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Tempilaq Temperature Disagreement
- Thread starter RC20
- Start date
Stats Shooter
New member
That is strange. I use Tempilaq 450, 700, and 750. I have noticed that if it isn't thinned properly that it won't melt properly...but if you have used it before, I'm sure you don't put it in clumpy.
I suppose your Tempilaq 800 could be too thin or your 750 too thick.
Oh, an I also assume you are putting it on clean brass, same caliber, same headstamp, same lot etc..
But beyond that I have no idea.
I suppose your Tempilaq 800 could be too thin or your 750 too thick.
Oh, an I also assume you are putting it on clean brass, same caliber, same headstamp, same lot etc..
But beyond that I have no idea.
Missipsippi:
Yes, this is much a warning as an item of interest,.
Always cross check data, if its not making sense find out why.
The liquid is new to me, the 750 my brother gave was getting a bit thick so I ordered thinner with the 800
800 seems about right. The 450 seems normal.
800 seems tad clumpy or something like that, so maybe a date thing.
It does dry on with a normal appearance though.
Will see what Templiq has to say.
While I use the crayons at work, brass is not an application that works, it does not attach to brass.
I do have some around, have to see what I can glean.
Work we head bearings up, then check. The race has enough heat retention you can do that.
Brass not so much.
Yes, this is much a warning as an item of interest,.
Always cross check data, if its not making sense find out why.
The liquid is new to me, the 750 my brother gave was getting a bit thick so I ordered thinner with the 800
800 seems about right. The 450 seems normal.
800 seems tad clumpy or something like that, so maybe a date thing.
It does dry on with a normal appearance though.
Will see what Templiq has to say.
While I use the crayons at work, brass is not an application that works, it does not attach to brass.
I do have some around, have to see what I can glean.
Work we head bearings up, then check. The race has enough heat retention you can do that.
Brass not so much.
JeepHammer
Moderator
I notice that very old paint melts stupid...
My 750 was hanging on while 800 was melting, 750 being very old but thinned out fine.
New 750 did what it was supposed to do.
This stuff seems like voodoo to me, I wish there was a fast response thermocouple that didn't freak out in the induction field, I'd jump on that in a heartbeat!
I have about half a dozen that didn't take the induction field very well... Seems the metal in the thermocouple cooks before the cases do...
My 750 was hanging on while 800 was melting, 750 being very old but thinned out fine.
New 750 did what it was supposed to do.
This stuff seems like voodoo to me, I wish there was a fast response thermocouple that didn't freak out in the induction field, I'd jump on that in a heartbeat!
I have about half a dozen that didn't take the induction field very well... Seems the metal in the thermocouple cooks before the cases do...
JeepHammer
Moderator
Mr. Guffy, RC20 is trying to figure out time to heat, once that's done he's off to the races and won't need to paint unless he's doing QC.
Do you know a better way to indicate max temp?
Do you know a better way to indicate max temp?
My take, nothing back from them. Shooting yesterday so no chance to call.
Will do so this next week.
I don't do a lot of it but Tempilq is spoken with some reverence in the metal world.
For now I am going very conservative and holding my own and will see what the response is.
But as noted, cross checks are critical. Never discount what you are being told.
this one is pretty obvious, but others not so much. If two data bits disagree, find out why. One is wrong or a base assumption is.
In this case they can't disagree by definition. So one or the other is off.
Will do so this next week.
I don't do a lot of it but Tempilq is spoken with some reverence in the metal world.
For now I am going very conservative and holding my own and will see what the response is.
But as noted, cross checks are critical. Never discount what you are being told.
this one is pretty obvious, but others not so much. If two data bits disagree, find out why. One is wrong or a base assumption is.
In this case they can't disagree by definition. So one or the other is off.
Interesting problem RC, what I would try is this
take a case and paint a band of 750 halfway around the case then finish the band with 800. Pop it into your Annie and start with .5 seconds and let it cool, repeat while increasing the times by .1 seconds until one of the Templaqs melts. Hopefully the 750. If the 800 melts first try another case and rotate it on the Y axis 180 degrees so that the 750 is in the same spot that the 800 was in the first time. If you are getting the case into the same spot each time as far as the spatial relationship of the case to the coil you should be getting consistent results with the same caliber/brand cases
take a case and paint a band of 750 halfway around the case then finish the band with 800. Pop it into your Annie and start with .5 seconds and let it cool, repeat while increasing the times by .1 seconds until one of the Templaqs melts. Hopefully the 750. If the 800 melts first try another case and rotate it on the Y axis 180 degrees so that the 750 is in the same spot that the 800 was in the first time. If you are getting the case into the same spot each time as far as the spatial relationship of the case to the coil you should be getting consistent results with the same caliber/brand cases
I shoot bench rest 308 cal. That was the guest I asked , read a article on accurate shooting . McMaster - Carr sells thermal temp strips that attach to the barrel 113 is the temp to let cool I ordered & attached to my barrel , takes the guess work out.
Answer to a different question?
It would be a good answer for hot barrel.
JeepHammer
Moderator
There is a barrel temp thread on the BBS.
He did one of my stunts, wrong thread!
Good answer though for the barrel temp thread!
He did one of my stunts, wrong thread!
Good answer though for the barrel temp thread!