So I had great success with my Springfield 1911A1 mil-spec. Harrison retro TR ignition kit and XD hammer strut, XD thumb safety, and a colt sear spring. Shot 200 malfunction free rounds today but just wanted to ask, I have already adjusted the colt sear spring quite a bit forward and I am just not getting a stronger pull that i am after but I am just doing it by hand for the first time. Can I just use my factory Springfield sear spring, that gives me the pull i am after but with either sear spring the weapon passes all safety function tests, i am probably just not used to such a nice crisp pull. I fit the thumb safety and Xtreme duty trigger set screw no problem.
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SUCCESS!!
- Thread starter Gunslick
- Start date
Definitions are needed. The sear return spring in the 1911A1 is the left-most leaf (looking from the shooter's position) of the flat spring trapped by the mainspring housing. The mainspring is what drives the hammer forward. I am thinking that maybe that's what you are referring to, since trigger pull weight is affected.
If the trigger isn't firm enough, you can bend both left and middle leaves of the flat spring forward (gently), but the effects are different. The middle will increase first stage takeup, increasing total trigger force required, but not affect the second stage (sear coming off the hammer). The left will affect only the force needed to pull the sear off the hammer hook. There can be a little interaction, but that's the principle. Going to a higher power mainspring will also increase trigger weight, but it affects the required slide cycling effort, too.
Beyond that, if the trigger is still too light, you need to adjust the sear and hammer hook engagement angles, and that takes some skill and experience to get right. If you've not done that before, buy spares. I think I went through three sears and two hammers learning, so I recommend taking it to a gunsmith. Even if you do it yourself, having a gunsmith check out your early work is a good idea for safety reasons.
If the trigger isn't firm enough, you can bend both left and middle leaves of the flat spring forward (gently), but the effects are different. The middle will increase first stage takeup, increasing total trigger force required, but not affect the second stage (sear coming off the hammer). The left will affect only the force needed to pull the sear off the hammer hook. There can be a little interaction, but that's the principle. Going to a higher power mainspring will also increase trigger weight, but it affects the required slide cycling effort, too.
Beyond that, if the trigger is still too light, you need to adjust the sear and hammer hook engagement angles, and that takes some skill and experience to get right. If you've not done that before, buy spares. I think I went through three sears and two hammers learning, so I recommend taking it to a gunsmith. Even if you do it yourself, having a gunsmith check out your early work is a good idea for safety reasons.
I always use a trigger pull gauge to adjust the sear spring.
At least eight ounces on each of the center and left leaves, and adjusted equally.
Check this out: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=12535/GunTechdetail/2-lb-Trigger-Pull
At least eight ounces on each of the center and left leaves, and adjusted equally.
Check this out: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=12535/GunTechdetail/2-lb-Trigger-Pull
I did do it that way first. Produced a very light trigger pull but I only like super light pulls in my ars. Pistols I prefer 4.5 to 5lb. Which I did achieve with the wolff sear spring. Its got all the nice quality ignition components I wanted now. So now what to do next. How can I make it better because its pretty darn sweet now.