Stuck Case

F

flashhole

New member
Picked up a nice set of CH dies for my 25-06.

Cleaned them real well and went about sizing cases.

I was using Imperial Die Sizing Wax and the first case went in and out as expected, no problem.

Second lubed case stuck and the shell holder pulled over the case head. Now what?

I ended up backing the decapping stem out as far as it would go but it could not be pulled from the die because the case neck was still fully inserted into the die.

I ran the die up into the press from the underside so the case head was sticking up through the threads on the press, took my cordless drill and started drilling larger and larger holes down through the flash hole. The press held the die securely with the lock ring tightened, much better than I could have done on the drill press.

I tried easy-outs as I was able to get a good bite on the brass but the case would not budge. I finally drilled a hole almost the same size as the OD of the case. This allowed me to re-insert the decapping assembly as far as it would go and with a pair of long nose pliers I removed the expander ball and the the decapping rod was pulled from the top of the die.

Pulling the decapping rod exposed the case neck. I sacrificed a drill bit that fit snuggly into the neck sizing area in the die. I ground it flat from the end that goes into the drill chuck. I did not have a set of drift pins so the drill bit was my only choice. The modified drill bit engaged the top of the case neck without going inside the neck, that's why I ground it flat.

Soaked the whole thing in PB Blaster for a few hours and went back at it. This time I had the die inserted in the press in the proper orientation.

Took the drill bit that I had ground flat and was able to drive the case out from the top with light taps from a small ball-peen hammer.

Cleaned the die again and resumed sizing cases without any additional problems.

Whole exercise was a PITA but I did not damage my die. Still can't figure out why it got stuck, the die was clean and the case was well lubed.
 
stuck up

I imagine this has happened to every reloader at one time or another.

Perhaps the shell was slightly out of spec or was not sufficiently lubed. I have been using Case Slick and find it to be excellent.

For case removal, I would remove the die as well as all the internal components.

With your drill, use a ¼-inch bit and drill completely through the primer hole until there is no resistance.

Using a ¼-20 tap, tap into the drilled hole using thread cutting media; when done, remove tap.

Use a ¼-20x1-inch carriage bolt and insert the head of the carriage bolt into the shell holder ram (remove the existing shell holder) and the bolt head should lock into place.

Raise the ram and start screwing the die into the press while immobilizing the carriage bolt. When the die, shell and bolt are screwed in as much as possible, lower the ram which should pull out the stuck case without damaging the die.
 
Easiest thing to do is got to the LGS and buy a stuck case remover!
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The easiest? A reloader with a few shop skills can make a stuck case remover. For the few that understand pushing and pulling the reloader with a few ship skills can make improvements in design over the commercial pullers.

F. Guffey
 
flashhole wrote:
I was using Imperial Die Sizing Wax...
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This is the first time I have ever heard of anyone sticking a case with Imperial Sizing Wax.

Glad to hear you were successful in getting it out and didn't damage the die.
 
With your drill, use a ¼-inch bit and drill completely through the primer hole until there is no resistance.

Using a ¼-20 tap, tap into the drilled hole using thread cutting media; when done, remove tap.
Click to expand...
Wrong. I will let some other machinist tell you why.
 
Not a machinist but that bit is too big for that tap.

I've been using Imperial for longer than I can remember on countless thousands of cases, it's the only brand lube I use. That was my first stuck case using it.
 
# 7 drill bit or 13/64" drill bit for 1/4" x 20 tpi tap. 7/32" for a larger tap hole with less than 75% threads.

Russ P
 
Wrong. I will let some other machinist tell you why.
Click to expand...

I have no ideal why reloaders are infatuated with drilling the primer pocket with the 1/4" drill but. My favorite drill bit is the 11/32" or 5/16" and my go to drill bit, the 3/8". WHY? For the thirtyish? time I want to get the primer punch/sizer ball assemble out of the way; there is no better way than to drill out the flash hole primer pocket to a diameter that will allow the assemble to drop out the bottom of the die, after that it becomes an 'and then moment' . And then I tap the hole.

It is not easy working with smiths that have had success, some of them have put a lot of time in to promoting products. One will not allow me to bring my no name lube, he only uses Imperial and Dillon. I do not care. I have had a few tuff to size/form jobs that I found impossible to make Imperial or Dillon to look good.

If there was a way to form the cases without me he would not have called me. The first thing I have to decide is 'can it be done?'.

F. Guffey
 
Thanks for the responses. My way worked but I see a different ways to skin the same cat.
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Just as long as you do not drill out the primer pocket with the same size drill as the major diameter of the tap you plan on using. :rolleyes:
 
while I have a few skills, I don't have any machine shop tools, not even a drill press.

For the few that understand pushing and pulling the reloader with a few ship skills can make improvements in design over the commercial pullers.
Click to expand...

If you can make a better mousetrap, SELL IT!!

OR, don't try to cheap out, buy an RCBS stuck case removal kit. You'll only need to buy one, once, and odds are good you'll never get to use it, again. Murphy is like that. :rolleyes:

The kit has a drill bit, a tap, a screw and a "cup". You'll need a drill, and the right size allen wrench. A tap handle is useful but a crescent wrench will work if you are careful.

The process is simple, back the expander ball as far out as you can. Use the provided drill to drill out the flash hole. Use the provided tap to tap the hole you just drilled. Then insert the (coarse thread) screw through the hole in the cup and screw it into the case. The cup will stop when it contacts the die body, holding the screw head a short distance away from the case. Keep turning the allen wrench, and the threads of the screw will pull the stuck case loose. IT's almost easier to do than describe.

I've done it, once, worked perfectly, have never had to do it again. Probably because I now have the tool for the problem.

Works on ANY brass case, and can be done holding everything in your hands.
 
It only happens once, happened to me after 20+ years. Ordered a brand new S type bushing die set from Redding, first case went in, on the down stroke ripped the case head right off. Called Redding sent the new die to them to remove & ordered a stuck case remover. Now when ever a case has a little resistance I back it out ,add a little more lube to be safe. Also saw it happen at the range with a fired case stuck in a chamber when the case head ripped off, someone had a stuck case remover for the chamber . Fed it in like a round & out came the case body, ordered one an I keep it in my range bag 308 cal.helped 3 shooters that had the problem. I'm sure they ordered one. Same as CC better to carry an hopefully you don't have to use it.
 
The stuck case remover for a case with the head ripped off is a different tool than what is used to remove a case stuck in a die with the head intact.

Same name though, "stuck case remover: ;)
 
I know , I have both just in case. Hope I never have to use them.
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There are stuck cases and there are case head separations with the case body stuck in the chamber and or die. I understand there are those that get dizzy and those that pass out at new and or different ideals. I remove case head separation cases with starter taps, a starter tap has a tapper that has at least 6 threads that do not make a full cut before making a full cut.

In the beginning I thought the old tapper/apex thing was important to understand.

F. Guffey
 
Head separations leaving the case body in the chamber can often be removed by inserting a tight, over-sized bristle brush & extracting. After a bit of time to cool, often the case body will contract enough to release its grip on the chamber walls.

FWIW
 
One thing about stuck case's. Seem's like no one stick's a second case! :-)
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I have stuck 5 out of the first 10 cases sized, a collector/reloader/shooter was using a 30/06 RCBS full length sizing die that belong to his father. o him the die seemed to have problems from the beginning. He sent the die set to me, after a lot of effort I trained that die to size 50 cases without sticking a case. He purchased another RCBS die set and used his father's die set as a back-up, I made a case puller and included it with the set of dies when I returned it.

I have a die set that is identical to the set belonging to the shooter in Bradford PA. My die set keeps ever case that is pushed into it. I have small base dies, I do not use them but I have them just in cases. The die that keeps the case, in my opinion is a small base die '+', I collect dies, if not for the collector part I would sent the die back to RCBS.

F. Guffey
 
F. Guffey
Just keep in mind, most of us don't have your expertise. I try to keep things simple for me. If I get a case jammed in a die , I'll call the die company , if they recommend to send the die for them to remove , I do. I can assure you it will never happen again. You can feel if a case is a little rough, better to let it down & add a little more lube. I have the average amount of tools but nothing to take the chance in putting a ding in a die or chamber. Easy for you , a nightmare for me.
I always enjoy reading your posts.
Chris
 
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