Suppressor Cleaning ??

R

reaper715

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I Have An Advanced Armament Pilot 22 Cal Can That I Need To Clean. How And What Do You Use ? I Bought Some Of That Kano Labs Kroil. The Book That Came With The Can Said It Looked Promising But I Don't Want To Mess Up My Investment. Has Anyone Used This Kroil On Their Can And Did It Work ?

Thanks
 
Kroil is a penetrating oil that precision target shooters use with JB paste to clean their barrels for super accuracy. It won't hurt aluminum but Slip2000 makes some great cleaning and lubing products that might be better suited for your needs. They make a carbon cutter that a lot of guys use and love for cleaning situations just like yours. An internet search on slip2000 carbon cutter and even kroil will provide you with a lot of info, google them.
 
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Go get a gallon of wd 40 at the local auto parts store. Get a bucket a little bigger then the suppressor that seals well. Put the suppressor in it add enough wd40 to cover it. Give it a good shake and let it sit overnight then re shake and remove. Wrap in a old towel and shake or blow it out with an air compressor. I have used this method for many years and it works great. Do not use WATER it will screw up the aluminum. As for any wd40 left in thew suppressor it will go away when you start firing a few rounds through it.

Travis
 
+1 to Travismaine. WD-40 works probably the best. The other alternative I have seen (and is recommended by Gemtech) is a solution of 1 part Automatic Transmission Fluid and 2 parts Mineral Spirits. I haven't used this one, but I use the WD-40 after every 500 rounds or so.
 
+1 to Travismaine. WD-40 works probably the best. The other alternative I have seen (and is recommended by Gemtech) is a solution of 1 part Automatic Transmission Fluid and 2 parts Mineral Spirits. I haven't used this one, but I use the WD-40 after every 500 rounds or so.
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The tranny fluid mineral spirits thing does not work ad good as wd40 does plus it is a pain in the ass to clean up. I tried it a few times. WD40 is easy cheap and works great. I also would add that for my outback2 I use a little juice bottle for soaking the wide mouth works perfect.

Travis
 
That's why I use cans with threaded end caps.:D Just screw them apart, take everything out and brush it good.
 
That's why I use cans with threaded end caps. Just screw them apart, take everything out and brush it good.
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Not all suppressors come apart. I have a few that do come apart but clean them the same way in the wd40. I have put thousands of rounds through them and have had no problems. It is a simple easy to get the job done.

Travis
 
Try soaking it in Slip or pure ATF.
Being a 22 can, you'll want to clean it, not sure why they crank out non disassembly 22 cans.
 
Being a 22 can, you'll want to clean it, not sure why they crank out non disassembly 22 cans.
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The reason is simple. A good 22 can is made to small tolerances. The baffles are fitted in a certain order. If you where to disassemble a suppressor and place a baffle in the wrong order or the wrong way you could cause a baffle strike making your suppressor a NFA registered paperweight. FYI all suppressors can be taken apart if you have the correct information on how to do it. The fact remains there is simply no need to.

Travis
 
The reason is simple. A good 22 can is made to small tolerances. The baffles are fitted in a certain order. If you where to disassemble a suppressor and place a baffle in the wrong order or the wrong way you could cause a baffle strike making your suppressor a NFA registered paperweight. FYI all suppressors can be taken apart if you have the correct information on how to do it. The fact remains there is simply no need to.
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I'm going to disagree here. I've made them for .22s and for .308s and the tolerances are the same. A .22 doesn't require any extremely tight tolerances. For the baffle to body clearance usually around + or - .002 is good to go. I make the baffles + or - .001 on the length which gives me .005 tolerance on the stack. Also there is no way at all to assemble one and have a bullet hit a baffle, impossible. And I DO see a need to do disassemble. .22s shoot dirty, lots of unburned powder. Add that and the lead spatter and after a few thousand rounds the needs to be scraped off and you'll see why. I realize that everyone can't make their own so they have to buy a sealed can but I won't claim a sealed can is better because I really don't buy it.
 
Dr Dater of Gemtech recently answered an interview in Small Arms Review and this question came up. He said cleaning suppressors usually damages them more than just letting them get dirty.
 
Dr Dater of Gemtech recently answered an interview in Small Arms Review and this question came up. He said cleaning suppressors usually damages them more than just letting them get dirty
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Well the Gemtech site contradicts him then. From the Gemtech page:

All sound suppressors require some degree of maintenance if maximum efficiency is to be maintained. Those of our suppressors that are sealed are designed for maintenance and cleaning by immersion in suitable solvents. Suppressors that will not drain completely are designed for partial disassembly for maintenance. All suppressors manufactured by Gemtech come with detailed instructions for operation and maintenance, a practice pioneered by the original Automatic Weapons Company.
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Mine is 100% stainless steel. No damage comes from cleaning. Supressors MUST be cleaned from time to time or they won't work nearly as well. I'd also take info with a grain of salt when the source has an interest in promoting their product.
 
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