TC White Mountain Flint Lock Won't Fire?

R

RattleSnake Jake

Inactive
All of my black powder shooting has been done with percussion rifles.

I bought a TC White Mountain Flint Lock about 12 years ago and put it over my cabin's fireplace as a decoration. We sold the cabin, so I thought that I'd bring it as a back up to my Hawkin rifle during an up coming elk hunt.

Long story short, I couldn't get it to fire while sighting it in at the range. It had the factory original flint, I was using Pyrodex P, a FFFg equivelent in the pan.

I had two problems that I'm aware of:
One, I wasn't getting much spark to ignite the powder in the pan.

Two, When the pan did ignit (only twice out of 25+ attempts), it wouldn't set off the main charge in the chamber.

The flash hole into the chamber charge was "picked" and as far as I could tell, unobstructed. No oil or cleaning fluids in the chamber either.

I'm stumped.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
I've shot a friend of mine's older flint Hawken rifle & he used FFFFG Black Powder for the pan charge & FFG Black Powder for his main charge "same as my Percussion Hawken."

If your Flint isn't making a lot of spark, my question is.
Is your Flint Knapped right?
When you stored your Flint Rifle, did you store it with the hammer at half cock or all the way down?
 
flint question

First let me say t/c flints garbage throw them away find yourself some tom fuller black English flints.
Pyrodex in a flinter no way it will ever fire unless you drop some real black first before the main charge:I would say 5 to 10 grains of real black then add the main charge of pyrodex powder.
I would use goex 3F in all my t/c flinters and 4F in the pan:remember the pan charge is about 2 grains don't fill the pan with powder it will take longer to set the main charge off.I use 2 grains in the pan and when possible tap the powder away from the touch hole.
I would also use t/c new vent liner plug<newer type installs with a Allen key the older type uses the screw driver slot; I would also check and see if the hammer on the lock is the newer style t/c change the hammer a few years back but you will have to return the lock to them for a free upgrade or remove your hammer and send them the hammer asking for the new style hammer.
 
Again .....4f in the pan

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robhof

I had the same problem when I first started with flintlocks. Real Bp and ffffg in the pan is the only way to go and always carry a spare flint and alcohol wipes; even a little oil from your hands can retard a spark. Avoid touching the frizzen except with a dry cloth or an unlubed patch. Clean the face of the frizzen and the flint with alcohol only and be sure they are completely dry before firing. The old timers used to load with a small feather or pick in the touch hole and as said above; a partial pan insures a quicker fire. A full pan or touch hole will act like a fuse and delay the firing time. It'll take practice to get the right combo.
 
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