SWModel 10
- Thread starter zxc
- Start date
Mark IV Series 80
New member
Revolver Checkout
Jim March wrote a good revolver checkout procedure:
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57816&highlight=revolver+and+checkout
I think that $130 is a great price as long as the Model 10 is in good working order.
-Mk.IV
Jim March wrote a good revolver checkout procedure:
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=57816&highlight=revolver+and+checkout
I think that $130 is a great price as long as the Model 10 is in good working order.
-Mk.IV
There's a way of telling if a model 10 is new enough to take +P .38s. I'm not an expert on classic S&Ws, but I seem to recall that the old "five screw M&Ps" was the "model 10" before it was actually called that. If it was called a "model 10" right when it first shipped, it should have a "10" stamped somewhere inside of the crane, on the part of the frame visible when you swing the cylinder out - and that's a good sign you can shoot at least moderate amounts of +P.
If I'm wrong, I hope to God somebody points it out
.
The 10 is a good, reliable revolver. Tougher than an equivelent Colt of the same period (Diamondback or similar), not quite as accurate but then the Colts were exceptional. That 10 will keep up with just about any modern 9mm in the accuracy department.
If you have a choice, get a "round butt grip" model over a square. I like how the rounds feel, so do many others. If you find you like more of a swell at the base of the grip, Hogue makes grips that convert round-butts into the square-butt feel so if you start with a round, you can go either way.
What else...*definately* run through that checkout procedure on a $130 gun. Check timing and barrel wear as top priorities, minimal cylinder play at full lockup is priority #2, cylinder gap at .005" or .006" is acceptable especially if this is a 4" barrel gun or more. Make sure the ejector star ain't bunged up - having the ejector slip past a shell and end up with the rim under the star REALLY sucks.
Man, that's a good price. Is this by any chance a shooting range rental gun or something? If so, check it out good and if it's a newer model of the type than can handle +P, go for it if it's OK. If it's the older type, you can bet it's still had a pile of +P through it...I'd think very carefully about that situation!
If I'm wrong, I hope to God somebody points it out
.The 10 is a good, reliable revolver. Tougher than an equivelent Colt of the same period (Diamondback or similar), not quite as accurate but then the Colts were exceptional. That 10 will keep up with just about any modern 9mm in the accuracy department.
If you have a choice, get a "round butt grip" model over a square. I like how the rounds feel, so do many others. If you find you like more of a swell at the base of the grip, Hogue makes grips that convert round-butts into the square-butt feel so if you start with a round, you can go either way
.What else...*definately* run through that checkout procedure on a $130 gun. Check timing and barrel wear as top priorities, minimal cylinder play at full lockup is priority #2, cylinder gap at .005" or .006" is acceptable especially if this is a 4" barrel gun or more. Make sure the ejector star ain't bunged up - having the ejector slip past a shell and end up with the rim under the star REALLY sucks
.Man, that's a good price. Is this by any chance a shooting range rental gun or something? If so, check it out good and if it's a newer model of the type than can handle +P, go for it if it's OK. If it's the older type, you can bet it's still had a pile of +P through it...I'd think very carefully about that situation!
We went to +Ps back around 1985.
I remember inspecting both 5 screw models and later "pencil" barrels the old timers carried. The only weapons not authorized when the +Ps were introduced were the alloy frame off duty guns. Some retired guys would pass these older guns to their sons/daughters and they would not be authorized for duty/off duty use.
The first heavy barrel 10s we used were "C" models. Not the correct description but an in house designation. It meant serial #s beginning with C. IOW, Cxxxxx. Mine is a "D" model. I don`t recall any Es and later serial #s were 6Dxxxx and 9Dxxxxx, all being heavy barrels. I believe it was the in the 6D series that there was a batch with bad bluing. S&W had to take them back for refinishing.
The round butt 4" came into play about this time. A lot of the women liked them because they fit smaller hands better.
After that we went to SS DAO but I don`t recall the serial #s.
Kind of surprised that people will pay that much. I paid $65 for mine. Wish I still had the box although I`ll never sell it.
I remember inspecting both 5 screw models and later "pencil" barrels the old timers carried. The only weapons not authorized when the +Ps were introduced were the alloy frame off duty guns. Some retired guys would pass these older guns to their sons/daughters and they would not be authorized for duty/off duty use.
The first heavy barrel 10s we used were "C" models. Not the correct description but an in house designation. It meant serial #s beginning with C. IOW, Cxxxxx. Mine is a "D" model. I don`t recall any Es and later serial #s were 6Dxxxx and 9Dxxxxx, all being heavy barrels. I believe it was the in the 6D series that there was a batch with bad bluing. S&W had to take them back for refinishing.
The round butt 4" came into play about this time. A lot of the women liked them because they fit smaller hands better.
After that we went to SS DAO but I don`t recall the serial #s.
Kind of surprised that people will pay that much. I paid $65 for mine. Wish I still had the box although I`ll never sell it.
Mike Irwin
Staff
If it's a 4 or 5 screw, I wouldn't put too many +P rounds through it at all.
If it's a 3 screw, it will be able to handle a larger diet of +Ps, but some of the early 3 screws still should not be fed a large diet of +Ps.
I'll check my books this evening.
If it's a 3 screw, it will be able to handle a larger diet of +Ps, but some of the early 3 screws still should not be fed a large diet of +Ps.
I'll check my books this evening.
Actually, when the Military & Police (precursor to the M10) came out in 1899 it was only available in round butt.
Square butt was introduced in the Model of 1902, 1st Change between s/n 33804-62449 around 1903-4.
Square was more popular for many years, and just in the late 1990's S&W went back to the round butt as a cost-cutting measure.
-Kframe
Square butt was introduced in the Model of 1902, 1st Change between s/n 33804-62449 around 1903-4.
Square was more popular for many years, and just in the late 1990's S&W went back to the round butt as a cost-cutting measure.
-Kframe
revolvergeek
New member
If this gun checks out ok once you go through Jim's list, I would grab it for $130! Very dependable, solid gun that works fine for carry, target, housegun, whatever. Impossible to regret.
Smith and Wesson did NOT begin heat treating the .38 Special cylinders until about the same time as they started using model numbers. A general rule of thumb on this is that ONLY steel framed, model numbered guns should be used with +P. NO five screw .38 Special K frame guns should ever be used with +P ammo unless the cylinder has been replaced with a modern one. The round butt was officially "introduced" for the Military and Police guns in 1947 according to the Standard Catalogue. They were fairly rare in the intiial M&P guns and are a bit harder to find. As KFrame indicates, original issue of this model was a round butt, but when they went to the square butt initially, they discontinued the round butt until 1947 (approximately).
Interesting about the round butt 10.
We never had them until the 80`s. Normally you bought your weapon at the equipment section. They had what was authorized and they only carried square butts. I never saw a round butt 10 until 1986 I think.
You could supply your own weapon if it conformed to dep`t regs. It just had to be tested and inspected. The equipment section also carried square butt 36`s but we were authorized to have the round butt models too.
We never had them until the 80`s. Normally you bought your weapon at the equipment section. They had what was authorized and they only carried square butts. I never saw a round butt 10 until 1986 I think.
You could supply your own weapon if it conformed to dep`t regs. It just had to be tested and inspected. The equipment section also carried square butt 36`s but we were authorized to have the round butt models too.
Al Thompson
Staff Alumnus
Looks like one of those regional differences - I'll buy any M10 or S&W revolver for that matter at $100 a pop. For the South Carolina area, they are running about 175 (great price) and up - even police trade ins...
Giz
Giz
To elaborate further on Mike Irwin's excellant reservation about +p loads, even if it's a three screw, I wouldn't put +p through it without first contacting the factory to determine when it was made. Any pre-84 gun isn't rated for a steady diet of +p and you can find your gun rattling apart (or worse).