or even a turret, I'd never gotten into the wonderful world of action shooting.
Would probably have expired from old age before loading enough ammo for even one season.
Hurrah for progressives.
 
This maybe the wrong place for this but how many of these incidents are because of progressive loaders?
The ammunition was from a commercial reloading company with a very good reputation. I doubt it was the loads.

The gun was not maintained very well, and I suspect a long pattern of serious neglect.
 
Y' know, I never thought I'd say this, but there are some people out there that just shouldn't be allowed to own anything capable of being abused in a dangerous way.:o
 
I would say find a way to make it so that the cylinder shuts, and can never be opened again to make the gun fire. Then clean it up very well. Make a shadow box for it.

While it may not be in working order any longer it can still be made into a nice decoration.
 
When I see a front sight like that, ramped and nicely setup, I always think that someone in the past was a shooter who understood a good sight picture.

Too bad it happened to a nice gun like that.
 
Tom Servo said:
The gun was not maintained very well, and I suspect a long pattern of serious neglect.
Not just neglect. How about abuse?

Look at the muzzle in the third photo. It looks like the owner (or someone) was using it to try to break rocks.
 
What neglect would cause such a failure, a heavily leaded/dirty barrel? Not looking for an argument, just wondering.
 
Why not just put another barrel on it? The frame is probably OK, I see pinned M10 barrels for sale all the time and it is no real trick to screw on a new one.
 
Twelve years ago I bought a 38 Special Victory Model with a bulged barrel. Bagged a 1939 5" barrel on eBay for a fiver. Used the bench vise, punch and hammer to remove the pin and old barrel and swap on the replacement. Took about 30 minutes and the revolver works fine.
 
Guy . . . .the "neglect" would be on the part of the shooter not realizing he had a "squib". This can happen if a cartridge (a reloaded one) doesn't have a powder charge in the case or a very "below minimum charge" in it. The bullet doesn't clear the barrel . . . the shooter doesn't realize it and continues to fire the rest off . . thereby stacking one bullet on top of another. Fortunately, this Smith held up . . . if it hadn't, the shooter may have been injured.

I reload and I have had one "squib" . . . which was my fault . . I got interrupted during the loading of a cartridge and I neglected to drop a powder charge . . ALL MY FAULT . . not the revolver. I only shoot and reload cast . . . and fortunately I caught it. The CCI small pistol primer had enough power to it to expel the 148 gr lead wadcutter from the cartridge, through the forcing cone and in to the barrel where it stopped about 1/4" in front of the forcing cone. This was in a Smith Model 36 snub . . had I fired the next round, which was loaded with powder, I may have had to kiss a finger or two good-bye.

It's a shame on this one as it looks like a nice old Smith.
 
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