SVT 40 Bolt Jammed

T

tbinder

New member
Hello All,
While shooting my SVT 40 the bolt failed to retract and eject the shell casing. The casing is stuck in the chamber. I cannot retract the bolt manually since the extractor hook has engaged the rim of the shell. What is the recommended way to properly remove casing? Should I just take a cleaning rod and gently tap out the casing? The bolt will retract about 3/8 of an inch. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated. Thanks!
 
If the bolt carrier will come back 3/8 -1/2 inch, the bolt is unlocking. I would disassemble the rifle, removing the receiver cover and bolt carrier spring. Then, with no spring keeping the carrier forward, retract the carrier as far as it will go. Looking under the rear of the carrier you should see the bolt itself unlock.

Holding the carrier to the rear to keep the bolt unlocked, insert a steel or brass rod into the muzzle and into the fired case. A light tap should drive the case out and the bolt back.

Then try to figure out what went wrong; ammo is a good bet.

Jim
 
Thanks Jim

Exactly what the patient needed. Followed your instructions and a very light tap was all that was needed to extract the spent casing. I read the Soviet service manual and it calls to lightly oil the cartridges with a rag. I'll need to experiement with the gas port setting. BTW - I was using milsurplus ammo. Thanks for the advice - it really helped.
 
Glad to be of help. I didn't concur with Wildalaska's advice for the simple reason that while SVT 40's are hard to come by, gunsmiths who know, or have even heard of the rifles are a lot harder to come by.

BTW, they are not THAT fragile!

Jim
 
I spent a little time at the range and the SVT worked perfectly. A friend recommended that I check the gas setting and clean the chamber after every few magazines. No problems.
 
SVT-40 Ammuniton Sensitivity

I like shooting my SVT-40. I did fine that my rifle malfunctioned alot when I fired ammo with brass cases. I had fewer malfunctions firing Winchesters 7.62x54R brass cased ammo than all other manufacturers. Then I started to fire the Russian steel cased ammo and had no problems at all. The softness of the brass seems to off set the timming of the weapon. The steel cased ammo is corrosively primed. So clean your weapon after firing, Just thought I would pass this information on. Thanks.

williamr
 
svt-40's arent that hard to come by at all, i've got 3 and none cost me over 600 bucks. and i really disagree with the "fragile" part. they are a bit light on the barrel, and the 4 piece stock (upper, lower, and 2 metal cover things) is the only thing i would change really. other than that it's as tough as a garand, less parts too. thank god the russians never used those. i had an extractor pop out once, but it's not like it wasnt hard to get another one off of numerich gunparts. i've never had any probs with the surplus corrosive stuff, i just swish everything out with a bit of ammonia to neutralize all the salty stuff. i thought about getting one of those "gas port adjustment tools", but they cost like 50 bucks each, so it's just easier to use a wrench on the port (the part that the piston covers) just screw it out a little bit, then the port adjuster is easily manipulated; just turn it to whatever setting you want to try out, then tighten the port back up. i've found that the 1.3 setting works perfect with all different kinds of ammo, czek, yugo, bulg, ukra. that and i think the steel cased ammo works better with the fluting in the chamber neck. i'm not sure.
 
yeah i've never heard of oiling the cases, i thought thats what the fluting was for. to help extraction or something. maybe theyre talking about if its during winter, and condensation gathers on the ammo? then i would understand about maybe using a dash of diesel/oil. that would work. but to counteract the "back-thrust" just lower the gas port setting.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top