STI 1911 plunger pin protrusion?

Is this normal?

The plunger pin on the STI green frame 1911 protrudes several times the length of the plunger pin on other 1911(Kimber, Colt).

Green 1911 frame is STI.

SS 1911 frame is Kimber.

Matte black 1911 frame is Colt.

Manufacturer claims that it's within spec and normal.

The reason I'm asking is that I can't assemble the green frame 1911 w/o using punch, while I can easily put back together the other 2 1911 w/o tool(punch).

STI claims that it's w/in spec and that they can assemble it together w/o using tool.

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Don't worry, it's not that unusual. It will help to put that manual safety on "safe", it relieves pressure on the spring which puts pressure on both plungers. Goatwhiskers
 
It might not be unusual, but it is not right. There is no reason for such protrusion and it can be cut back to be the same as the Colt. It is simply a matter of people who think "spec" is a dirty word trying to get the customer to accept the idea that what is wrong is right. There is no reason a punch or other tool should be needed to install the slide stop.

I also note that their tunnel is too short; more of the "we don't need no steenking specs" attitude.

Jim
 
STI told me that I shouldn't change anything on the gun, otherwise it would affect the reliability.

THANKS for all the help/input!

REALLY APPRECIATE IT.

Thank you!
 
the dimension of the tube and hole is different. Tube is shorter and hole is bigger on this forged STI single stack gun(STI Lawman) compared to non-STI single stack guns.
 
A. How does it shoot / feed? Not broke? Don't fix it.

B. Provided the gun takes a standard slide stop measure from the slide stop pin hole to the plunger tip between frames to get a perhaps relevant read on where things are at...

C you say assemble with a punch? I assume you mean get the slide stop back in? You can swap plungers for under 10 bucks of what is really slick is to take a triangular file and cut a little v in the back of the slide stop to allow it to get started depressing the plunger in when you reassemble. Thread in gunsmithing section at 1911 forum has explanation and pics.

D. STI is a good gun.. Perhaps tighter than some this is not a bad thing!
 
Do a search for the Log man slide stop mod that was just mentioned in the last post. Once done your slide stop will slip right in easily. There is nothing wrong with your plunger. Don't mess with it. The easy way to insert a difficult slide stop is to use a thin piece of plastic or non marring material inserted between the plunger and the slide stop. A guitar pick works very well and cannot scratch your gun. A steel punch is too big to get in where it needs to go and can slip and damage your gun's finish. The slide stop needs to be able to push the plunger out of the way instead just hitting it like a brick wall and stopping. You need a slightly angled groove on the gun side of the slide stop.
 
it shoots good and I can assemble it with a punch.

Not sure if it's tighter than non-STI single stack but dimensions are slightly different...more so than b/w different non-STI single stack 1911.

RsqVet said:
A. How does it shoot / feed? Not broke? Don't fix it.

B. Provided the gun takes a standard slide stop measure from the slide stop pin hole to the plunger tip between frames to get a perhaps relevant read on where things are at...

C you say assemble with a punch? I assume you mean get the slide stop back in? You can swap plungers for under 10 bucks of what is really slick is to take a triangular file and cut a little v in the back of the slide stop to allow it to get started depressing the plunger in when you reassemble. Thread in gunsmithing section at 1911 forum has explanation and pics.

D. STI is a good gun.. Perhaps tighter than some this is not a bad thing!
 
thanks.

drail said:
Do a search for the Log man slide stop mod that was just mentioned in the last post. Once done your slide stop will slip right in easily. There is nothing wrong with your plunger. Don't mess with it. The easy way to insert a difficult slide stop is to use a thin piece of plastic or non marring material inserted between the plunger and the slide stop. A guitar pick works very well and cannot scratch your gun. A steel punch is too big to get in where it needs to go and can slip and damage your gun's finish. The slide stop needs to be able to push the plunger out of the way instead just hitting it like a brick wall and stopping. You need a slightly angled groove on the gun side of the slide stop.
 
I have 6 Springfields. On all of them, the slide stop cannot be inserted without using a punch. I know Kimbers can be easily reassembled without a punch.

2 things may be wrong. Either the plunger tube has a different internal dimension or the plunger itself is out of spec (the shoulder may be too short). You can pull out the plunger assy from your STI and put it in your Kimber just to see where the culprit is.

Hopefully the fix is a new plunger assembly. Otherwise if it really bothers you, then you can have an aftermarket plunger tube installed.
 
consensus on other forums is that the problem probably has to do with the tube.

Thanks.

BTW, Springfield 1911 that I've shot in the past didn't have this problem.
 
If you brought it to my shop I would shorten the plunger pin (or replace it) and modify the back side of the slide stop lug so that it smoothly pushes the plunger out of the way instead of simply pressing it against the side of the frame and requiring you to use some "tool" to get it in. Mass produced parts like the plunger pin or the tube cause this stuff. "OK, that sorta looks like a plunger pin. No, don't measure it. Stick it in there and call it good"
 
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