T handle for ramrod
- Thread starter rebs
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DD4lifeusmc
New member
kwhi
I got to ask how did the load go off prematurely?
Did the guy cap the nipple first and the hammer drop.
Was there a burning ember left down in the barrel? Which should of ignited the powder almost instantly as it was poured in.
I'm curious here.
otherwise aluminum and brass are both soft metals, I have bent both styles over the years and pulled the threads on both when patches have gotten stuck while cleaning.
so my assumption they are both about the same strength as to pertaining to our needs and uses.
But really nothing wrong in using a T handle. Lot of folks use them, I sold 4 this hunting season so far.
should clarify. sold just the T handles themselves
I got to ask how did the load go off prematurely?
Did the guy cap the nipple first and the hammer drop.
Was there a burning ember left down in the barrel? Which should of ignited the powder almost instantly as it was poured in.
I'm curious here.
otherwise aluminum and brass are both soft metals, I have bent both styles over the years and pulled the threads on both when patches have gotten stuck while cleaning.
so my assumption they are both about the same strength as to pertaining to our needs and uses.
But really nothing wrong in using a T handle. Lot of folks use them, I sold 4 this hunting season so far.
should clarify. sold just the T handles themselves
swathdiver
New member
The other day I was watching an old tv episode with R. Lee Ermey and a fella was demonstrating firing off 8 rounds in 2 minutes with his '61 Springfield. Well, at about the 4th or 5th shot he pours the powder down the barrel an whoosh!, the powder ignited. Undeterred, the reenactor pulled out another cartridge and fired seven rounds in under 2 minutes as his ancestors would have done.
So did the hot barrel contribute to the burning ember being there and setting off the powder?
So did the hot barrel contribute to the burning ember being there and setting off the powder?
A gunsmith at Schupbachs Sporting Goods (Jackson, MI), had a cap lock muzzle loader go off and injure his hand when I was in the shop one day. I asked him about it a few months later and he said that he was attempting to pull a ball with a ball-puller that day. The gun was definitely not capped. I suspect that somehow, the steel screw of the ball-puller caused a spark somehow, or perhaps the owner of the gun had broken-off his ball-puller screw leaving it in the lead ball, where the gunsmith's ball-puller screw came in contact with it. If I were a muzzle loader these days, I would consider a compressed-air ball remover.
bedbugbilly
New member
Personally, I'd never use a T rod or anything that put my hand palm down over the muzzle. In my opinion, just a very unsafe practice.
In an "oversize" muzzle loader - lets use a cannon for example, it is never safe to ram a load by putting your hand over the end of the rammer . . . more than one artilleryman lost their hand and arm that way. A muzzleloading rifle is no different . . . just smaller. To me . . . it sort of ranks up there with looking down the barrel to see if it's loaded. But those are just my opinions and practices of never doing it. YMMV
In an "oversize" muzzle loader - lets use a cannon for example, it is never safe to ram a load by putting your hand over the end of the rammer . . . more than one artilleryman lost their hand and arm that way. A muzzleloading rifle is no different . . . just smaller. To me . . . it sort of ranks up there with looking down the barrel to see if it's loaded. But those are just my opinions and practices of never doing it. YMMV
"This way, the ball will push your hand out of the way in case of a accidental discharge while seating the ball. "
Sure. Any pictures of the hand being gently pushed out of the way like that? Or of the hand afterwards?
After firing a caplock musket or rifle, always leave the hammer down while loading. Cocking the hammer will allow a draft of air through the breech that will fan into flame any smoldering residue and ignite the charge being loaded.
Old timers loading muskets "threw" the rammer, so the hand was out of the way as the charge went down the barrel, or used the little finger (the one that could be most easily spared) to drive the rammer.
I cringe when I see folks with their whole hand wrapped around the rammer, so if the charge does let go, they will lose all their fingers.* Worse are the guys who stand with their heads looking down into the muzzle, though it could be argued that if a ball went through their heads, it wouldn't damage anything important.
*If you think in terms of the rammer being pushed and only something in front of it being affected, let me introduce you to muzzle blast!
Jim
Sure. Any pictures of the hand being gently pushed out of the way like that? Or of the hand afterwards?
After firing a caplock musket or rifle, always leave the hammer down while loading. Cocking the hammer will allow a draft of air through the breech that will fan into flame any smoldering residue and ignite the charge being loaded.
Old timers loading muskets "threw" the rammer, so the hand was out of the way as the charge went down the barrel, or used the little finger (the one that could be most easily spared) to drive the rammer.
I cringe when I see folks with their whole hand wrapped around the rammer, so if the charge does let go, they will lose all their fingers.* Worse are the guys who stand with their heads looking down into the muzzle, though it could be argued that if a ball went through their heads, it wouldn't damage anything important.
*If you think in terms of the rammer being pushed and only something in front of it being affected, let me introduce you to muzzle blast!
Jim
James K
I never said your hand will be gently pushed away. It will probably get bruised
and hurt for a few days. At least you will have a hand and fingers. I knew
when I posted this somebody would want to argue or take offense to it, I'm
sorry now I ever posted it. You all load your rifles anyway you want to.
I never said your hand will be gently pushed away. It will probably get bruised
and hurt for a few days. At least you will have a hand and fingers. I knew
when I posted this somebody would want to argue or take offense to it, I'm
sorry now I ever posted it. You all load your rifles anyway you want to.
swathdiver
New member
Well Phil I appreciate your input and warnings and thank you for all of your posts. You've probably put more rounds through X-Ring than all of us combined in competitions and folks would be wise to listen.
However, we are a disperate bunch of folks, from all over, from all different cultures and ways of thinkin' and they're going to do what they want to do regardless of the right way to do things.
Just think of these folks as the Jews wandering the desert for 40 years and why that was so!
However, we are a disperate bunch of folks, from all over, from all different cultures and ways of thinkin' and they're going to do what they want to do regardless of the right way to do things.
Just think of these folks as the Jews wandering the desert for 40 years and why that was so!
Well, you certainly got me thinking, so thanks for saying it.
As a revolver shooter ramming bullets in isn't a problem, but when I'm pulling out bullets now and then, I take the cylinder out, then use a steel rod with a wooden knob on one end and a screw on the other and pull out the bullets. Is this dangerous? Anyone had the round go off while doing this?
Should I maybe unscrew the nipples and unseat the bullet from the other end?
As a revolver shooter ramming bullets in isn't a problem, but when I'm pulling out bullets now and then, I take the cylinder out, then use a steel rod with a wooden knob on one end and a screw on the other and pull out the bullets. Is this dangerous? Anyone had the round go off while doing this?
Should I maybe unscrew the nipples and unseat the bullet from the other end?
I just screw in a wood screw and use a pair of vice grips to pull the ball with revolvers. Hot embers can linger in a rifle barrel and set the next charge off that's why it's not a good idea to load directly from a flask because no matter how good of a flask you have it's still going to blow up in your hand.
How can I start the ball in the barrel without putting my hand over a bullet seater ? I am seeing where I need more education on muzzle loaders. Can anyone outline the proper procedure for loading a muzzle loader and also the proper way to remove a stuck bullet ?
I was told by a guy at the range that when you have a stuck bullet and want to pull it to first remove the nipple and pour water in the hole to wet the powder so it cannot ignite, is this a safe thing to do ?
Also is there a set amount of time to wait for any embers to cool before loading the next powder and ball ?
Kwhi, I wish you hadn't removed your posts
I was told by a guy at the range that when you have a stuck bullet and want to pull it to first remove the nipple and pour water in the hole to wet the powder so it cannot ignite, is this a safe thing to do ?
Also is there a set amount of time to wait for any embers to cool before loading the next powder and ball ?
Kwhi, I wish you hadn't removed your posts
foolzrushn
New member
In the end...
everyone is just trying to give their best advice to help others, even for those that may read the posts much later. Sometimes the advice will differ, and where safety is concerned, that will elicit strong feelings as it should. I have found that my advice is seldom the best, but I offer it with the best intentions.
Branko--I have a short brass rod small enough to go through the threaded cylinder nipple hole for that purpose. Brass to not scratch anything. I have only needed it once when I forgot the powder. And yes, I probably should have just tried to blow the ball out with the cap... but I had this cool tool that I had made......
rebs--A lot depends on the alloy for your original question. Aluminum will be lighter. For a loading rod to throw and seat a ball, it seems you would need some weight, so maybe brass?
Question--Does anyone attach a short lanyard to grip and pull the loading rod instead of throwing it? Why not?
I thought most folks just smack the ball starter with their hand, safe or not. Guess you could use a hammer.
It would seem to make sense to leave the hammer down to restrict air. But if I had any suspicions about embers, I would want a small plastic squeeze bottle of water to shoot through the nipple, then swab and blow dry before loading.
I don't have a BP long gun so I shouldn't say. Others will.
kwhi-- I enjoy your competition pistol posts, especially the photos of the 'space guns'.
everyone is just trying to give their best advice to help others, even for those that may read the posts much later. Sometimes the advice will differ, and where safety is concerned, that will elicit strong feelings as it should. I have found that my advice is seldom the best, but I offer it with the best intentions.
Branko--I have a short brass rod small enough to go through the threaded cylinder nipple hole for that purpose. Brass to not scratch anything. I have only needed it once when I forgot the powder. And yes, I probably should have just tried to blow the ball out with the cap... but I had this cool tool that I had made......
rebs--A lot depends on the alloy for your original question. Aluminum will be lighter. For a loading rod to throw and seat a ball, it seems you would need some weight, so maybe brass?
Question--Does anyone attach a short lanyard to grip and pull the loading rod instead of throwing it? Why not?
I thought most folks just smack the ball starter with their hand, safe or not. Guess you could use a hammer.
It would seem to make sense to leave the hammer down to restrict air. But if I had any suspicions about embers, I would want a small plastic squeeze bottle of water to shoot through the nipple, then swab and blow dry before loading.
I don't have a BP long gun so I shouldn't say. Others will.
kwhi-- I enjoy your competition pistol posts, especially the photos of the 'space guns'.
foolzrushn
New member
wogpotter or others
so since there is so much space (air) between the ball and powder when it is just at 'ball starter' depth, the ball wouldn't have that much force if embers set it off?
Also, wouldn't the powder be most likely to ignite when you first pour it in the barrel?
so since there is so much space (air) between the ball and powder when it is just at 'ball starter' depth, the ball wouldn't have that much force if embers set it off?
Also, wouldn't the powder be most likely to ignite when you first pour it in the barrel?
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kilimanjaro
New member
Rebs, yes, pouring water into the charge through the nipple aperture is a safe thing to do. However, be aware it may not be enough water to properly cool the barrel or wet the powder completely. Best thing to do is to then set the wetted arm aside for 15 minutes, like any hangfire, and then work on it.
Getting the ball out at the range is probably the best place to do it at, there are others around to render first aid if necessary, but some ranges frown very hard on cleaning or working on the guns on the property.
Getting the ball out at the range is probably the best place to do it at, there are others around to render first aid if necessary, but some ranges frown very hard on cleaning or working on the guns on the property.