Swivel stud screw too long for front of Marlin 60 stock... help please?

E

Everymanalion

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Just as the title says, the bolt/screw that goes on the front of the rifle on my Marlin 60w to install a sling mount is wayyyy too long, this is my first attempt to modify any rifle I have beyond basic stuff and I am stumped, I bought the Blackhawk! swivel studs+hardware at Walmart for rifles but im curious if I take this back, do gun shops usually carry smaller hardware so I can DIY this?

I really do not want to cut the screw because I read you can mess the threading up but Marlin really gave me no leeway because the front of the stock is so damn skinny, any advice is appreciated, thank you.
 
Poor man's custom stud cut as follows. Thread a nut on the screw. Cut the screw with bolt cutters, hacksaw, visegrips with a cutter in the jaw, or whatever you have. File the screw flat holding it with pliers, bevel the edges. Partially remove the nut and work the cut area with the threads in the nut. Touch up with a marksalot. It worked on the swivel stud I cut for my ar bipod mounting. KUSTOM!!! But it does work.
 
Zach is right. The key to getting a clean cut on a screw thread is to put the nut on before you cut it off and use the nut as a thread chaser.
 
I did not want to recommend a power tool. A Dremel wood do the job faster, better, and easier. You may bleed though.
 
I don't have a Marlin 60 to examine, but since that rifle has a tubular magazine, the foreend wood might not be thick enough to seat the standard nut, so you might be forced to use a swivel mounted on the magazine tube ahead of the stock. It would be better to do that than take a chance on having the foreend wood break out.

Jim
 
I don't have the model 60 but I have a Marlin 983s 22 magnum tube feed and it uses a threaded insert instead of drilling a hole and sinking that nut in the wood.

#56.
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufac...33379/Rifles-37333/983S-39093.htm?results=All

And I bet you could just run to the hardware store and get tee nut to do the job.

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There is a swivel that mounts to the magazine tube.
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I have one of those on my Glenfield 60, and am not completely satisfied with it. It doesn't clamp down tight enough to keep from moving around, and sliding up and down the tube.
 
Nothing wrong with the tube studs.!!!

It doesn't clamp down tight enough to keep from moving around, and sliding up and down the tube.
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I have mounted many of these Uncle Mike's, on the feed-tube and it takes little prep to insure that they don't move around. Under normal conditions this end sees little or no damaging forces. Same goes if you want to install a stud, through the forend.

To date, I have never installed a forend stud, on a 60 or Glendfield but feel that their is plenty of meat up there to support one. No wood-screw type studs on any forends and instead, use the "short" machine screw stud or cut down a long one. Providing support washers, is an option .... :)
Might also add that many have gone to a laminated stock, which can present new challenges.

Be Safe !!!
 
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I have mounted many of these Uncle Mike's, on the feed-tube and it takes little prep to insure that they don't move around.
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So what "little prep" did I miss other than tightening the screw as tight as I dared to without breaking it?
 
Another use for Scotch-33

So what "little prep" did I miss
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I can't really say as I don't know what your did. However, these clamps come in different sizes and some if not all, are supplied with a lining material. I have used strips of electrical tape, like Scotch-33. The take sticks to the tuber and the clamp, bights into the tape. I initially used tape to keep the tube from being marred, then could see how tight it was. As I stated before, there should not be that many forces working on this area. I might also add that I have never seen a damaged tube but it certainly could happen. .... :confused:

Be Safe !!!
 
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