I recently put several layers of tape around one of my cleaning rods and they dont scratch off when being put through the barrel. Doesnt tape on the rod =steel on plastic so it pretty much prevents damage in less it comes off? I mean theirs no way scotch tape is going to scrach steel.. Anyone else try coating their cleaning rods?
Tape put around a cleaning rod prevent damage?
- Thread starter quintos
- Start date
Quintos,
IMO it's not so much steel rubbing against steel that damages rifling as much as grit (trapped/embedded in tape/plastic/soft rod coverings) rubbing against rifling like sandpaper. Thus I prefer to use smooth CLEAN stainless steel rods with NO coatings to trap grit. Clean from chamber end if possible USING CHAMBER ROD GUIDE. If you must clean from muzzle end ALWAYS USE MUZZLE GUIDE TO CENTER ROD and minimize/prevent damage to the crown. Just my .02.
Good shooting and be safe.
LB
IMO it's not so much steel rubbing against steel that damages rifling as much as grit (trapped/embedded in tape/plastic/soft rod coverings) rubbing against rifling like sandpaper. Thus I prefer to use smooth CLEAN stainless steel rods with NO coatings to trap grit. Clean from chamber end if possible USING CHAMBER ROD GUIDE. If you must clean from muzzle end ALWAYS USE MUZZLE GUIDE TO CENTER ROD and minimize/prevent damage to the crown. Just my .02.
Good shooting and be safe.
LB
cntryboy1289
New member
wrong there
Unless you have actually put your rod on a Rockwell tester, you have no idea what you just said was true or not. Believe me, if it is a steel rod, whether it be stainless or just steel, they can and will be as hard as barrel steel. Like the original answer to the post said, it is the grit that gets between the barrel and the rod most of the time that does the scratching of the rifling in a barrel when cleaning it. The steel rod being as hard as it is is what pushes the grit into the Barrel scratching it. If the rod was soft like you suggest, it would take the brunt of the scratch and not the barrel. A lot of times what scratches the barrel is the jointed rods where they actually screw into each other. They come unscrewed and the shoulder above the threads is what digs into the barrel. That couldn't happen if the rod was soft. I wouldn't use the tape either because of what was said earlier.
Unless you have actually put your rod on a Rockwell tester, you have no idea what you just said was true or not. Believe me, if it is a steel rod, whether it be stainless or just steel, they can and will be as hard as barrel steel. Like the original answer to the post said, it is the grit that gets between the barrel and the rod most of the time that does the scratching of the rifling in a barrel when cleaning it. The steel rod being as hard as it is is what pushes the grit into the Barrel scratching it. If the rod was soft like you suggest, it would take the brunt of the scratch and not the barrel. A lot of times what scratches the barrel is the jointed rods where they actually screw into each other. They come unscrewed and the shoulder above the threads is what digs into the barrel. That couldn't happen if the rod was soft. I wouldn't use the tape either because of what was said earlier.
First, for the sake of your barrel and your sanity DO NOT USE A WOOD DOWEL. NEVER. NEVER.
Wood will break and splinter at almost any resistance and then you will have a piece of wood stuck in the barrel and use language that your mother would not approve of.
No, Cntryboy1289, rod steel is NOT as hard as barrel steel, and will not scratch a barrel or wear it in normal cleaning use. Further, steel is hard enough that it won't pick up grit, something both aluminum and plastic are notorious for.
I do agree that jointed rods are bad and should be used only if necessary. Even then, it is a good idea to round the ends of the sections, especially the female end, so the joints don't nick the barrel. This is not a contradiction of what I said about the rod being softer; wear is one thing, pounding is another.
Jim
Wood will break and splinter at almost any resistance and then you will have a piece of wood stuck in the barrel and use language that your mother would not approve of.
No, Cntryboy1289, rod steel is NOT as hard as barrel steel, and will not scratch a barrel or wear it in normal cleaning use. Further, steel is hard enough that it won't pick up grit, something both aluminum and plastic are notorious for.
I do agree that jointed rods are bad and should be used only if necessary. Even then, it is a good idea to round the ends of the sections, especially the female end, so the joints don't nick the barrel. This is not a contradiction of what I said about the rod being softer; wear is one thing, pounding is another.
Jim
cntryboy1289
New member
one thing
Jim, not to argue with anyone over this, but we have had some rods rockwelled and they were very hard in the 40-45 range. That is very hard and can scratch an average barrel. That may not be true of all rods and I wouldn't believe that it is, but some are very hard.
What I said about the steel causing wear wasn't that it picked up and embedded the grit in it, but rather it would push the grit into the barrel causing the scratch. If it was a lot softer, then the grit would embed in it and do the same thing, but it doesn't have to be embedded in it to cause the scratch.
Jim, not to argue with anyone over this, but we have had some rods rockwelled and they were very hard in the 40-45 range. That is very hard and can scratch an average barrel. That may not be true of all rods and I wouldn't believe that it is, but some are very hard.
What I said about the steel causing wear wasn't that it picked up and embedded the grit in it, but rather it would push the grit into the barrel causing the scratch. If it was a lot softer, then the grit would embed in it and do the same thing, but it doesn't have to be embedded in it to cause the scratch.
OkieCruffler
New member
Getting wood stuck in your barrel isn't the only problem with using a wooden dowel. If you're pushing on that thing when it breaks and it splinters just right you'll (hope I'm using the correct contraction) get a 30cal splinter in your fleshy part. Don't ask how I know.
I only use a bore snake with some Hoppes 9 on my Ruger 10/22 I believe that is enough to clean out my .22 bore I dont like sticking a rod in it. I however bought a .22 caliber rod but use it with a .30 cal brush for the SKS I believe this is probably enough for the SKS this is no precision gun so mabey even just a boresnake for the SKS is good in less im using corrosive ammo. Also you might be able to minimize grit on a coated rod by keeping it in a secure place such as a long plastic bag but I do see your points on grit grinding away at a rifles bore.