I just recently bought a DE44. The guy I bought it from said it was new and he never shot the gun before and it has been sitting in his safe ever since he purchased the gun. When we went to the local gun store to do the transfer papers the employee's noticed that there was some surface rust on the gun. They told me to use CLP and some steel wool to clean. I been hearing a lot of ways to get the rust off. I've read people using WD-40. Also the employee's at the gun store told me to break down the gun and soak the parts in gasoline? I need some help here on how to get this rust off my DE44. I cleaned it once and planning on clean it a couple more times to try to get the rust off.
surface rust
- Thread starter XIXDE44
- Start date
Bill DeShivs
New member
Soak the rust with WD 40, then wipe dry with a cloth. GENTLY scrub the rusted area with 0000 steel wool. Wipe the steel wool fibers off the metal. Then apply WD 40 again, and scrub with a paper towel.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Overnight is good.
Walklightly
Moderator
DE44
You made me feel stupid, I learned how to spell DE44 now. It's called a Desert Eagle 44 Magmun.
You made me feel stupid, I learned how to spell DE44 now. It's called a Desert Eagle 44 Magmun.
oldmaster111
New member
Another good way to remove surface rust is with a sharpened wood dowel. Steel wool, if pressed too hard, may remove more than you want. The dowel trick is time consuming but will leave all the blue on the gun.
Yeah the first thing I did was clean it with CLP. The second day I went to Home Depot and bought some 0000 steel wool and cleaned the gun once more. Few days later, I bought some Flitz wax and waxed the gun. The wax actually took off more rust. The gun looks 100 times better than the day I bought it home.
RimfireRat
Inactive
WD-40 Won't Stop Rust You'll Have to Reoil- MP-5 Oil
This stuff bonds with the metal at the molcular level (metalophic) metal
seeking.leaves no noticable coating. from the bottle>MP-5 Oil,the top rated
formula in lab and field testsfor prevention of corrosion.it's
metalophic(MP) polarized moleculesseek metal and repel water,penerating
rather than trapping moisture. Lubercates and protects,neutralizes sweat
and salt. Penterates into smallest crevices. Dries to a thin,non
gumming,lubercating film which lasts through indefinate storage. Harmless to
steel,non-ferrous metals,wood,seal,and leather. apply to external parts and
bore. Yrs back 35 yrs back i used to use wd-40 untill a revenue
agent brought her revolver into the shop one day . it would not work in
single or double action,it was frozen-up. we took the side palte off and the
insides looked like corn flakes,,(rust) When questioned she told us she
would spray it with wd 40 and wipe it down at the end of her shift. the
WD-40 washed all protecting lube from the gun and left it expoased to crusty
rusty, i by the stuff by the gallon ,but it only touches my guns as a lub
with 000 steel wool to remove surface rust on used guns i want to restore.
Try this stuff and you will never go back. there is not much i put my faith
in today but this stuff hasn't been messed with or screwed up since I got my
first bottle back in 83. I'm familar with the CRC name in automotive
solutions as carb cleaner etc. Beleive me with all the toys i have i don't
want to have to be wiping them down every other month. this stuff is
awesome. I have stripped and reassembled bolts with just a coating of this
on them and for yrs in single digit weather never had one stiffen and miss
fire. A 4oz bottle was only around $5.00 the last time i
got some.and it takes so little you can apply witha Q tip. It's no longer made by Beeman ,ck the Air gun sites ,still around $5.00 but out of stock many places ~~RR~~ http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Air_Venturi_MP_5_Metalophilic_Oil_4oz/612
This stuff bonds with the metal at the molcular level (metalophic) metal
seeking.leaves no noticable coating. from the bottle>MP-5 Oil,the top rated
formula in lab and field testsfor prevention of corrosion.it's
metalophic(MP) polarized moleculesseek metal and repel water,penerating
rather than trapping moisture. Lubercates and protects,neutralizes sweat
and salt. Penterates into smallest crevices. Dries to a thin,non
gumming,lubercating film which lasts through indefinate storage. Harmless to
steel,non-ferrous metals,wood,seal,and leather. apply to external parts and
bore. Yrs back 35 yrs back i used to use wd-40 untill a revenue
agent brought her revolver into the shop one day . it would not work in
single or double action,it was frozen-up. we took the side palte off and the
insides looked like corn flakes,,(rust) When questioned she told us she
would spray it with wd 40 and wipe it down at the end of her shift. the
WD-40 washed all protecting lube from the gun and left it expoased to crusty
rusty, i by the stuff by the gallon ,but it only touches my guns as a lub
with 000 steel wool to remove surface rust on used guns i want to restore.
Try this stuff and you will never go back. there is not much i put my faith
in today but this stuff hasn't been messed with or screwed up since I got my
first bottle back in 83. I'm familar with the CRC name in automotive
solutions as carb cleaner etc. Beleive me with all the toys i have i don't
want to have to be wiping them down every other month. this stuff is
awesome. I have stripped and reassembled bolts with just a coating of this
on them and for yrs in single digit weather never had one stiffen and miss
fire. A 4oz bottle was only around $5.00 the last time i
got some.and it takes so little you can apply witha Q tip. It's no longer made by Beeman ,ck the Air gun sites ,still around $5.00 but out of stock many places ~~RR~~ http://www.pyramydair.com/s/a/Air_Venturi_MP_5_Metalophilic_Oil_4oz/612
Might want to try Penetro 90
http://www.schaefferoil.com/penetro-oil.html
It is specifically designed to lift rust.
http://www.schaefferoil.com/penetro-oil.html
It is specifically designed to lift rust.
Bill DeShivs
New member
Caution- Naval Jelly will remove bluing immediately!
There are touch-up bluing products that work pretty well. They go on cold and you can vary the degree of bluing you want, although it won't produce a factory new finish. The one I have used comes in a small tube and is about the consistency of shampoo.
How nice the result is will depend on where the bare spots are you want to re-blue. If it is on a complex curved surface, like the trigger guard or the grip, you can put a little more effort into removing the rust and pits but if it's on a flat surface, it's hard to do a good job at home. Still, it's a good idea to touch up the spots anyway and the appearance will be improved.
How nice the result is will depend on where the bare spots are you want to re-blue. If it is on a complex curved surface, like the trigger guard or the grip, you can put a little more effort into removing the rust and pits but if it's on a flat surface, it's hard to do a good job at home. Still, it's a good idea to touch up the spots anyway and the appearance will be improved.
I never use WD-40, nor is it near any of my guns. Alert! Alert! Opinion follows. WD-40 is not a good lubricant, penetrant, rust disolver, or anything else. It is my opinion that WD-40 is a water displacing product, period. I have specific oils for penetrating, Kroil and PB Blaster, lubricating, too many to list, and for rust disolving I use 0000 Steel wool with a 3 in 1 type of oil on it. I don't rub it into blued steel - more like gently massage it. I want to lift the oil but leave the underlying surface scratch free with its bluing intact.