Stevens Model 87A 22lr Semi-Auto Rifle. (Reblued)

B

Baryngyl

New member
In another thread I mentioned I was having my Stevens 87A that I got from my Dad blued, well I picked it up on the 5th.
Below you will find pictures, both before and after photos.
I ended up paying $60.00 for the bluing and a used replacement butt pad.
All the work/cleaning/polishing/bluing was done at Carl's Repair in Oakville, Washington.

BEFORE
DSCF3807.jpg


AFTER
87A-blued-11.jpg


BEFORE
DSCF3817.jpg


AFTER
87A-blued-8.jpg



BEFORE
DSCF3804.jpg


AFTER
87A-blued-2.jpg


Looks like it is going to limit me to 6 photos in a post, so if you want to see more you can check out a lot more photos at http://s834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/Baryngyl/87A/

Next thing I plan on doing is getting the stock fixed up a bit.

Michael Grace
 
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Looks like they did a frst rate job! :D I'll have to write that place down, they're not far from me. I've been thinking about doing a bit of pawnshop trolling of late.
 
So that's what they are supposed to look like. EVery one I've seen for 50 years looks like the before pic. Good deal.

JT
 
I have a Montgomery Wards Model 87C that has some cheesy paint on the end of the stock, but it looks totally original. I picked it up for next to nothing with a cherry 870 Wingmaster that a coworker sold me when he moved to the Philippines. I have always been afraid to shoot it but it doesn't look all that bad for being like 70 years old.

I guess I need to haul it out of the gun safe and take a good look at it again.
 
Hoping to eventually pass it on to my first born that is interested in guns (if I ever find Ms Right and have kids), if not then I will leave it to a Nephew/Niece or a friend.

Even if I had to reblue it every 10 to 15 years it will be worth it.


Michael Grace
 
If it was mechanically sound and shooting well I'd have left it as is, has a little character. But superb worksmanship, and as you noted, it will become an heirloom.
 
Grab a 6-pack of coarse-grit sanding sponges from Harbor Freight Tools.
Hand-sand the stock until it's clean. Stain using ANYTHING BUT MINWAX.
Clearcoat with your favorite polyurethane (Minwax ok there) or Tru-Oil.

Reason I say don't use Minwax, it's the cheapest stain on the market...horrible stuff.
You usually have to use a separate wood conditioner, which is already in High Quality stains.

If you've ever used quality stains, you quickly discover why they are so much better than Minwax.
General Finishes, Old Dad's, Wood You brand, Formby's...are all high-quality.

I equate Minwax stains to bulk Remington Golden Bullets...
you'll get a few good shots off, then the problems start ;)
 
For working stocks (not show pieces) I've had my best luck using Citristrip to remove the old finish. Light sanding to remove the scratches. NO stain. Minwax brand Tung Oil finish as a coating. The Minwax Tung Oil Finish is really just a wiping varnish. It takes about 3 or 4 light coats to build up a nice hard finish. You wipe it on with a folded up piece of cheese cloth and let it dry for 24 hrs. Flood the first coat pretty heavily and wipe it down after letting it soak for a few minutes. When dried overnight, rub it down with some steel wool. Blow off the dust and recoat.
 
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