Super Blackhawk 44 mag base pin problem.

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Prof Young

New member
So, I have a Ruger Super Blackhawk 44 mag for which it has always been seriously hard to get the base pin in and out. Today I went to test out some hunting loads (Heavy bullet, lotta powder but all with in the safe limits on the charts) and I only got one shot off before the whole thing locked up. Had to use plastic mallet and brass rod to get the base pin out. With cylinder finally out I could, with relative east push the base pin back in (not through cylinder) and the gun cocked and the hammer and trigger worked with ease. Tried to put the cylinder back in and it was a STRUGGLE. Used lotta lube, plus plastic mallet again to get the pin through the cylinder. With it reassembled the cylinder is once again locked up. I'm starting to wonder if the base pin is bent. Am looking at the exploded parts picture to see if/how I can get the base pin all the way out to see if it is indeed bent.

Thoughts, ideas and comments welcome.

Life is good.
Prof Young
 
I don't know exactly what is going on,but if you need a hammer I'd say "Stop"

Don't force parts. Jiggle and wiggle them,? OK. But no beatings,please.
As the base pin is fully supported by the cylinder,its unlikely it could get bent.

If you have enough friction in the fit between the cylinder and the base pin to require a hammer,how would the cylinder rotate when you thumb the hammer?


I'm going to pause and look at my SBH a minute. I'll be back

OK.I open the loading gate,push the plunger and the base pin moves freely out of the cylinder.The cylinder will roll out the loading gate side.

Then I roll the cylinder back in,manipulate it a bit till the base pin finds the hole,(with the plunger pushed)then the base pin slips back home with finger pressure.No hammer needed.


However! there is a little crescent shaped clearance cut through the flange on the base pin,to make clearance around the barrel.

If you inadvertently rotate the base pin in the assy/diassy process,you no longer have working clearance between the base pin and the barrel,and sure enough,it will bind up.

Just study the base pin and how it moves for and aft ,without the cylinder.

rotate it a bit and make it bind up,gently.Rotate it back and see how that little clearance cut makes it free.

Observe and understand,which is exactly what I did to discover ths answer.

Not lecturing you,but to EVERYONE who tinkers with their guns....

Its true we tap a drift punch with a hammer to knock out a pin,etc.


But firearms parts are designed to be assembled/disassembled into their working relationships without force.You may have to compress a spring...a booger of a spring,but you almost never will need your hammer to put a part in place.

If you reach for one,stop! Try youtube,open a book,have a cup of coffee,breathe,relax,and look! Observe! See exactly how the sucker works.


If you can't do that,its OK. That's why God made Gunsmiths!. And mechanics,dentists,barbers,and surgeons.
 
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Roughedge,check my comment above.If the base pin was bent,it would have friction all the time in the cylinder.The cylinder would be difficult to turn assembled.The hammer would be hard to thumb.

IMO,removal of the base pin to check it is unnecessary.
 
Have you, by any chance put the base pin through the cylinder outside of the frame?

Ever clean the base pin hole in the cylinder?

Roll the pin on a flat surface to see if there is any visible wobble.

Clean pin and cylinder and frame. Ensure pin positioned with clearance cut up (aligned with barrel).

Assemble, using no force, no mallet, if it binds, CALL RUGER.
 
thanks and . . .

Thanks for the thought and comments. As noted in the OP this base pin has always been difficult to move in and out. And due to the design of the gun, the base pin does not come all the way out. The flange on the shell ejector rod is in the way. I haven't spent anymore time with it yet. Will get back to you all when I do.
Life is good.
Prof Young
 
Now get this!

Okay, so today I got the base pin all the way out. Had to take off extractor rod to do it. Pin goes through cylinder no sweat. Pin also goes through frame, without cylinder in place, no sweat. But put the cylinder back into the frame and IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN. Will be calling Ruger on Monday.

Life is good.
Prof Young
 
Your barrel didn’t move did it?That what happened to mine.Went back and reread you post doesn’t sound like that’s your problem when that happens the ejector rod works hard with or without the cylinder in.
 
Mine was the hunter with the rib easy to see.I would put the ejector on with out the screw and move the rod in and out when it moves easily see if the screw is lined up.
 
Thanks Wild Willy

Thanks, but I'm not sure I understand. However it's a mute point now as the gun is on it's way back to Ruger. I described the problem to the Ruger rep and she was mystified. I guess we'll see what happens.

Life is good.
Prof Young
 
Got an email from Ruger . . .

Got an email from Ruger. Gun will be back Tuesday. Guess we'll see then.
Life is good.
Prof Young
 
Pretty good turn around and . . . .

I sent the gun UPS on Monday and the following Tuesday it was back to me repaired. They replaced the base pin and latch assembly, ejector housing assembly, screws and adjusted the gate. New base pin does not have flange on the handle part. Base pin goes in and out much more easily and gun functions well. Now I have to learn how to hit what I'm aiming at, at 25 yards, lean to shoot some heavy duty ammo, and maybe I'll trust myself to handgun hunt again.

Life is good.

Prof Young
 
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