Stripping the Metal

billygun

New member
Hello, I have a 1969 Winchester 94 that was given to me because, "I'm a gun guy". It was sitting in a friends garage for years and shows it. So I took it and thought I would refinish it. Maybe case harden the whole thing, or case harden and blue parts. So I contacted Classic Guns of Crete, Il. They will blue and case harden cheaply, but removing the old finish put the cost way over what I could pick up a used rifle in great condition. so how do I remove the finish easily? Thanks in advance.

BG
 
Without being able to see the Model 94 in question, my first instinct would be to reach for "Naval Jelly" to remove rust, then scrub with 0000 steel wool and degrease, then use a hot bluing solution.

I would do the work myself to save money.

Jimro
 
If the rust is superficial, you can do the "WD-40 and 0000 steel wool" technique, followed by degreasing and hot bluing. You could try cold blue, but in my experience it is an inferior finish.

Jimro
 
Billygun what are your expectations when the rifle is finished? If it were mine and I had some investment in finished product I would clean that metal down to "the white", which will take more than just 0000 steelwool and WD40.
When I take em down to the white I use various grits of emery cloth, nothing more abrasive then 150 grit, and I work my way up to the wet dry papers, and depending on the finish I want to end up with determines what grit I finish sanding with...
It takes some real elbow grease but when its done youll be happy.
 
The reason refinishing a post-64 Win 94 is so costly, is because they used a sintered graphitic steel receiver that did not respond well to bluing or other finish treatments. As such, Winchester iron-plated the receivers, so the plating could be blued. To refinish the receiver properly, it must be stripped, re-plated, and then finished. But... since the iron plating takes bluing differently than the steel parts attached to it, it takes some time to get the finish to match reasonably well.

You can't just hit it with some bluing remover, repolish, and reblue, like other rifles and parts.

With post-64 '94s, it's best to leave them alone, unless you have some emotional connection to the rifle, and don't mind dumping a bunch of money into them for minor cosmetic improvement.
 
Stripping the metal

Not to hijack the thread, but I have A Model 12 Winchester 20 gauge that was reblued by someone, and I don't like the way it looks. The blue is not the same shade as the factory blue on these shotguns, and is just unattractive, plus, the stock never was refinished, so nothing matches. Would the steel wool/oil method work, or should I try something else? I have read that a water/vinegar solution will remove blue when applied with a rag.
 
Naval Jelly is usually 75% phosporic acid and will remove bluing.

Kitchen grade white vinegar is 5 to 8% acetic acid.

Expect vinegar to take a lot longer than naval jelly.

Jimro
 
I have a couple of 94's that I parkerized. The one is a 1950's 94, the other a 80's Trapper.

I also had another 80's era Trapper parked when I broke the front sight off while cleaning, and had it replaced with a ramp, and ran into what FrankenMauser was describing when it came to rebluing the gun. They couldnt get the receiver to match and were at a loss. I told them to forget about it and just park it, and it was the best thing I did, or at least I think it was. Park isnt as pretty as the blue, but its a little more durable, and better for a gun that gets used.

This is the older 94 we did in my buddies garage when we were parking everything in sight.....

ry%3D400


Its an old pic with an old camera, if youre interested, I can get better ones.

As far as stripping the existing finish, depending on what kind of blue you want, it can require a lot more hand work, as the metal is usually polished bright before being blued. You can bead blast it, which is a lot easier, but the finish isnt a bright blue that most are used to, and it tends to look more black.

You also have to disassemble the gun to its smallest parts, to get a good job of it, which is something that usually adds to the cost. Youre not going to get a good job if you dont strip it and do it right, blue or otherwise.

The gun above was pretty beat up when I got it, and there was little finish remaining on the receiver from years of being carried there, as well as a good bit of light rust everywhere. I bead blasted it with glass beads, and then used a black phosphate park on it. The stock was cleaned up, but there is still a dark water stain at the butt. Its a great old Winchester, and has been my favorite since I cleaned it up. I really like the short little Trappers, but they dont have that old, Pre 64 Winchester look/feel.
 
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