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Stupid Question: What does "Parkerized" Mean?
- Thread starter MLT
- Start date
Phosphate finish which is generally a little more durable than your normal hot blue finish. Your surface metal has to be rough or the parkerizing won't take. Learned this the hard way when I polished the bejezus out of an 870 receiver. Had to take it to the beadblaster afterwards and redunk it in the parkerizing tank. Never did that again.
The nice thing about parkerizing is that you can do it at home on your kitchen stove. Just don't use your regular stainless steel cooking pots (buy them used at a thrift store) and you can avoid an ugly domestic violence scene if your significant other doesn't catch cooking your parts!
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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt
The nice thing about parkerizing is that you can do it at home on your kitchen stove. Just don't use your regular stainless steel cooking pots (buy them used at a thrift store) and you can avoid an ugly domestic violence scene if your significant other doesn't catch cooking your parts!
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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt
The process was developed by a man named Parker, which is why I always capitalize "Parkerizing". It is used on military arms because it is durable, non-reflective and holds oil better than bluing to prevent rust. Bluing is controlled rust and does not hold oil as well. The downside is that Parkerizing also holds dirt.
Jim
Jim
MLT,
Thanks for asking. I've been wondering for years but have been too dumb to ask. Thanks to those that responded. I can add this to my small but growing defensive tool knowledge bank.
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So many pistols, so little money.
[This message has been edited by Tecolote (edited December 17, 1999).]
Thanks for asking. I've been wondering for years but have been too dumb to ask. Thanks to those that responded. I can add this to my small but growing defensive tool knowledge bank.
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So many pistols, so little money.
[This message has been edited by Tecolote (edited December 17, 1999).]
Daren Thompson
New member
How do you Parkerize at home? Can you explain this in more detail please.
Thanks
Daren
Thanks
Daren
This should really be moved to George Stringer's forum, but here we go...
Disassemble the firearm and bead blast all surfaces you want refinished. Do not touch blasted surfaces as you want to keep them free of oil.
I like putting the metal into a solution of hot water (warms it up) and also to ensure that it's degreased. For small parts, I put them into a stainless steel teaball (I have a large 2" tall one which is about 1 1/2" wide). This keeps you from struggling to pick up small parts which may drop out from your basket.
Next, in a stainless steel pot or tank, mix your parkerizing solution (available from numerous gunsmith suppliers) per instructions with distilled water (don't want additional chemicals from tap water to mess up your finish. If you're well/spring water is good, you can use that too). This is brought up to about 185-200 (the exact temperature escapes me - so read the instructions that comes with the parkerizing solution). Let the metal sit in the hot solution for 3-5 minutes.
Pull out and place into a separate neturalizing solution to stop the process. I also like to keep this hot as it promotes drying.
Dry and oil. Being old fashion, I allow it to cure by sitting for 24 hours.
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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt
Disassemble the firearm and bead blast all surfaces you want refinished. Do not touch blasted surfaces as you want to keep them free of oil.
I like putting the metal into a solution of hot water (warms it up) and also to ensure that it's degreased. For small parts, I put them into a stainless steel teaball (I have a large 2" tall one which is about 1 1/2" wide). This keeps you from struggling to pick up small parts which may drop out from your basket.
Next, in a stainless steel pot or tank, mix your parkerizing solution (available from numerous gunsmith suppliers) per instructions with distilled water (don't want additional chemicals from tap water to mess up your finish. If you're well/spring water is good, you can use that too). This is brought up to about 185-200 (the exact temperature escapes me - so read the instructions that comes with the parkerizing solution). Let the metal sit in the hot solution for 3-5 minutes.
Pull out and place into a separate neturalizing solution to stop the process. I also like to keep this hot as it promotes drying.
Dry and oil. Being old fashion, I allow it to cure by sitting for 24 hours.
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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt
Daren Thompson
New member
Thanks Gary I have an Old Savage 12 gauge I might try this on for practice.
Later
Daren
Later
Daren