SW vs. Ruger revolvers

scout 1

New member
Being somewhat new to using revolvers, was wondering which would be the better choice for competition(IDPA) and defense. SW 66 or Ruger GP100, both with 4" barrels?
 
That's a tough call. IMO, the *&* would have the edge due to a much smoother action, out-of-the-box, which can be smoothed up even further as your skill grows. It is also not nearly as heavy in the hand as the GP100. You also will be firing reasonably light loads, which won't exert as much wear and tear over time. Make no mistake, it can and does handle all .357 fodder well, but modern loads due tax it somewhat.

The fact is, though, that the Ruger will be tougher, heavier, and able to withstand the outer limits of handloading experimentation that quickly cause much needed repair and service on the K-frame. The trade-off is a heavier(usually) trigger which is known for not being as smooth(usually). :)
 
VictoLouis said it well. I agree. I have a pre sellout M66 6" that I really like.
I use mostly .38 wadcutters but the 158 gr .357 shoots to same point of aim for me.
Also, I have read that the 158 gr .357 is much easier on the gun than the 125 gr super blasters.
I have a bunch of Smiths. Like em all. Damn their eyes for making it hard to say they are good.
 
I say go with the Smith....but either way go for a used gun. Smith and Rugher both sold us out. Smith twice, once with the hi-cap magazines and now with their famous contract with the devil...er guvmint.

Sam....If it ain't broke, must not be mine.
 
Most has allready been said except for on ething.The ruger recovery between shoots is slower.The barrel is higher above the grip making it flip more.I would choose a USED S&W everytime over the ruger.

------------------
Bob--- Age and deceit will overcome youth and speed.
I'm old and deceitful.
 
I guess I'm the odd man out so far. I was choosing between a GP100 stainless with 4" fully lugged barrel and a blue S&W Model 19 in the same configuration.

I chose the Ruger.

I liked the feel of the grip substantially more on the Ruger, I liked the single-action trigger pull on the Ruger, and I loved the stainless finish.

I also liked saving $100.

The Smith had a better double action trigger, but I seldom shoot double action.

500 rounds or so later, no regrets. The Ruger's a better shot than I am and it's as rugged as it is pretty.

Just my two cents.

------------------
Take the long way home...
 
Personally, I prefer the triggers of S&W over Ruger. But I think a better choice than a Model 19/66 would be a 625 in 45 ACP. Reloading with stripper clips is much faster than speedloaders. From what I understand, many (most?) of the folks that compete in IDPA with revolvers use a 625.

M1911
 
Go with the Smith. No one who shoots competition with a revo shoots ruger. The model 66 is stainless and it is almost impossible to get as good a double action pull on the ruger as you can get on the Smith, and if you are shooting combat competition and for self-defense you will probably never drop the hammer in single action.

[This message has been edited by AZTrooper (edited October 11, 2000).]
 
Comparing the GP100 to the M66 doesn't make sense.

The K-frame is designed for .38 Special and lesser calibers.
The .357 K-frame, although a nice carry gun, just isn't meant to handle tens of thousands of 125gr 357 JHP's.

That's what S&W designed the M586 series for, ultimately evolving into the M686Plus.

A seven shot 357 that is as tough as the Ruger, but lighter (by about 6 oz IIRC) and with a superior trigger pull out of the box.

So, if you compare the GP100 and the M66 it is not a fair contest.

Go with the Smith, make it a used M686.

-Kframe

[This message has been edited by Kframe (edited October 11, 2000).]
 
I have about 1200 rds though my Ruger. It hasnt lossened up a bit. I can say Im happy with it. I did have to put Wolff springs in it and polish the internals.

I doubt if you can ever get a good SW and smoth as a RUger, just due to the different type mainsprings.

One thing I noticed with newer SW is a little lack of workmanship. A marred grip screw of a scratched frame. Maybe no one makes guns like they used to.

I would have to get a SW 686 and work on the trigger to see if I really liked it more than my Ruger.

An edge goes to the Ruger when taking it apart, once you learn it real easy. No SW sideplates or screws to goof up. The rebound slide is also hard to work on.
 
I second the vote for the 686. I have one with a 4" barrel, and it is one sweet gun. Good balance, smooth trigger, very accurate. I see lots advertised on auctions and classifieds on the web, so you could easily get a good used one.
 
Get a S&W 686. They are plentiful enough that you won't have trouble finding a pre-agreement sample, if that is important to you. I've had one for years, used it as a duty gun, and hunted with it. Great trigger, very accurate, no durability concerns.
 
I agree with the majority here. You cant go wrong with the 686+. I have one with the 2 1/2" barrel which was my very first handgun purchase. In fact I let the wife pick it out and at first I didnt want the 686. I wanted a model 60. But now I am glad she picked the 686+. We bought it used in great shape and it has caused me to become a real Wheelgun fan!

However, there is one point that I need to share before you make your decission and it is with regards to shooting IDPA!

I started IDPA this year after I stumbled across their web site. The ONLY problem with using the 686+ in IDPA (and this sucks) is the fact that you can only use 6 rounds per the rules! It can be a pain doing reloads because you have to line up the empty cylinder which can slow your time down. I have written the IDPA regarding this rule with the hope that there can be some change but I have not heard nothing as of yet. Resticting me to 6 rounds defeats the purpose of IDPA because in real life I would not load only 6 rounds. So it is very IMPRACTICAL!

My hope is that they will change the rule to allow us a full load of 7 before the spring season. If not now, I do belive it will be in the real near future. So concider the 686+. Its a great piece.

BTW: You can do some shopping at http://www.gunbroker.com You can get stuff at some great prices there!



------------------
Posigian
posigian@provide.net
I AM THE NRA
 
My vote is for the GP100. Spend the money you saved on a trigger job and some ammo, then you will have Ruger strength and a good trigger. I think the weight difference between the GP and the 686 is only 1-2 oz. There has been a lot of comparison of these two, and it's just a matter of preference, not quality, so try them out if you can. The 66 can't hold up as well as the GP100. That I know.
 
I've owned both S&W's and Rugers and I prefer Rugers. The ONLY advantage of a S&W is a superior out of the box trigger. In all other areas, the Ruger is far better. If you get a trigger/action job on the Ruger, there is no comparison. Here is why I like the Rugers better (the following is a brief list of Ruger advantages IMO): easier/quicker to operate cylinder release button (bush button on Ruger), superior durability with heavy loads, slightly better accuracy, lighter recoil which leads to quicker follow up shots(due to heavier design and nice grip ergonomics), easy to disasemble into sub-units, double locking on the cylinder (more strength), and so on. Once you get the trigger/action smoothed up on a Ruger (the only unacceptable part of a Ruger), you have an excellent revolver. Like one other poster said, use the money you save buying the Ruger(Rugers are less than S&W's) to get an action job...then your all set up!
 
Back
Top