Stuck Case Remover Kit?

L

LBussy

New member
Has anyone tried multiple of the various offerings and formed an opinion on the stuck case extractor kits? I was thinking about the Lyman since it threads on the die instead of just sitting there - thinking it might be easier to use.

The Lyman stuck case remover kit will safely and easily remove stuck cases from sizing dies. Unlike other kits, all the tools that are needed are included. The kit includes a unique dual purpose threaded cap that screws over the end of the die. This cap acts as both a drill guide and a guide for the pulling screw. An extra-long hex wrench is included which provides plenty of leverage when removing stuck cases and also doubles as a handle for the tap wrench.
Click to expand...
From: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A3PNYZY

At $14.39 it seems like a good buy, especially given the completeness of the kit.
 
Ive used the RCBS and also the home-made version consisting of a bolt and stack of washers (since I owned drills and taps already). They worked equally well: Both simply tore the whole heads off the cases, leaving me to etch them out with copper solvent (KG-12 works well for this).

I strongly recommend you resist the temptation to simply try to pull the case out immediately, as I foolishly did. Drill and tap the case. Apply a liberal quantity of Kroil or other good penetrant to it. Put the extractor on and tighten it slightly, so it just starts stretching the brass. This is in order to help the Kroil work its way in. Then just let it sit that way for a couple or three days, refreshing the Kroil each day. Then paper towel off the excess Kroil and put it all in a plastic bag (to protect your food stuffs from fumes) and stick it in the freezer overnight and try to pull the case with it still freezing cold the next morning.
 
Reloaders insist on using 1/4" tap and die, I use the biggest diameter diameter the case head will allow, a good number is 3/8"

Once the reloader can manage to get their head around case pulling they can screw a bolt into the case head and use a nut on the bolt as a puller; who knows it could be something like using a pusher or a puller. The only case head I have ever pulled off was a case head that was coming off in the form of a case head separation.

When that happens I use a starter tap in the stuck case body. after a few turns I drive the case out with a brass rod.

F. Guffey
 
Unclenick said:
Ive used the RCBS and also the home-made version consisting of a bolt and stack of washers (since I owned drills and taps already). They worked equally well: Both simply tore the whole heads off the cases, leaving me to etch them out with copper solvent (KG-12 works well for this).

I strongly recommend you resist the temptation to simply try to pull the case out immediately, as I foolishly did. Drill and tap the case. Apply a liberal quantity of Kroil or other good penetrant to it. Put the extractor on and tighten it slightly, so it just starts stretching the brass. This is in order to help the Kroil work its way in. Then just let it sit that way for a couple or three days, refreshing the Kroil each day. Then paper towel off the excess Kroil and put it all in a plastic bag (to protect your food stuffs from fumes) and stick it in the freezer overnight and try to pull the case with it still freezing cold the next morning.
Click to expand...
Great advice, thank you for taking the time to detail it. I really hope I never have to do it, but I will print this out just in case.

F. Guffey said:
Reloaders insist on using 1/4" tap and die, I use the biggest diameter diameter the case head will allow, a good number is 3/8"
Click to expand...
I chewed on that for a few minutes ... I was thinking the 1/4" is to make sure the threaded portion of the case is as thick as possible? The case bottom is thinner towards the edges so maybe the 1/4" is a good general diameter to use? 3/8" in diameter on a thinner threaded portion might be a tossup.
 
so maybe the 1/4" is a good general diameter to use? 3/8" in diameter on a thinner threaded portion might be a tossup
Click to expand...

A shooter/reloader sent me a set of RCBS dies with a case stuck in the sizing die. The die was suspect from the beginning but I removed the stuck case and then proceeded to size my cases in his die. I stuck ever case I shoved into the die with my press and RCBS case lube, I changed cases, by the time I got past 50 cases the die started to act nice. The die was made by RCBS, it was a mistake but was not the first time I had worked with that make and model.

It was an extra small base die, By the time I sent it back to him he had replaced the die with a new one, he could have sent it back to RCBS. I also use 5/16 and 11/32" drills and taps.

After cutting the threads into the case head I wonder where would the case can go except against the chamber wall. The problem has to do with the same problem reloaders have with reaming the neck of the case. I ream case necks, I find it almost impossible to ream the neck with a reamer without case neck support. And then there is 'bump', I find it impossible to move the shoulder back with a full length sizing die that has case body support.

F. Guffey
 
I've used RCBS, Hornady, and improvised versions. They all work about the same.
Honestly... I think the washer stack, socket, tap, and matching bolt found in the garage is often the better option, since it can be tailored to the specific situation.


Reloaders insist on using 1/4" tap and die, I use the biggest diameter diameter the case head will allow, a good number is 3/8"
Click to expand...
That would depend upon the cartridge in question. A 3/8" tap ain't a gonna be a good idear for .223 Rem, for example.
And, a person attacking a stuck case should keep in mind the depth of the extractor cut (if present). If a person wants the best "bite" they can get with the threaded screw or bolt they're using for removal, then compromising the area inside the extractor cut isn't going to do them any favors.
 
I drilled one out one time. Tricky but I have spend 40 years doing stuff like that.

My US tap stuff was all at work.

Stuck Case tool more better. Right size (better) tap for the job vs the standard 1/4 inch.

If you do it home treatment you want top use fine threaded tap.
 
I had no ideal you guys were going to use those stuck cases again, when I go after them with a 3/8" drill I could use them again when I determine the distance from the rifling to the bolt face, and then (there is always a 'and them moment') I could thread a tube and use it for a cable guide.

F. Guffey
 
Hey unclenick thanks for sharing that trick about the freezer...makes so much sense, just never occurred to me. Few things more annoying than a truly stuck case.
 
I looked at how they work on line then simply went out to the shop and hillbilly engineered one. Worked fine. I believe I went with a 1/4 on the premise that if I somehow stripped it out I could always go up to the next size larger and tap it again. Kroil.never hurts either.
 
I have used an RCBS small base resizing die on all of my 30-06 brass and have had only one case stuck. It was my fault actually. I couldn't find my RCBS case lube and tried something else. Fourth case got stuck. Lesson learned the hard way (again).
 
I made up my own kit, 1/4 24 tap with proper sized drill bit, 1/4 in drive x 1/2 socket,1/4 x 1 1/2 cap screw with Allen wrench, grade 8 x1/4 flat washer. works great !!!
 
hdbiker said:
I made up my own kit, 1/4 24 tap with proper sized drill bit, 1/4 in drive x 1/2 socket,1/4 x 1 1/2 cap screw with Allen wrench, grade 8 x1/4 flat washer. works great !!!
Click to expand...
Certainly that's an option if you have the parts and pieces already. If you have to go to the store and root around for what you need, $14 is a fair price to have them delivered to your doorstep. I barely get enough time to reload, I don't want to lose a couple hours on a trip to the hardware store. With the gas mileage I get, it would be a wash anyway. :p
 
Last edited:
case remover

l traded the Allen head bolt for one l can get a box end wrench or a socket on. It is hard to get much leverage out of a Allen wrench.
 
muleman11 said:
l traded the Allen head bolt for one l can get a box end wrench or a socket on. It is hard to get much leverage out of a Allen wrench.
Click to expand...
Can you get enough torque in brass to make it necessary? I'd think the threads would strip out before you got that much umph on there.
 
Dillon makes the best dies, Lee would be #2, if you intend to stick cases. Neither require a stuck “case remover kit” to remove stuck cases. I still find a ounce of prevention, worth a pound of cure. Actually an ounce of a decent case lube is good for thousands of cases.
 
The Allen wrench is not a bad ideal, I use two wrenches; I hold the bolt while turning a nut on the bolt, I do not like the ideal of spinning the case, I want a straight pull; less effort, again I have stuck cases and I have never found one that that required long wrenches.

I have found cases that were difficult to remove, all of them were caused by very heavy loads.

F. Guffey
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top