Stripping varnish from factory "checkering"?

D

DBotkin

New member
I'm working on my first refinishing project, a 700 ADL stock apparently from the mid 1960s. It's got what appears to be varnish over the factory cheap checkering, which is actually little diamonds pressed INTO the wood, not grooved. The chemical stripper I've been using (BIX) is getting the finish off OK, but only about 30-40% of the varnish is coming out of that checkering. I've tried laying on a thick coat, letting it sit an hour, then scrubbing vigorously with a stiff nylon brush, both alone and with mineral spirits. It's pretty patchy still, and at this rate will take a month to get all that stuff scrubbed out.
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Is there a better stripper, a better way of doing this, or some other approach I should take? I've thought about cutting checkering grooves, following the existing pattern - but having never done it before, I'm not wanting to bite off more than I can chew. Plus this is not a museum piece.

My plan it to finish it with oil, have heard good things about Tru-Oil and Linspeed but haven't used them so I'm not sure how well that will work for me. I'm wondering at this point if the old finish remaining in the pits will even show; when the stock is damp you can't even tell it's there - only once it dries completely.
 
I would be tempted to recut it so the impressed diamond become the valleys and the meeting of the edges become the diamonds. It might be easier to leave the finish on while cutting. If that's not a good option try a toothbrush with your solvent. That's also a good way to reapply your next finish.
 
That is what I would have tried, like an old toothbrush or something and stripper. If it is a varnish, it might not show up under a tinted polyurethane or something like that, but I would think that an oil finish would not penetrate it and it would maybe show thru that. From the shape of the checkering that is pressed in, I think if you tried to recut it with a tool, there would be scarce wood left inside the checkering borders.
 
Fisherman, a big fat THANKS to you for that link!! I looked at that impressed checkering and thought it didn't look like it would be too difficult to convert it to regular checkering, but I figured it was just another one of my crazy ideas. Now that I've seen that, I believe my path is clear. I'm going to place an order with Midway or Brownell's for the stuff I'll need -- assuming I don't find something in my workshop that will do the trick, which is always a possibility.

Hey, now that I think about it, my son now has Dad's very nice wood carving tool set...
 
You are very welcome. I'm glad that came in handy. It will probably be easier to strip the old finish out and put on some BLO, tung oil or other prefered finish with a toothbrush THEN recut, THEN reapply the oil sparingly with a toothbrush or similar tool. The oil has hardeners which will help make for a cleaner cut with the checkering tools. I hope that made sense.
 
You may be letting the stripper set too long. You don't want the stipper to dry. Try applying a heavy coat and then 'work' it with a stiff tooth brush or other nylon brush after it sets for about half an hour. It may take several applications, but it should come off.
 
Well Ok then, put up a picture when you are finished recheckering it. I want to see what happens. Why I wonder is because checkering is raised diamonds and those stamped in are exactly opposite.
 
Tom, the high parts (ridges) become the diamonds tips. It doesn't actually sit any lower than where the impress starts. I have only seen pictures, but even in the closeups its not obviously lower.
 
OK, here's the first little section I did. It's the front diamond on the bottom of the forend. The larger portion right behind it isn't going as well... have a couple of different cutters on the way from Brownell's. The really nice thing is, I'm only 1 day away from them via UPS. The cutters and Lin-Speed will be here tomorrow.

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I'm partway through the re-checkering project. Here's what I have learned so far:

1.) The Dem-Bart S-1 tool recommended in the Shooting Times article is good for small areas, and if you have pre-cut a pretty well defined path as described in the article. Doesn't have to be a wide path, but it's got to be straight and well defined. Even then, on a longer path the sucker will wander pretty badly.

2.) Double row cutting heads work a lot better for long runs across the larger areas.

3.) This stuff is time consuming, but very rewarding when it goes well. It's also very frustrating when it goes poorly. I didn't order the jointer because of its cost, but I think I will now to fix some boo-boos.

4.) I figured the larger areas would be easier, and the very small areas like the little triangle right behind the bolt would be toughest. Nope, just the opposite.

5.) This is a very, very dangerous aspect of the hobby in which to become involved. Far more dangerous than reloading, even. I went to the local woodworking supply place to find a Forstner bit for pillar bedding, and was soon slobbering over a chunk of solid ebony (at $18 a pound) that would make a perfect fore-end cap. Of course, then I'd need a band saw to cut it, since it's hard as granite. And a bunch of new tools to shape & finish it... and there's that book on gun stock carving, and I think I could do that... you get the picture. At least when you reload, you can go shoot what you just produced. I fear I could spend all summer carving & checkering and never shoot the darn thing. I barely escaped with my wallet intact.

I am out of town and don't have a camera along but will post some more pics when I return home. Want some fun? Pack a stock in a rifle case, and try to convince the drones at the United ticket counter it's not a firearm.

sigh...
 
Addressing point #5. That's the problem with all things DIY for the person who's handy. From experience I can tell you, I never met a tool I didn't like. Stay away from cheap tools as they will lead you to buying a replacement good tool. Then you've spent not only for the cost of the good tool, but also the cost of the cheap one. Short circuit the process, go directly to the good tool. I never sell or loan my tools. Each tool represents a monetary savings on a job I've done. If I needed it once, I'll need it again. By about the third use, you have usually paid for the tool over what you would have paid someone else to do the job.
As you've already guessed, for the DIYer the real bugger in the process is time...
Nice job on the checkering, by the way.
 
I know what you mean about the tools. I own most of my expensive tools because they paid for themselves the FIRST time I used them. Finish nailer (wood floor installation), brad nailer (crown molding), table saw (front porch columns), chop saw (several decks now), reciprocating saw (tree trimming), tile saw (basement floor)... the list goes on and on.

Oh, and the tile saw IS for sale. God willing, I'll never lay another stupid bloody tile as long as I live.
 
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