I was reading an article in Aprils-Rifle Shooter,"Dressing up your stock. Since I'm not to much of a 'smith'(only do what I know I can't screw up). Looking for a little advise on a finish sealer. Now D.J. Marshall (who made it simple enough) advised using urathane for the final sealer. Couldn't help but wonder if anything else could be used, like an interior/exterior polyurathane? Any/all suggestions would be helpful.
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Stock finish
- Thread starter Alba
- Start date
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
One aspect of stock finish is whether you want a shiny surface, or non-reflective. If it doesn't matter, any exterior urethane or poly-urethane should do. I plead a certain amount of ignorance, here, but urethane is a stronger material than, say, varnish.
There are also some waxes which will fill the pores of the wood, and not be reflective. I have used those inside the forearm channel and the action-inlet in various rifles, with no effects due to varying humidity.
Keep asking around; check a Brownell's catalog...There are books on the subject...
Best luck, Art
There are also some waxes which will fill the pores of the wood, and not be reflective. I have used those inside the forearm channel and the action-inlet in various rifles, with no effects due to varying humidity.
Keep asking around; check a Brownell's catalog...There are books on the subject...
Best luck, Art
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
One aspect of stock finish is whether you want a shiny surface, or non-reflective. If it doesn't matter, any exterior urethane or poly-urethane should do. I plead a certain amount of ignorance, here, but urethane is a stronger material than, say, varnish.
There are also some waxes which will fill the pores of the wood, and not be reflective. I have used those inside the forearm channel and the action-inlet in various rifles, with no effects due to varying humidity.
Keep asking around; check a Brownell's catalog...There are books on the subject...
Best luck, Art
There are also some waxes which will fill the pores of the wood, and not be reflective. I have used those inside the forearm channel and the action-inlet in various rifles, with no effects due to varying humidity.
Keep asking around; check a Brownell's catalog...There are books on the subject...
Best luck, Art
Harley Nolden
Staff In Memoriam
If you are down to RAW wood and are ready to finish.
Use a very fine sand paper, dip the paper, using finger on smooth side, into the finish. In a circular motion, small area, lightly sand, the oil will become muddy and sticky. Re-dip and go to another area and so on.
Once the whole stock is finished, let it set over night. It will look like he double hockey sticks. In the morning, or when ever, use 0000 steel wool and remove the gunky looking stuff down to the wood. The wood will become a dull shine,
Now you can apply any finish you want to. In effect what you have accomplished is sealing the wood and filling the holes. I have found that this system eliminates the "feathering" process. Don't forget to mask the checkering,
HJN
Use a very fine sand paper, dip the paper, using finger on smooth side, into the finish. In a circular motion, small area, lightly sand, the oil will become muddy and sticky. Re-dip and go to another area and so on.
Once the whole stock is finished, let it set over night. It will look like he double hockey sticks. In the morning, or when ever, use 0000 steel wool and remove the gunky looking stuff down to the wood. The wood will become a dull shine,
Now you can apply any finish you want to. In effect what you have accomplished is sealing the wood and filling the holes. I have found that this system eliminates the "feathering" process. Don't forget to mask the checkering,
HJN