Any 9mm or .45 silencer that's strong enough would work on a .357 if the barrel was threaded. And any 9mm or .45 silencer would work with .38 Special. That said, nobody makes threaded barrel revolvers that I know of, so you'd have to get the barrel threaded. And then it would still be a lot louder than the equivalent semi-auto due to all the gasses escaping at the cylinder/barrel gap.
For that reason, virtually nobody puts silencers on revolvers. I'm somewhat of a silencer enthusiast, and the only suppressed revolver I've ever seen was a Nagant revolver with an AWC silencer on it, and that revolver is unique in that the cylinder moves forward against the forcing cone when firing. That movement, combined with ammo that has an extra-long case that seals to the forcing cone, allows the Nagant's barrel/cylinder gap to seal during firing. The original purpose of this was to increase muzzle velocity, but it also allows the Nagant to work fairly well as a silencer host once you thread it.
Over the years, various governments have experimented with custom silenced revolvers; the thinking was that if you could minimize the blast coming out of the barrel/cylinder gap, you'd have a suppressed weapon that didn't have the action noise or ejection of a semi-auto pistol. These custom revolvers often had shrouded cylinder/barrel gaps or cylinders that moved forward like the Nagant. But these never really caught on, and that's why pretty much no one uses suppressed revolvers these days unless they have a Nagant revolver with a threaded barrel and they can find/make ammo for it.
And if you have a semi-auto with a silencer and you want to be extra-quiet, just hold your support thumb securely against the back of the slide. On most locked-breech semi-autos, this takes less pressure than you think and it doesn't hurt at all. When I do it with my Glock 19 the action stays locked and my thumb is fine.
