Stripped stock turning brown

LightningLink

New member
I'm in the process of stripping my M48 Mauser stock to get rid of all the cosmoline and refinish it. I stripped it down with Simple Green and hot water. 10 minutes after I strip it and it starts to dry, it turns a nice dull grayish color (so far so good). However, the next day, it starts turning brown again in splotches.

Is this just the original oils coming to the surface, or is this cosmoline that leeched deep into the wood?

If this is cosmoline, do I need to keep stripping until it's all gone, or is a little okay?

Thanks for any advice,
LL
 
What you are seeing is cosmoline coming to the surface. May I recommend that you use dow oven cleaner for a real thorough grease removal?

Boil a large pot of water that wil be used for soaking the wood. Get the wood real wet and hot and spray it down with the oven cleaner. I recommend the stuff without the lye. Let the oven cleaner soak in for about 15 minutes, then rub the wood with synthetic steel wool firmly. You may have to repeat this process a few times, but the cosmoline will come out. Some have claimed that oven cleaner can cause a green tint to the wood. I have never experienced this, and it may be that the green is caused by the cleaners with lye.

Once you are satisfied, let the wood air dry for a day, and then lightly rub it down with some clean synthetic steel wool to remove the wood whiskers. After that, finish the stock per your preference. I prefer boiled linseed oil(mixed with a little paint thinner as a drying agent). I apply at least 5 coats with 24 hours between each coat. Each coat should be rubbed with synthetic wool, including the last one.

Let the last coat dry for a week. After that, apply a mixture of bees wax, boiled linseed oil and turpentine (mixed equally) and rub it in well. Then buff away and get a great satin finish that is both protective and beautiful.

Noban
 
Thanks Noban. I came across one of your previous posts about disassembling with the c-clamps ... excellent advice.

If you don't mind, I now a few specific questions:

1) How do I soak the wood? I don't have anything large enough to hold the entire stock, not even half of it. Is it as simple as slowly pouring the boiled water over the wood?

2) If I've already done my Simple Green treatment twice, should one cleaning with the Easy Off (oven cleaner) be enough?

3) How long can the metal that is imbedded in the stock go without oil before it will start rusting?

4) I have the BLO and thinner and can find turpentine, where does one find Bees wax? Is it in liquid form, or will it need to be melted?

Thanks in advance,
LL
 
Here ya go!

1) How do I soak the wood? I don't have anything large enough to hold the entire stock, not even half of it. Is it as simple as slowly pouring the boiled water over the wood?

A: I have an old cat litter container that is only deep as half the stock. I soak one end for about ten minutes, then flip it over. If you anticipate restoring future rifles, I recommend getting a similar bucket from a hardware store. It's a lot easier than pouring the water over the stock.

2) If I've already done my Simple Green treatment twice, should one cleaning with the Easy Off (oven cleaner) be enough?

A: It should be, but some of that cosmoline is deeply imbedded. A Russian M44 once required four applications of oven cleaner before I was satisfied! Don't be dismayed if your stock starts looking very bleached out. It will snap back to life when you apply the oil.

3) How long can the metal that is imbedded in the stock go without oil before it will start rusting?

A: As long as you are working on the stock and keeping it submersed, you won't have any problems with the metal rusting. Rusting will occur once you expose it to air. What I do is put a dab of Rig grease on all metal parts while the wood dries.

4) I have the BLO and thinner and can find turpentine, where does one find Bees wax? Is it in liquid form, or will it need to be melted?

A: For bee's wax, you can buy it at feed and tack shops, at hardware stores that sell plumbing supplies, or sometimes at sporting good/gun shops that sell archery supplies. Bee's wax is used on the bow strings. Also, there is no need to add the paint thinner to the wax mix.

What I do is melt the wax in the microwave in a glass jar and then add the other components and mix them up. The mix will cool and become more solid, like the texture of warm butter. Apply it sparingly with a clean cotton cloth; it goes on real nice. I usually wait at least 2-3 hours before I buff it out.

Good Luck!

Noban
 
There's also the old standby 'whiting'.
This is calcium carbonate, sold by Brownell's and some drug stores.
To use:
Mix the whiting with a non-inflamable volatile solvent like Triclorathane, to the consistancy of pancake batter.
Spread over part of the stock at a time. Heat with a heat lamp to bring the grease and oil to the surface, where it is absorbed by the whiting. Brush the grease soaked whiting off, and reapply as necessary. The whiting goes on pure white and turns all shades of brown and orange as it absorbs the grease.

This was used many years ago by stockmakers to clean stocks really clean. The advantages are you don't have to wet the stock, so theres no rust, it's fast, and you can turn a black stock back to it's original light brown.
 
Thanks guys. The grease is coming off slowly.

One last question, if somehow I miss some and go ahead and refinish the stock, what will happen? Will the cosmoline hurt anything if it bleeds through? Or will it just be a little discolored there?

I ask because it seems like the stock is completely grease-free, then two or three days later it starts bleeding again. I'm trying to be very patient, but it's starting to feel like a month long process.

Thanks again,
LL
 
It happens. Just remember that cosmoline is grease and when you add your finishing oils it will help disolve/dilute it. The small amounts (if any) that are left in your stock should be no problem.

Good luck with the project.
 
This is why I like the whiting. Instead of waiting for the grease to come the surface, the heat lamp actually makes the grease 'boil' to the surface, where it's absorbed by the calcium carbonate 'whiting'. You simple keep applying coats of whiting followed by the heat until all grease is removed. Using this method, you can get a stock 'bone dry' in short order, without the chance of later 'bleed out'.
 
Back
Top