SW610 10mm jamming

Z

zad2710

Inactive
Purchased a new S&W 610 in 10mm/.40 about three weeks ago. Every time I've been to the range with it I always have at least a few jams which involve the following:

1. It always happens sometime after the first shot
2. After firing and releasing the trigger, it is impossible to pull again... the hammer seems locked (almost as if it was stuck in the primer), and the cylinder will not turn.
3. If i release all pressure off the trigger and try to pull it again, sometimes it will fire, sometimes it stays jammed.
4. The only solution i've found so far is to jiggle the cylinder a few times, and then it usually unsticks allowing me to open and continue

I've checked all the moon clips and none of them are bent... honestly, i don't really know what to do or check next and it's not much fun having a 50oz revolver that jams once every 12-16 shots.

Any help that anyone could proved whould be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

James
 
I had a similar problem with a Ruger Vaquero chambered in 38-40/40 S&W.

The problem was that the cartridges were not seating down all the way in the cylinder, and they were binding on the inside of the back of the frame.

If you have your gun loaded but unfired, are you able to thumb the hammer back, and release it with the trigger for all 6 rounds (i mean, can u work the action 6 times with it loaded)? Does anything feel like its binding when you do that? Be careful not to shoot something important while you try that test.
 
S&W revolvers are well known for having the ejector rod back out on them, which will bind it up. Do you have any problems with the cylinder not opening after you have this problem?
 
One good thing, S&W has an outstanding Service Dept. The few times I've need their help they quickly fixed the problem. They were also nice to deal with. I was able to talk to the gentleman who was going to do the work on my pistol.

I suggest you give S&W a call and let them fix your 610.

Good luck,
Rich
 
I had similar symptoms in mine.

The problem was that I was getting pierced primers, which I've since blamed on the ammunition (it was factory, not reloads).

The pierced primers burned up the tip of the firing pin.

If you want to check your pin, open the cylinder and swing it out. Pull back on the thumb latch, and then pull the trigger and hold it back. This will keep the firing pin out where you can give it a good look.
 
What? You must be mistaken... revolvers don't jam! Just read any "this revolver vs. that semi" thread ;) :D :cool:

Has it had a lot of .40 fired through it? I'm no expert, or even a decent novice, but I read a few threads in "the 10 ring" on GlockTalk about shooting .40's in the 10mm revo's causing them to lockup... don't remember why.
 
In my case, it wasn't a lot of .40.

The problem I had has put me right off of using .40 in my 610. I've had no problems at all with 10mm, and plan to stay with that, at least for the near future.

I posted over in GlockTalk's 10-ring, so maybe that's what you're remembering reading.
 
S&W 610 10mm jamming

Sorry to hear about the problem with the 610. I also have this revolver and have found that this particular revolver does not like S&B Brass. For some reason or another the moon clips are not able to sit close enough to the rear of the cylinder which prohibits the the cylinder from revolving and/or the cylinder to be closed. Hope this may help in the future.

John
 
Sorry to hear problems with your 610s.

My 610 Classic with a 6.5 inch barrel has eaten it all.

10mm, 40SW, LSWCs and so forth.

I'd disassemble the cylinder assembly and re-assemble.

AAMOF I'm busting out the 610 for a local steel plates shoot. Several 625s and some Vaqueros but no 610s until mine;)

Be shooting some 155 grain flatpoints lightloaded for speed.
 
It happened to my new 4" 610 today. I fired 50 rounds of UMC 180 gr. !0mm without a hitch. Then loaded 6 rounds of WW 175 gr. Silvertip. After the 3rd round, the hammer would not come back and the cylinder could not be released. I jiggled it for a minute and it came loose. The moon clip with 3 fired and 3 unfired rounds ejected easily. Primers showed hardly any pressure signs, and looked exactly like the UMC fired primers. Tried another 6 Silvertips. Same thing happened on the 4th round. Fiddled with it until it opened and took a break to think it over. Checked the ejector rod - tight. Checked the firing pin - normal. No pressure signs. Loaded 6 rounds of Silvertip and gave the gun to my buddy. He fired 6 rounds without trouble so I told him to cock it one more time. Locked up again. I'm thinking it has to do with the gun being hot.

I'll call the factory tomorrow.

BTW, I did experience the pierced primers with .40 caliber Blazers. Stopped shooting after the first pierced primer.

Any thoughts?

God bless. Hugh
 
huge, sounds as if we both have the exact same problem...

let me know if you find a solution... I'm planning on calling S&W when work slows down a bit.

James
 
zad2710 - I received a lot of helpful hints on the Smith & Wesson forum. It looks like the rebound spring had been altered, resulting the in the failure of the trigger to reset. My gun wasn't new, so I don't know what had been done under the sideplate before I got it. I do know that it had a very light SA and DA trigger pull. As a test, I substituted a Wolff 15# rebound spring and made certain the strain screw was tight. The action is now noticeably heavier in both DA and SA mode, leading me to suspect that it had been tweeked before I got it. That doesn't explain the failures on your factory new gun, however.

I'll try to run some loads through it Monday or Tuesday and report back. Please let me know what the factory says.

I really want to get this revolver working. I like it a bunch.

Thanks and God bless,

Hugh
 
I have not experienced any of the hang up problems with my 610 revo with either .40's or full up 10 mm ammo, new or reloads. However, I have experienced this problem with both a Model 19 and a Python. The Model 19 had an Extractor Rod back out issue which was fixed by using a little extra torque on reassembly (NOT MUCH MORE OR YOU'LL STRIP IT!). The Python had lead buildup at the forcing cone. After a few rounds it would not budge. Extra careful cleaning with a good bronze brush there and the face of the cylinder solved the problem. (The solution was suggested here on TFL when I posted the problem some time ago).
 
I contacted S&W for a different problem with my 610. It was made in 1990 and I am the second owner, that I know of. Smith not only fixed the problem BUT covered shipping both ways. Give Customer Service a try.
 
3 things cause this.

Two have been covered- the loose ejector rod & pierced primers (don't use Blasers in a 610.)

Number three is crud/muck/oil under the ejector star. Clean the snot out of the face of the cylinder & front of star then dry it. Never oil it, keep it clean & dry. Keep a toothbrush in your kit to clean it. I had this happen on a 3" 610. after i learned this I never had another problem.

X
 
I had a brand new 629 that did that. Turns out there was a bur near the extractor star that was hanging stuff up and causing it to jam.
Five minutes with a stone at the gunsmiths shop and it never happened again.
Later, my girlfriend at the time had the gun customized for me which included a lot of work on the internals and stuff and tightening the gap between barrel/forcing cone and cylinder face.
Guess what?
It started jamming again after being fired .The residue would bind up the rotation of the cylinder....
 
With the cylinder open, make sure that the extractor pin is fully extended. Then try pushing it in to make sure it pushes in and pops back up without any hangup. If the pin does not fully seat with the cylinder closed, the gun is not locked up and the cylinder will not advance.
 
Have the ejection port lowered and flared, a titanium firing pin with a lower power mainspring installed... :rolleyes:

Oh, SHOOT! Its a wheel gun aint it? Sorry, can't help!

Send it back to S & W!!! They are awesome!

I sent back a mod 60 that came out of time, and told them that I really liked shiny finishes. I asked about polishing my gat and how much it would cost.
Three weeks later it came back timed and looking pretty glossy! :cool:
It's got a lifetime warranty, look into it!

Oh, it did'nt cost anything but shipping costs!
 
Another common reason for "jammed" S&W revolvers is that the bolt is too tight.
Remove it and check for clearance in the locking notches. It has to fit just right.

Sam
 
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